RCCrawler Forums

swisherteets · 10-23-2008, 11:32 AM

ok so i am look for some advice on the link positioning/length size on a clod tuber build than i am working on.

As a side note to Dorkstar I couldnt wait for your chassis to come out on the market so I had to build one of my own. They say immitation is the sincerest form of flattery or some such saying :-p I just wanted to be sure that credit is given where credit is due

so the question is will these tube lengths/angles be ok or should i do my absoulte best to get them idetical in size. I supose instead of using the simple round bar style four link mount i could change it up to help get them more parralel and equal length or are they close enough that i just shouldnt bother

thanks for any and all help

(I apologize for the cad model being a little rough its just a fast down and dirty model
and I am sorry to anyone who would like a copy of the file but due to it being so close to dorkstars i wouldnt feel comfertable giveing it out)

rockhead · 10-23-2008, 07:54 PM

Hey, it looks good to me. I was inspired by the Dorkstar build too and brazed a frame together. I recall reading that it's best to keep the upper and lower rods parallel, you may want to research that. It looks like you have the front rods shorter than the rear rods, I did read something about a 60/40 layout, but for mine I kept it 50/50. I thought maybe equal articulation best. My frame is made out of quarter inch brake line, looks good at the 2.2 scale. Don't forget to follow the size rules for eather 2.2 or super class.

swisherteets · 10-23-2008, 08:07 PM

yea I am making mine out of 3/16 as that is what he made his out of and it is more than strong enough i think.
I am thinking that all i need to change up how i am gonna mount the top links so that they arefurther foward and a lower mount position
as far as size rules right now i am not worried.
I live in in south west NY no one does anything here so its just for me to take out and mess with on my own.
the largest group of rc in the area is carpet oval.... sigh i need to move

rockhead · 10-23-2008, 08:36 PM

Good luck with the build. I'm down in VA and will have to travel about an hour south to compete. The first place that I took my truck out on the rocks was Long Lake NY up in the Adirondake park. Post a pic when your done.

bullet1231 · 10-26-2008, 09:59 PM

what part of va? im in sterling, maybe we can hook up and go to a spot

KnutKase · 10-27-2008, 05:04 AM

I think I would recommend making the lower links at least as long as or longer than the upper links to try and preserve some sort of anti-squat geometry. It may not be as important on a rig with no drive shafts, but on a full size rig you do not want the rear axle housing to rotate that way as the suspension compresses, also it would make for horrible amounts of bump-steer when the front end kingpin inclination changes like that...

swisherteets · 10-27-2008, 06:13 AM

hmmm ok thanks for the help.
I have actually put this build on hold for now. I have the chassis nearly finished up however when I went to figure out all the needed parts to get the clod axles up to the quality i wanted (jp's custom knuckles integy tubes, cvd's adapter, and so on) I then realized how rediculously overpriced most things were, though i understand why they are justified to be the prices, being an engineer i know what tooling costs can be and i know that those costs must be absorbed into part prices and with relatively low volume of sale compared to other rc manufacturerers products means higher prices. I am more than willing to pay for them but until i have the money to burn i bought an axial and a dig, cvd's and tires and some other stuff for less than what it was gonna cost me to just get this clod to be a roller that met my expectations.

on a side note i am very pleased with how my first ever tuber chassis is comeing out i will post pics later

rockhead · 10-28-2008, 08:24 PM

Hey Swisherteets, it's great that you got an axial, I've only read good things about them. Just to let you know though, the clod axles are great just as they are. You made your own chassis, could make your own links, some nut and bolts from the local hardware store and the cost isn't to bad. Anyway, good luck with the build when you do it. Hey Bullet1231, I'm in Warrenton.

bullet1231 · 11-04-2008, 12:17 PM

warrenton's not too far, let me know when your comin out, my super is ready to roll, lol

10-23-2008, 11:32 AM	#1
swisherteets Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Jamestown Posts: 357	clod tuber build ok so i am look for some advice on the link positioning/length size on a clod tuber build than i am working on. As a side note to Dorkstar I couldnt wait for your chassis to come out on the market so I had to build one of my own. They say immitation is the sincerest form of flattery or some such saying :-p I just wanted to be sure that credit is given where credit is due so the question is will these tube lengths/angles be ok or should i do my absoulte best to get them idetical in size. I supose instead of using the simple round bar style four link mount i could change it up to help get them more parralel and equal length or are they close enough that i just shouldnt bother thanks for any and all help (I apologize for the cad model being a little rough its just a fast down and dirty model and I am sorry to anyone who would like a copy of the file but due to it being so close to dorkstars i wouldnt feel comfertable giveing it out) Last edited by swisherteets; 10-23-2008 at 11:34 AM.

