link question
 

raisisng the lower links on the chassis will give it more rear steer (BAD) will also give more antisquat (but with the little crawlers its hard to tell a difference if you run 50% squat or 150%) so squat really has nothing to do with it

making the lower link mounting points on the chassis closer together will give u less rear steer (good)


i didnt get ur last question:|


hth

Raising or lowering the upper or lower links will change the squat/anti-squat effect along with the roll axis. If I understand your last question currectly, your talking about moving the upper links towards the center of the axle. This will provide more lateral support and keep the axle centered in the chassis. The set-up may not seem as critical with the little rc's, but I can tell you, when you do have a currectly set-up 4-link, (like 3% to 5% anti-squat, 3 to 7 degree down roll axis, lower links with 5 to 10 degree up and uppers at 70% of the length and angled currently for centering the axle) your little rc will crawl like crazy. You will be able to control you rc better, it will steer where you want it, not where the axles steer it. Roll overs will happen much slower and you will have a better chance of driving out of bad situations. It may not be important for bashing, but if you really what to build a sweet crawler, it will matter a lot.

Thanks guys. That is exactly what I was looking for.
Sorry my last question wasnt clear, but Trailer you answered it.
From what I can tell from reading the boards you want at least 17" wheel base? Which is better, a standard mounted shock or a cantilever system. I am working with a Jugg2 with the full ESP kit and a TXT-1. Bothe are brand new and have been shelf queens for over 2 years. I am just looking to do something with them.
Thanks
Jason

I think standard mounted shocks are the way to go, I don't think cants. work as well.

Concerning the mounting holes on the chassis for the upper and lower link, should the top be directly above the lower? What happens if the upper mount is closer to the axle?
Thanks
Sorry for the dumb questions, just trying to understand this.

Look at your axles, does the upper links mount directly over the lower, probably not, so your frame mounting holes should be different by the same amount. Also, if you want to fight axle wrap (hopping) then mount the links closer to each other at the frame (up and down), about half the distance that the axle mounts are apart. Example: If the links at the axle are mounted 1.5" apart, then they should be about 3/4" apart at the frame. This is just a general rule of thumb, but it works great. Also, something to consider to help fight axle steering, make your upper links 70% the length of the lower links. Example: If your lower links are 7" long (center eye to center eye, measured in a straight line) then multiply that by .7 to get the length the uppers should be. 7 x .7 = 4.9". This can be changed slightly but never go below 60% or above 80% of the lower link length or axle steering will accur.

Just a couple tips from 1:1 crawling that I use when building my rc crawlers and they do very well.

Oh, and these aren't dumb questions, a properly set-up 4-link is not that easy to understand, there are just tons of different factors.

rear steer is determined buy your roll axis angle

not the length of your links;-)

you could make ur upper links longer then your lowers if u want

You could make your uppers longer, which if made long enough would prevent axle steer, but your roll axis would be directly opposite of the way you would want it. That would actually cause your roll axis to rise, if your looking at it on paper, from the rear to the front. By having your uppers shorter it keeps your axis pointing down, which keeps the rig much more stable.

You are currect, the axle steer is determined by the roll axis angle, but if your lowers are angled less than your uppers, then the uppers need to be shorter to help compinsate for it. Plus if your uppers are really long, then you have less angle on them. And with less angle on them, the links have less controll on placement of the axle under the chassis.

OWND!! :flipoff:

are u talkin to me?

Why, Do I win anything?

u were sayin i was owned?

but i was right?


when u have a clue come back:roll:

Yes, you were right. I agree you could do the same by making the top longer, but I just wouldn't do it because of the direction it points the roll axis, but someone could do it that way.

And, no, I don't believe you were owned. No one can be owned when it comes to building suspension, too many ways of doing it and having it work.

if ur upper links intersect at the exact same spot wether there 2 inches or 10inhes long

you will have th exact same roll axis correct?

there for the exact same amount of rear steer whether there 2 inches or 10inches long?

Yes and No. The chassis is only so wide, so for the longer top links to still mount to the chassis, the intersecting point would change, which would change the roll axis. If you made the uppers super long, and compinsated by mounting them super wide (at the chassis), which would keep the same intersecting point, then the roll axis would stay the same. So yes, if you can keep the same intersecting point the roll axis will stay the same, but to do that, the chassis points would have to be made wider than the chassis. I guess you could do that, but why?

So do I win? :?

im not saying i am goin to do that

i was just putting the point across that there is no magic number and that you can make your upperlinks longer then your lowers u dont have to have the 70% rule

and in answer to this question

Concerning the mounting holes on the chassis for the upper and lower link, should the top be directly above the lower? What happens if the upper mount is closer to the axle?

there will be no ill effects

on my rc my lower links are around 1" futher forward then the uppers on the chassis
and on the diff the uppers are around 1" futher back

my upper and lower links are the same length

it seems to work very well
my roll axis is flat (it actually slopes down a tiny bit to the front)on the rear diff) and my squat is just a bit under 100%

Believe me, I'm not saying your wrong, like I said, there are tons of ways of doing a suspension. The reason I use the 70% rule is to help locate the axle under the chassis, and keep the intersecting point close to the axle to keep the roll axis angled correctly. I like using about 105% to 110% anti-squat so the rear of the chassis lifts just a hair when you get on it hard. Plus, then when climbing up a rock and your CG shifts to the rear of the rig, then it will still just push not want to squat and roll the rig over backwards. It just depends on how you want your rig to react.