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Thread: Clod buildup (help)

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Old 09-10-2005, 12:48 PM   #1
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Default Clod buildup (help)

Well, I've found the limitations of my scale crawler, and so I am thinking about getting a clod. I have a (short) list of things that I "need," and please help out a clod noobie by posting stuff you would recommend me getting.

1) Clod axles $145 @ TheCrawlerStore
2) Stick Chassis $220 @ TheCrawlerStore
3) TTR adjustible motor mounts $30 @ TheCrawlerStore
4) Stick battery hold downs $2.50 @ TheCrawlerStore
5) (2x) integy lathe motors $20 each @ Integy
6) (2x) PL Moab tires $25 each @ Tower
7) (2x) PL Commando Beadlocks $33 @ Tower

Last edited by smojoe; 09-12-2005 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 09-10-2005, 12:54 PM   #2
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You'll need wheels, wheel adapters (going 40 series I assume), servo's, radio and reciever, and an esc (tekin rebel 2, my suggestion, compact and only weighs 2.5 oz.), 10th scale body, pinion gears. That is pretty much it.
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Old 09-10-2005, 09:02 PM   #3
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Just bought the full setup myself. Definately money well spent.
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Old 09-11-2005, 02:08 AM   #4
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Where can I get Clod to 40 series adapters (that hopefully widen the stance a little)?
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Old 09-11-2005, 02:12 AM   #5
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Ace on the board makes a set for the regular 40 series wheels.
Bender in the board makes a set for Prolines 23mm size.

You can check them both out in the vendor section.

Last edited by jason; 09-11-2005 at 02:33 AM.
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Old 09-11-2005, 09:13 AM   #6
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thecrawlerstore.com has the Thundertech ones for clod to maxx 40 series.
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Old 09-11-2005, 11:39 AM   #7
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Well, I am going to get the Moabs, so which wheel size should I use (or rather, hex size)? If I go 23mm, I get to use the new PL beadlocks, but if I go "normal" maxx size I won't be temped to spend so much money on wheels.

Speaking of money, don't expect to see this thing in action until at least the end of the year...
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Old 09-11-2005, 12:02 PM   #8
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if you cant afford beadlocks then why bother talking about it. just shoot for other options within your means. i would rather talk about offsets, stick with a rim that wont require additional purchases like wideners.
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Old 09-11-2005, 12:25 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v33
if you cant afford beadlocks then why bother talking about it
Because I have learned from both RC and computers that if you can buy the best, you do because it will benefit you in the long run. and also because of the bling factor

What wheel would you recommend for the moabs then?
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Old 09-11-2005, 05:56 PM   #10
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Stick with regular 40 series wheels. Then you can run a ton of maxx style wheels. In reality how often do you see a need to remove tires? I have run Moabs for months now and have never seen a need to change them. So beadlocks to me would be useless.
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Old 09-11-2005, 07:44 PM   #11
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How often I remove tires would depend on how good I am at getting the foam right.

edit

I know this question should be in the Electronics section, but should I dish out the extra $15 per servo and get two HS-5645MG's or stick with HS-645MG's? If neither, what would you recommend (without going much over $100 for two servos)?

Last edited by smojoe; 09-11-2005 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 09-11-2005, 11:09 PM   #12
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from what i have read here in the forums ... the digital servos have a higher battery drain rate than the 645's, also, if your going digital ... they say its best to ran a 7 pack.
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Old 09-12-2005, 08:23 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v33
from what i have read here in the forums ... the digital servos have a higher battery drain rate than the 645's, also, if your going digital ... they say its best to ran a 7 pack.
I heard the opposite. I heard that with it being digital the the drain was less.
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Old 09-12-2005, 01:36 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankyRizzo
I heard the opposite. I heard that with it being digital the the drain was less.
who ever told you that is wrong.

Q. Are there disadvantages to digital servos?
A. If there is any disadvantage to using digital servos it is power consumption. To obtain the high standing torque and quick response, digital servos require more from the power source than standard servos. By using a larger capacity battery and heavy duty harnesses, you will ensure proper servo performance.
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Old 09-12-2005, 02:24 PM   #15
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If that was the case then I would have gotten the 945's instead. I guess that's what I get for asking the hobby shop employees.
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Old 09-12-2005, 03:09 PM   #16
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Here are the specs from hitec.

http://www.hitecrcd.com/Servos/spec_sheets/hs5645.pdf
http://www.hitecrcd.com/Servos/spec_sheets/hs645.pdf

According to what it shows it seems that the digital draws less. Or am I reading it wrong?

3mA vs. 9.1mA

I am not on a mission to prove you wrong, but i was under the impression that everything digital took less to operate. IE cell phones etc.
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Old 09-12-2005, 03:16 PM   #17
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Numbers don't lie. But I think even more important are the running current draws. Which are the same.

I recall the biggest problem people had with digital servos was they overheated.
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Old 09-12-2005, 03:16 PM   #18
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didn't read your links but 3ma and 9.1 ma have to be the idle current.

Idle current is meaningless. Digitals draw more power when working simply because they are more powerful.

3ma is .003... I've never measured stall current on a digital servo but it's probably in the amp to 2 amp range.

Trust the fellas on this. I've seen lotsa guys have problems when running digitals due to excess current draw. Not a bad thing though, more current =more steering power, just have to prepare for it.
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Old 09-12-2005, 03:16 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankyRizzo
I am not on a mission to prove you wrong,
I lied, yes I am.
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Old 09-12-2005, 03:19 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EeePee

I recall the biggest problem people had with digital servos was they overheated.
And that was from the processors that they have inside. They have them with internal heatsinks now. Why it isn't open to the outside I do not know.
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