10-23-2008, 08:07 PM	#3
swisherteets Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Jamestown Posts: 357	yea I am making mine out of 3/16 as that is what he made his out of and it is more than strong enough i think. I am thinking that all i need to change up how i am gonna mount the top links so that they arefurther foward and a lower mount position as far as size rules right now i am not worried. I live in in south west NY no one does anything here so its just for me to take out and mess with on my own. the largest group of rc in the area is carpet oval.... sigh i need to move Last edited by swisherteets; 10-23-2008 at 08:09 PM.

10-27-2008, 06:13 AM	#7
swisherteets Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Jamestown Posts: 357	hmmm ok thanks for the help. I have actually put this build on hold for now. I have the chassis nearly finished up however when I went to figure out all the needed parts to get the clod axles up to the quality i wanted (jp's custom knuckles integy tubes, cvd's adapter, and so on) I then realized how rediculously overpriced most things were, though i understand why they are justified to be the prices, being an engineer i know what tooling costs can be and i know that those costs must be absorbed into part prices and with relatively low volume of sale compared to other rc manufacturerers products means higher prices. I am more than willing to pay for them but until i have the money to burn i bought an axial and a dig, cvd's and tires and some other stuff for less than what it was gonna cost me to just get this clod to be a roller that met my expectations. on a side note i am very pleased with how my first ever tuber chassis is comeing out i will post pics later Last edited by swisherteets; 10-27-2008 at 06:16 AM.

10-28-2008, 08:24 PM	#8
rockhead Newbie Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Warrenton in Fauquier Co. Posts: 4	Hey Swisherteets, it's great that you got an axial, I've only read good things about them. Just to let you know though, the clod axles are great just as they are. You made your own chassis, could make your own links, some nut and bolts from the local hardware store and the cost isn't to bad. Anyway, good luck with the build when you do it. Hey Bullet1231, I'm in Warrenton. Last edited by rockhead; 10-28-2008 at 08:29 PM.

10-23-2008, 07:54 PM	#2
rockhead Newbie Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Warrenton in Fauquier Co. Posts: 4	Hey, it looks good to me. I was inspired by the Dorkstar build too and brazed a frame together. I recall reading that it's best to keep the upper and lower rods parallel, you may want to research that. It looks like you have the front rods shorter than the rear rods, I did read something about a 60/40 layout, but for mine I kept it 50/50. I thought maybe equal articulation best. My frame is made out of quarter inch brake line, looks good at the 2.2 scale. Don't forget to follow the size rules for eather 2.2 or super class.

10-23-2008, 08:36 PM	#4
rockhead Newbie Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Warrenton in Fauquier Co. Posts: 4	Good luck with the build. I'm down in VA and will have to travel about an hour south to compete. The first place that I took my truck out on the rocks was Long Lake NY up in the Adirondake park. Post a pic when your done.

10-26-2008, 09:59 PM	#5
bullet1231 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: sterling VA Posts: 276	what part of va? im in sterling, maybe we can hook up and go to a spot

10-27-2008, 05:04 AM	#6
KnutKase Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Placerville Posts: 145	I think I would recommend making the lower links at least as long as or longer than the upper links to try and preserve some sort of anti-squat geometry. It may not be as important on a rig with no drive shafts, but on a full size rig you do not want the rear axle housing to rotate that way as the suspension compresses, also it would make for horrible amounts of bump-steer when the front end kingpin inclination changes like that...

11-04-2008, 12:17 PM	#9
bullet1231 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: sterling VA Posts: 276	warrenton's not too far, let me know when your comin out, my super is ready to roll, lol

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