RCCrawler Forums

Gozer · 05-27-2008, 06:05 PM

I'm building a clod based rock crawler. Using integy locked axle assemblies under and ESP clodzilla 4 chassis. I'm using Proline 2.2 bead locks with proline Moabs. I went to mount the wheels to the Axle's and the stub shaft has a smaller Dia. than the wheel. Do I need an adapter, if so what type.
I'll post some pic's when I figure out how to do it.

CD13 · 05-28-2008, 06:17 AM

Shouldn't need an adapter,drive the wheel nut down on the wheel and it will sandwich the wheel between the hex and nut.

CPE MT · 05-28-2008, 06:38 AM

The brass drive hex is what holds most of the stress between the wheel/axle anyway. If the axle shaft is smaller, you should still be able to mount your wheels. If it's slightly larger, just open up the hole in the wheel to match.

I'm not sure when using 2.2 wheels if the axle is threaded ennough to allow the wheel nut to bottom out on the wheel, or if a spacer is required between the wheel and the wheel nut to ensure proper torque is applied to the wheel though.

LAV25 · 05-28-2008, 08:29 AM

If the wheel nut, as Mr. Crawford suggested, doesn't bottom out, use an old Tamiya axle bushing (I think it is called an 1150, but I might be mistaken, whatever size Tamiya uses as their standard) as a spacer. Not my own trick:-(, I found it somewhere on this site, just don't remember where offhand.

Gozer · 05-28-2008, 08:40 AM

Yeah I'm useing the 2.2 wheels. I'll find that spacer or something that works. Thanks alot guys.

jagg · 05-28-2008, 09:53 AM

I've used these to solve the spacing problem on my 2.2 Clod.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXN060&P=7

Gozer · 05-28-2008, 11:10 AM

Thanks Jagg just placed an order for those.

Gozer · 05-28-2008, 11:14 AM

Oh another question I have is I need a set of shocks. Full drop is 105mm Full stuff is 75mm and static hight is 91. I need just a wee shorter than the 105mm because of the cantilever setup, the suspension might lock at full drop. so say 103 to 104mm. Do anyone have any suggestions? This is for use on an ESP clodzilla 4 chassis.
Thanks for any suggestions

CD13 · 05-28-2008, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gozer

Oh another question I have is I need a set of shocks. Full drop is 105mm Full stuff is 75mm and static hight is 91. I need just a wee shorter than the 105mm because of the cantilever setup, the suspension might lock at full drop. so say 103 to 104mm. Do anyone have any suggestions? This is for use on an ESP clodzilla 4 chassis.
Thanks for any suggestions

But some tubing inside the shocks and limit the travel

Gozer · 05-29-2008, 10:24 AM

When measuring shocks do go EYE to EYE or is the length of the shock body and the rod?
Thanks Tony

Grizzly4x4 · 05-29-2008, 10:43 AM

Eye to eye.

Shocks made for a T Maxx or E Maxx are about 4" so that's 101.6mm if that close enough.

I have had great luck with these Hot Bodies shocks and they are decently priced.

Traxxas big bores work well. Don't use the Traxxas ultra shocks, they leak horribly.

For springs I use Losi's as seen below. They fit well on the Traxxas and Hot Bodies shocks and give you some spring rate options. www.stormerhobbies.com carries them.

Gozer · 05-29-2008, 01:17 PM

Thanks griz i bought the Hot Bodies one's but a different part number. According to Tower these are upgrades. Part # 25010. I'll have to get some pics up soon. Thanks to every who has answered my questions.

Gozer · 05-29-2008, 04:03 PM

Here are some pic's of my chassis.
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...s/Chassis2.jpg
This is the main Support for the links. In the picture you can see the L bracket. I made new ones to remove the sway bar holes.
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...werchassis.jpg
This a pic of the first mock up of the chassis.
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...0cars/Axle.jpg
A pic of the Integy axle with the links attached.
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...rs/Chassis.jpg
Here is a pic of the lower chassis all set up and waiting for the upper chassis.
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...stcomplete.jpg
Here is the completed chassis minus the shocks.
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w.../Beadlocks.jpg
This is what I'm running for wheels and tire's they are ProLine Moab 2.2's and ProLine Bead Locks.
Tell me what you think!! Thanks and Later

jagg · 05-29-2008, 09:08 PM

WOW......That's a whole lot of Integy BLING. One of the first things I would reccomend is to get rid of the steering limiters on the knuckles.

