Purchasing a Re Released Bruiser and have questions regarding Electronics

[johnfm3]

As the subject says, I am getting ready to purchase a new Bruiser and looking at what electronics I want to buy.

What I seem to be having a hard time locating is the Motor Spec's. I remember the original having a unknown 750 (I think) size motor. And I am under the impression that the new Re Released Bruiser has a 540 size brushed motor.

What I am thinking of purchasing is a Tekin FX-R ESC and Tekin Brushed 35T motor. This is a setup I have had good luck with in my Axial SCX-10. I can not find any conclusive information that the Tekin 35T motor will fit, or that the 35T is big enough for the job (aka should I buy a Tekin 45T or 55T). Currently I find a 5000mah 2s lipo does good enough for my needs, though could consider a 3s if needed for moving the bruiser.

For the TX/RX, I am looking at purchasing a Tactic TTX650 6ch TX with a 2 pack of Tactic TR624 receiver's (one to be installed in my SCX-10). I know 6 ch is abit much, but I have reasons for wanting it.

The other thing I am kind of tossed on is how much power does my Steering servo need to be. I have recently bought my first 400 oz Savox servo for my wraith, but concerned that the power may break a steering component on the bruiser. Are there any recommendations? I am guessing the shifting servo can be light duty.

Finally, I am looking at a light kit. The only thing I don't want is for the Turns to blink every time I turn the wheel as that's not realistic. Would like headlights, taillights, markers, reverse lights, and blinking 4ways. Does anyone have any suggestions on this?

Thanks for looking at this thread and any feed back which can be provided.
John

[redjones]

Your tekin 540 motor will fit just fine. I believe the silver can Tamiya motor is a 27t. I even installed a traxxas 12t Titan motor and it worked great. I use simple traxxas servos in my Bruiser and never had an issue. I am really pleased with my rc4wd light kit.

Hope this answers your questions.

[johnfm3]

Originally Posted by redjones

Your tekin 540 motor will fit just fine. I believe the silver can Tamiya motor is a 27t. I even installed a traxxas 12t Titan motor and it worked great. I use simple traxxas servos in my Bruiser and never had an issue. I am really pleased with my rc4wd light kit.

Hope this answers your questions.

I think it does. Thanks.
Given what your saying, I think I will go with the Tekin 35T or maybe the 30T hand wound brushed motor.

Regarding the traxxas servo's, I am guessing the blue 2056 waterproof servo's for the EMaxx would be a good choice.

I saw the light kit. The only thing I am concerned about is that it advertises that the blinkers flash when the wheel turns. And that's something I don't want. But that is something I can look into. Axial has a basic light kit which turns on head lights and tail lights as well which I may just go with and for go the extra features for now.

I would be very interested in chatting with you on how you did your lighting electronics if you don't mind. I am buying this as my house warming gift to myself in the end of July. So I hope to start on this sometime in Aug.

Thanks for your feed back.

[johnfm3]

Originally Posted by redjones

Your tekin ....

Hope this answers your questions.

BTW: What are you using for a battery? Is a 2s enough or should I really consider a 3s? And do you run a separate battery for the lights?

[redjones]

Pm'd you

[pook]

I'm using a spectrum dx4s and just traxxas servos for shifting but a savox for steering, 35t tekin and a hobby wing esc and a 5200ma 2s lipo

[johnfm3]

Originally Posted by pook

I'm using a spectrum dx4s and just traxxas servos for shifting but a savox for steering, 35t tekin and a hobby wing esc and a 5200ma 2s lipo

Which Savox Servo? I would like to see the spec's.

[pook]

I can't remember specks but it was the water proof one with 208 oz of torque, and I moved the servo to the front and it works fine, I did the rc4wd hex conversion, but I think I'm gonna mod some vanquish axles


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[johnfm3]

Originally Posted by pook

...and I moved the servo to the front and it works fine...

Can you please explain this, any pictures? I was planning on setting my bruiser up stock.

[johnfm3]

It is done. I signed papers on a house yesterday and last night purchased the items needed for to build a Bruiser.

The parts List looks as follows
Tamyia Bruiser
Tactic 6ch Transmitter
Tactic 6ch Receiver
Traxas 2056 Waterproof Servo for shifting
HiTec HS 5646WP Waterproof servo for steering
Tekin Crawler Brushed 40T Hand Wound motor
Tekin FX-R Brushed ESC
Castle Creations BEC
Duratrax 3s 5000mah soft case battery

On top of those items, I have also purchased a servo programmer and a tekin hotwire since I will now have 3 FX-R ESC's.

The only question of concern is will I want the 3s lipo battery or will a 2s lipo be good enough. I can always grab the 2s out of my wraith for the bruiser and use the 3s in the wraith.

Another thing I am really considering now... I have seen alot of people put a lot of effort into painting the body following the Box Art based on the blue paint job. But I have seen some white bodies which I think might have been another option and I really like the look. I am not quite sure what I am going to finally decide, any feed back would be welcomed. I am really split on this.

[johnfm3]

Ok, question regarding BEC's

Based on the electronics package I have selected above using the Tekin FX-R esc and a CC BEC, if I choose to run a 2s lipo will my servo's and receiver still receive the 5v on 2s like they will on 3s? Or do I need to change the BEC settings prior to running 2s?

