My first Cralwer project!

[Rex4223]

I've been lurking around the site for a few weeks now gettting info and ideas and thought it was time to say hello! I've also just started building my first crawler..

Here is the chassis I picked up from ebay. I was a little mad at the overall poor condition but the axles are good and that was my main concern.


Inspecting the gears and locking the diffs with JB.


Here's my chassis. I got the idea from another poster here to use shock towers. These ones are from an XTM Mammouth and the braces are from my Savage.


Here it is with the lower links in place and the chassis sitting close to where I want it to. I have to wait for my upper link mounts before I can measure and make the upper links.


Thats my progress so far.. The wheel base is 15 3/4". I plan to run front/rear steering too. I'm going to be picking a set of lather motors and few others parts in the near future but just thought I'd get some feedback. I do have a question though. The front and rear ends sway side to side right now. When the upper links are in place will this stop?

[AdamF]

Looks great! Post more pics when you get more done.

Yes, when you put the upper links on, it will prevent the axle from moving side to side. This is because you will triangulate the upper links. (if you mount them in the hole on top of the gearcase like everyone does)

[v33]

looking good so far. upper links i've seen are either .5mm shorter or the same length as the lower links. when upper links are in place they will limit the swaying but not totally stop it from happening ... thats what sway bars are for but only used on speed setups where it is vital.

btw, your chassis lower link area may catch rocks and stop it dead on its tracks ... you may want to cover that area.

[Rex4223]

Originally Posted by v33

.btw, your chassis lower link area may catch rocks and stop it dead on its tracks ... you may want to cover that area.

Do you mean where I have the links mounted or are you talking about the braces in between the towers? I was tossing around the idea of of skid plate and could bring it out far enough to cover the links if they will hang up on the rocks. What if I just moved them to the inside of the chassis?

[v33]

im talking about the area where your lower links are attached to the chassis.



the area where the green circle is. like you mentioned a skid plate should cover that area of the chassis (front to back) so it doesnt snag on rocks.

[AdamF]

Originally Posted by v33

. when upper links are in place they will limit the swaying but not totally stop it from happening ... thats what sway bars are for but only used on speed setups where it is vital.

Yes, triangulated upper links will stop SIDE TO SIDE movement of the axle completly. Sway bars are used to cut down on BODY ROLL.

[TheEvilKanoofy]

I really like your idea for a frame I think I might do the same if you don't mind!!

[Rex4223]

Here's a little update. I made new links to extend the wheelbase to 16 1/2" and I've finished all the links for the steering and mounted the front servo. I still have to get shocks mounted and get my upper link mount. I mocked up the upper links and they will be roughly 1/2" shorted than the lower ones. Will this be ok? I can still change them but the change will make them about 1/2" longer than the lower ones.. For the shocks I think I'm going run the maxx ones. What is everybody using for the lower shock mounts?

New wheelbase


Front steering


Rear steering


Body


Front end

[TheEvilKanoofy]

I got a 4 clamps to fit on the lower links off ebay for 15.00

[Rex4223]

Here's a little progress but not much. I picked up some shocks and I've been messing around with the chassis a bit to stiffen it up more and make room for the radio gear.. The lower shock mounts are zip ties before anybody asks lol. I just mocked them up until I can get the real ones.





The shocks are Hotbodies T-Maxx shocks. I used a set of MGT body posts for my body mounts. I just drilled the centers of them out so I could mount them the way I wanted to. I swapped out the round braces in favor of these squarded ones(also from a Savage). The square ones made it easier to mount the plate to. I made the top plate using .50 thick lexan to make it easier to mount the ESC and Rx. The batteries will rest under the ESC and Rx to keep the COG as low as possible but high enough to not be hit by any rocks. Still no top links though

I have another question now. With the shocks in place I loose a lot of articulation! Are the shocks supposed to slid on the lower links? With the zip ties in place the shock will slide when I twist it. When they do I get my full range of motion back. I was just wondering if they are meant to slide or do the real mounts hold them firmly to the lower links?

[mesaAZclod]

u think the zip ties for the shocks will hold?idk im just curious

[EeePee]

Shocks are NOT supposed to slide. You aren't looking for a boatload of articulation anyways. As cool as it may look, you'll find better performance with about 70 degrees tops.

[v33]

you dont need to invert your shocks, just remove the balls and replace them with a spacer or some electrical wire insulation of the same diameter and then sandwhich them between 2 washers.

i think there are too much support rods on your chassis, im using 4 on one of my trucks.

[Rex4223]

Originally Posted by EeePee

Shocks are NOT supposed to slide. You aren't looking for a boatload of articulation anyways. As cool as it may look, you'll find better performance with about 70 degrees tops.

OK thanks I just wasn't sure. It's kinda hard building a truck, especially when you've never seen a crawler up close.I'l just have to wait until I get my mounts to see what kind of articulation I really have. I've read that TXT-1 wheels will work on a clod? I've got a few set's of Outback Weld 40's that I run on my Savage but they won't fit? Two of the studs don't quite line up. I've tried a few different rims thinking maybe they were bent from being used but they are all the same. Do these need modded or should they be a direct fit?

[kwj48]

Originally Posted by Rex4223

I've read that TXT-1 wheels will work on a clod? I've got a few set's of Outback Weld 40's that I run on my Savage but they won't fit? Two of the studs don't quite line up. I've tried a few different rims thinking maybe they were bent from being used but they are all the same. Do these need modded or should they be a direct fit?

I just made the holes a little bigger. They work fine

[blazed]

hey thats my fav. pack of cigs. oh yeah it looks good so far. i like the 90 but i broke abot $50 of link ends and so i cut it back to about 60

[Rex4223]

Originally Posted by blazed

hey thats my fav. pack of cigs. oh yeah it looks good so far. i like the 90 but i broke abot $50 of link ends and so i cut it back to about 60

What do you mean??

[Rex4223]

Here's a little update. I've got my wheels and tires mounted and ready. I had to mod the Clod hubs to fit the TxT-1 Outbacks I used. I also stripped the chrome off of the rims and dyed them black. I'm going to need wideners though because there is about 2mm of clearance between the tires and the lower links. Either that of I can add spacers to the inside of the links on the axle side to bring them in more.

[BigJay]

You should consider narrowing the wheels a little if they aren't already. If you remove some from between the middle and inner bead of the wheel it will move the tire away from your truck.

-Jay

[Beastlytruck13]

ya that might be a little hard though to narrow the rims when he has already glued the tires on their.


i have heard you can bend the links slightly inward......not sure if that would be okay though