Still have no idea why thet even machined them this way.

I would also move your upper links to the top mount and move your lower links to the top of the axle C. You'll need make new upper links, but it will give you better ground clearance.

Gozer · 06-02-2008, 07:14 PM

Well if your thinking about buying these Axle's from Integy. Be prepared to have to do some work. Those fancy links are useless. Mine were too long, leaving me with toe out. The end links they us limit vertical travel.

Plus you'll need a 4mm .70 pitch Die as the outer Axle have a coating on them. Which keeps the nut's from threading on. Looks like I will be making new link's.

Gozer · 06-05-2008, 01:18 PM

What is your guys suggestion for the motor mounts. Use the Integy mounts http://www.rcslot.com/pc-radio-contr...NTC22733S.html Or the New Era Models part http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?part_id=2733

Your help will be greatly appreciated.

Grizzly4x4 · 06-05-2008, 02:21 PM

I'm not a big Integy fan. I'd recommend:

http://www.tcscrawlers.com/RcGuy-Adj...r-p-16168.html

jagg · 06-05-2008, 02:24 PM

Be careful with the Integy mounts. They do not come with any hardware, and the last ones I ordered were not counter sunk for the motor screws. Definitley not impressed.

CPE MT · 06-05-2008, 04:34 PM

The Intey mounts are fairly thick, and may require the use of extended pinions in order for them to mesh properly with the gears.

We also offer motor mounts for the Clod: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47958

Gozer · 06-05-2008, 06:07 PM

Is the price still $20, if so do you take pay pal?

Thanks Gozer

05-27-2008, 06:05 PM	#1
Gozer Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2008 Location: Franklin Posts: 263	A little Help with my Clod. I'm building a clod based rock crawler. Using integy locked axle assemblies under and ESP clodzilla 4 chassis. I'm using Proline 2.2 bead locks with proline Moabs. I went to mount the wheels to the Axle's and the stub shaft has a smaller Dia. than the wheel. Do I need an adapter, if so what type. I'll post some pic's when I figure out how to do it.

05-29-2008, 10:43 AM	#11
Grizzly4x4 PapaGriz Yo Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: In the garage building the wife a crawler Posts: 13,137	Eye to eye. Shocks made for a T Maxx or E Maxx are about 4" so that's 101.6mm if that close enough. I have had great luck with these Hot Bodies shocks and they are decently priced. Traxxas big bores work well. Don't use the Traxxas ultra shocks, they leak horribly. For springs I use Losi's as seen below. They fit well on the Traxxas and Hot Bodies shocks and give you some spring rate options. www.stormerhobbies.com carries them. Attached Images

05-29-2008, 04:03 PM	#13
Gozer Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2008 Location: Franklin Posts: 263	Here are some pic's of my chassis. http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...s/Chassis2.jpg This is the main Support for the links. In the picture you can see the L bracket. I made new ones to remove the sway bar holes. http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...werchassis.jpg This a pic of the first mock up of the chassis. http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...0cars/Axle.jpg A pic of the Integy axle with the links attached. http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...rs/Chassis.jpg Here is a pic of the lower chassis all set up and waiting for the upper chassis. http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...stcomplete.jpg Here is the completed chassis minus the shocks. http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w.../Beadlocks.jpg This is what I'm running for wheels and tire's they are ProLine Moab 2.2's and ProLine Bead Locks. Tell me what you think!! Thanks and Later Last edited by Gozer; 05-29-2008 at 04:12 PM.

05-28-2008, 06:17 AM	#2
CD13 Holmes Hobbies Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: No Where Posts: 2,751	Shouldn't need an adapter,drive the wheel nut down on the wheel and it will sandwich the wheel between the hex and nut.

05-28-2008, 06:38 AM	#3
CPE MT RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Home of the ORIGINAL Terminator chassis Posts: 1,252	The brass drive hex is what holds most of the stress between the wheel/axle anyway. If the axle shaft is smaller, you should still be able to mount your wheels. If it's slightly larger, just open up the hole in the wheel to match. I'm not sure when using 2.2 wheels if the axle is threaded ennough to allow the wheel nut to bottom out on the wheel, or if a spacer is required between the wheel and the wheel nut to ensure proper torque is applied to the wheel though.

