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Old 10-21-2009, 12:44 AM   #21
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Awesome super you got there..Love them Plowboys..Nova does awesome work!!
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Old 10-21-2009, 04:25 PM   #22
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...well, making some progress but I'm not breaking any records. Chassis, skid, spreaders, radio/battery tray and lower links are done... uppers next

The chassis, links & spreaders are 7075 & uber stiff. I'm considering putting some Axial shocks on it and will use the Traxxas progressive springs that E-hills ran on his.

Too bad Clod axles are old business in super class now, it's tough to keep up!
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Old 10-26-2009, 11:30 AM   #23
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Let me know when you get that thing done. We'll have to try it out at L.W. or Newport.
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Old 10-26-2009, 08:04 PM   #24
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Will do
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Old 10-28-2009, 04:37 PM   #25
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...some progress

Traxxas spring cups & turned a step on the Losi threaded collars for the Traxxas progressive springs. Need to come up with a shock oil, the 40 wt that's in these isn't enough!

I'm working on re-fitting the electronics tonight, hope to have it running by the weekend.
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Old 10-28-2009, 09:22 PM   #26
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i got 120 wt all around in mine now

truck looks really good, i wish i could have/build half the cool parts you do
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Old 10-29-2009, 05:02 AM   #27
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It turned out really good,,That chassis is sick. let us know how the progressive springs work out..I run alot heavyer oil in the shocks than other guys but i like the smooth effect it gives......
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Old 10-29-2009, 06:59 AM   #28
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"i wish i could have/build half the cool parts you do"
thanks, thems that can't drive... build
without all the help, advise & inspiration I wouldn't know what to design or build
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Old 10-30-2009, 08:07 PM   #29
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could we get an update on the hustler
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Old 11-12-2009, 06:13 PM   #30
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I've got to figure out how to post better pics..... these will have to do for now. Still working on body mounts and need to tidy up the wiring. Otherwise Loc-Tite all the nuts & bolts & she's a runner
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Old 11-13-2009, 07:00 AM   #31
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Man that is the best looking super i have seen yet. Nice job.
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Old 11-13-2009, 08:16 PM   #32
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woow.....nice rig you had....& nice pic too...
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Old 11-25-2009, 09:54 AM   #33
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Well, not 5 min on the rocks and the rear servo is blown and the front servo horn stripped. I've sent the rear servo back to Horizon/JR for repair and ordered two JRPA236 1-1/2" single side aluminum servo arms, a clamp type arm that'll hopefully fit the Z9100 well. I have some Robotronic arms but they don't work with my steering.....
The steering seems good, very little flex and no binding... it's nice and free. I figured the Z9100HVT would be more than up for the job with 480 in/oz of torque. The rig was a little bound between some rocks but not even close to what I do to my 2.2 with an 8711, I just flat-out abuse that thing and it keeps asking for more. The super has WAY more leverage over the servo and is heavier with more tire contact so it's apples & oranges I know, but I can't believe what I was doing was beyond normal procedure for a super. I'm at about 105% of the servo throw, the CVDs aren't bound up at that point and the rear servo went as soon as I made the steering input, it wasn't stalled for even a second. I checked the gears, they're fine (steel!) and the servo will push the wheels back & forth if you lift 'em off the ground. If you put it back on the ground and give a steering input you get the sound of the motor running until you release the stick, but the wheels don't move. Anyone that sees anything wacky with my steering set-up feel free to comment...
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Old 11-25-2009, 10:27 AM   #34
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Are you running BEC's? Check the voltage to each servo. I made an initial problem of sending 10V to each servo by grounding the servo's and BEC though the receiver and simply powering the servo's by the red BEC wire. 10V and first run sent one back to Airtronics.
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Old 11-25-2009, 11:17 AM   #35
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John, everything looks good as always. You build and machine some cool stuff. Those servos should not have failed the way they did. However, the short arm coming off the servo horn to the steering knuckle is hard on servos. I had a custom servo set up on my 2.2 pimp cane clod with 5 3/4 tall tires and it was hard on servos. It used a short arm like you are using. They would heat up extremely quick and 10 minutes was all it could be run at one time. Because that clod was set up with a torsion chassis it was very heavy which put a lot of pressure on the tires.

Now when I compare the 2.2 steering set up to the steering on my clod super, which has taller tires and more weight, the servos only get warm and that is after 30 minutes of play / practice and that is with 4S lipo. I have both servos wired to a BEC that powers them at 6.5 volts and the only wire going to the receiver is the signal wire from the servos. My steering on my clod super is custom but it uses an RC4WD axle plate that is drilled (a major pain in the @$$ because the plate is hardened steel) and then custom steering links. The steering is strong enough that it has broken several JP customs knuckles when the steering was bound. I am running Hitec 5955 servos and that's only 333oz of torque.

You need to move your steering link to the inside hole on the JP knuckles. If you leave it on the outside hole, the knuckle WILL break. JP Customs has no plans to be making any more knuckles and they are a pain in the @$$ to find used. The JP knuckles are nice because of the big bearing, but with clods kinda dying off and the high cost to machine knuckles, it's not looking good that Jarod will make more. Clod knuckles also have the bad steering ackerman problem. I looked into having knuckles made myself, but I don't think it's cost effective. So you really want to protect your knuckles since you have the weight system machined around them.

Another suggestion is to use the "other" set of custom of tires I made for you. Those will be much easier on the servos.
- Eddie
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Old 11-25-2009, 01:41 PM   #36
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Are you running BEC's?
Yep, two CC 10 amp units, one per servo and I checked the voltage at the servos when I set them up & after the re-install in the new chassis, it's 7.2 volts. I run the CC BECs direct to the servo with only the signal wire of the servo going to the RX. Same set-up I use on my 2.2s just doubled.

Eddie, thanks for the detailed thoughts. Yes the geometry can get funky with the short steering link and when this happened I was afraid I pushed the link over-center some how. It wasn't locked up though when it happened and in spite of getting pretty brutal with it after the fact, to see if I could make that happen, I couldn't get it to go over-center and jam. If I'm understanding you though you're saying the geometry resulting when using a short link works the servo hard which I believe though every thing was stone cold when the failure occurred so it would have had to be some sort of instantaneous jam/current spike to fail so quick. It almost seems like a gear in the servo is slipping on a shaft:?
I was hoping to not have to redesign & remake the steering but based on your tip about breaking my JP knuckles that looks like what I'll have to do.

I started some models/drawings for Jarod of both these knuckles and some with thicker steering arm and even a zero Akerman set. I agree that it's unlikely that they'll ever be produced although since I've got them pretty much completed design-wise I might make a set....

It figures I'd get this finished when everybody switches to torsion Bergs/Bullies!

...oh yeah, as soon as I can make up my mind which set of foams to put in 'em the narrow PlowBoys will be on this thing for sure! They look totally bitchen, as always
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Old 12-07-2009, 02:31 PM   #37
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Based on Eddie's comments I'm going to figure out how to get 4 of these machined up. They'll give me a zero Ackerman set-up, longer drag links and hopefully more steering on the outside wheel. ...oh and they shouldn't break the steering arm off either
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:40 PM   #38
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Can I get a couple pairs for my Super PLEASE?
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Old 12-07-2009, 10:46 PM   #39
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i want some too. in fact can i just mail you my super and you send it back all badass?
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Old 12-07-2009, 11:27 PM   #40
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Me Too
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