It looks like the BEC (LXSWL3) I have chosen is rated for a input voltage of 2s thru 6s, and a default output voltage of 5.1v.

John

[johnfm3]

So what have others used to lubricate the moving parts during assembly?

[johnfm3]

So it looks like the kit comes with its own lubricant and thread lock. I have spent the last 2 days, roughly 1 hr a day after work, building this model. I am only thru step 4. I can see how building this can take a long time.

[johnfm3]

Ok, I need help understanding the King Pins

Why are the king pin bushings so long? They stick above the surface of the knuckle about a good 1/8 of an inch. Are these to be ground down to match inside of the knuckle? What about adding a small spacer to the outside to take up the slack?

Thanks,
John

[johnfm3]

Since moving into the house, I have been getting some time to build on the Bruiser. A week ago over the weekend, I had it fully assembled and able to be tested. As of this last weekend, I have finished everything except the one thing I fear the most, Body Work.

I have a few things to note
Regarding 3s lipo on this RC: I ran the Tekin FX-R speed controller with a 40T hand turn motor and a 3s 5000 mah soft shell battery. I do not regret it. With this setup, I had to run a Castle Creations BEC for 3s. I did program the ESC so it only had 30% reverse speed. Currently the throttle curve is a linear line, which I will be adjust to a less aggressive curve. At full speed in 3rd gear, its not uncontrollable. Though I am considering reducing the max speed of the ESC.

Front hubs: I am noticing some slop in the front hubs already. Its alittle upsetting, but may just mean it becomes a shelf queen.

Servos: I am not happy with the traxxas 2056 servo's I bought. I really wish I would have bough hi-tech waterproof servos. I pulled out my programmer thinking I could program them to find out its not possible. So the rotation of the servo is too long which ends up making use of the servo saver. But I would much rather be able to program the servo's stopping points so it can not go past and add un needed pressure against items such as the tranny. So those will be coming out.

Another item I will be looking at is the grub screw which holds the rear drive line to the axle input. I may see about adding a dimple to the input shaft where the grub screw sets. I have already had to re install that 2 times. this time I used blue lock tight.

I will have more in the coming time... No decision has been made on the paint. Tossed on blue or white. With either color, I will be using the stickers.

[johnfm3]

so I have been working on this abit more since my last post. I have opted to purchase a donor body to run till I have completed the original Toyota body. So I bought a Proline Jeep Comanche body. Pictures to come the Tues following the labor day weekend.

John

[johnfm3]

Ok, so anyone who has built a Bruiser knows how painful it is. This thread was not much of a build process as there are plenty of those. More of my implamentation of how decided it should be built for me. Really only in the electronics selection. Including my woes and learning curves. One I have 14 hrs into building the chassis roughly, and now I am at the scary part. The body. This is where I really want to just pay someone to do it for me. So much so that I bought a spare cab incase I really screw up. Figure if I get it right the first time, the second cab can be given to my son.

During all this, I had recently bought a house and after moving been spending much time unpacking and trying to locate where things have been placed. So I have not had any time to really dig into the body. Thus I did the quickest thing possible, I bought a Pro-Line Jeep Commanche body. I already own a Cherokee body on my SCX-10. So this was the logical next step.



This is completely temporary so I can start really using this RC while I start the body work on the Toyota cab. I have body post extensions coming in the mail tomorrow. That will allow me to lift the body alittle bit so my tires wont rub.

[OSRC]

Originally Posted by johnfm3

Servos: I am not happy with the traxxas 2056 servo's I bought. I really wish I would have bough hi-tech waterproof servos. I pulled out my programmer thinking I could program them to find out its not possible. So the rotation of the servo is too long which ends up making use of the servo saver. But I would much rather be able to program the servo's stopping points so it can not go past and add un needed pressure against items such as the tranny. So those will be coming out.

Probably a late response, but not a problem with servos at all, save yourself some $$.

Your radio should have end point adjustment somewhere on it - that controls how far the servo throws. Read up and adjust accordingly.

OR plan B

Go with a mechanical solution - if possible move the ball ends closer to the center of the servo spline. The further out they are are from the spline, the farther they travel.

[johnfm3]

Originally Posted by OSRC

Probably a late response, but not a problem with servos at all, save yourself some $$.

Your radio should have end point adjustment somewhere on it - that controls how far the servo throws. Read up and adjust accordingly.

OR plan B

Go with a mechanical solution - if possible move the ball ends closer to the center of the servo spline. The further out they are are from the spline, the farther they travel.

Thanks for the feedback. As much as I understand the reasoning behind your suggestion, I more inclined to purchase the programmable servo's so that no matter what the radio does the servo is set and wont change. Or if I decide to change radios, I don't have to worry about re setting those end points. The other benefit was that I can program the center line to be in second gear and not have to worry about trimming as much. These were things which were important to me, and guided my buying decisions. Not the only method, but my method.

[johnfm3]

So I am looking at new wheels for my bruiser. RC4wd TrueScale Series bruiser beadlocks.

$130 for a set of 4 with hub adapters

Truescale Series Bruiser Beadlock Wheels

Has any one ran as set of these? Whats your thoughts?

John Moore