05-28-2008, 08:29 AM	#4
LAV25 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Osaka, Japan Posts: 425	If the wheel nut, as Mr. Crawford suggested, doesn't bottom out, use an old Tamiya axle bushing (I think it is called an 1150, but I might be mistaken, whatever size Tamiya uses as their standard) as a spacer. Not my own trick:-(, I found it somewhere on this site, just don't remember where offhand.

05-28-2008, 08:40 AM	#5
Gozer Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2008 Location: Franklin Posts: 263	Yeah I'm useing the 2.2 wheels. I'll find that spacer or something that works. Thanks alot guys.

05-28-2008, 09:53 AM	#6
jagg Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: where fear and common sense don't get in the way Posts: 451	I've used these to solve the spacing problem on my 2.2 Clod. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXN060&P=7

05-28-2008, 11:10 AM	#7
Gozer Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2008 Location: Franklin Posts: 263	Thanks Jagg just placed an order for those.

05-28-2008, 11:14 AM	#8
Gozer Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2008 Location: Franklin Posts: 263	Oh another question I have is I need a set of shocks. Full drop is 105mm Full stuff is 75mm and static hight is 91. I need just a wee shorter than the 105mm because of the cantilever setup, the suspension might lock at full drop. so say 103 to 104mm. Do anyone have any suggestions? This is for use on an ESP clodzilla 4 chassis. Thanks for any suggestions

05-29-2008, 10:24 AM	#10
Gozer Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2008 Location: Franklin Posts: 263	When measuring shocks do go EYE to EYE or is the length of the shock body and the rod? Thanks Tony

05-29-2008, 01:17 PM	#12
Gozer Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2008 Location: Franklin Posts: 263	Thanks griz i bought the Hot Bodies one's but a different part number. According to Tower these are upgrades. Part # 25010. I'll have to get some pics up soon. Thanks to every who has answered my questions.

05-29-2008, 09:08 PM	#14
jagg Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: where fear and common sense don't get in the way Posts: 451	WOW......That's a whole lot of Integy BLING. One of the first things I would reccomend is to get rid of the steering limiters on the knuckles. Still have no idea why thet even machined them this way. I would also move your upper links to the top mount and move your lower links to the top of the axle C. You'll need make new upper links, but it will give you better ground clearance.

Sponsored Links

06-02-2008, 07:14 PM	#15
Gozer Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2008 Location: Franklin Posts: 263	Well if your thinking about buying these Axle's from Integy. Be prepared to have to do some work. Those fancy links are useless. Mine were too long, leaving me with toe out. The end links they us limit vertical travel. Plus you'll need a 4mm .70 pitch Die as the outer Axle have a coating on them. Which keeps the nut's from threading on. Looks like I will be making new link's.

06-05-2008, 01:18 PM	#16
Gozer Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2008 Location: Franklin Posts: 263	What is your guys suggestion for the motor mounts. Use the Integy mounts http://www.rcslot.com/pc-radio-contr...NTC22733S.html Or the New Era Models part http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?part_id=2733 Your help will be greatly appreciated.

06-05-2008, 02:21 PM	#17
Grizzly4x4 PapaGriz Yo Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: In the garage building the wife a crawler Posts: 13,137	I'm not a big Integy fan. I'd recommend: http://www.tcscrawlers.com/RcGuy-Adj...r-p-16168.html

06-05-2008, 02:24 PM	#18
jagg Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: where fear and common sense don't get in the way Posts: 451	Be careful with the Integy mounts. They do not come with any hardware, and the last ones I ordered were not counter sunk for the motor screws. Definitley not impressed.

06-05-2008, 04:34 PM	#19
CPE MT RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Home of the ORIGINAL Terminator chassis Posts: 1,252	The Intey mounts are fairly thick, and may require the use of extended pinions in order for them to mesh properly with the gears. We also offer motor mounts for the Clod: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47958

06-05-2008, 06:07 PM	#20
Gozer Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2008 Location: Franklin Posts: 263	Is the price still $20, if so do you take pay pal? Thanks Gozer

RCCrawler Forums

Thread: A little Help with my Clod.