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Thread: 2.2 clod stall??

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Old 02-07-2006, 10:13 PM   #1
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Default 2.2 clod stall??

I was woundering if when running 2.2s you have clod still as bad as you do when you us 40 series or big tires???

thanks
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Old 02-07-2006, 11:10 PM   #2
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The weight of the truck is still about the same, so yes it will.
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Old 02-07-2006, 11:15 PM   #3
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I have been running my clod as a 2.2 for quite some time with a good bit of clod stall, I thought. This weekend while tinkering around I stuck on a set of giant tracs and it had alot more stall and it was easier to get it to stall. I would say that the leverage the tire has is the defining factor on the stall.
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Old 02-07-2006, 11:19 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepster26104
I have been running my clod as a 2.2 for quite some time with a good bit of clod stall, I thought. This weekend while tinkering around I stuck on a set of giant tracs and it had alot more stall and it was easier to get it to stall. I would say that the leverage the tire has is the defining factor on the stall.
Yes, because you are increasing wheel speed (larger diameter tire), therefore you are not geared as low and the stall is more apparent. If you re geared it to have the same final velocity the trucks weight will end up being the factor that determines the stall of the truck (assuming the weight of both sets of tires is the same).
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Old 02-07-2006, 11:40 PM   #5
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I played around with the clod stall, getting the ESC wires all the same length, thing like that when i had stock narrowed tires on it got some of it away. Then i slapped some 2.2's on it and there was very little clod stall.

the weight does play a factor but so does the strian of the tires on the electronics, so a smaller tire will cut down on the axle strain and lessin' the clod stall.
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Old 02-08-2006, 07:30 AM   #6
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Thanks i will keep this in mind.
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Old 02-08-2006, 07:36 AM   #7
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A way to fight clod stall is to wire your rear motor first and then run your wires to the front motor. Also gear the rear motor 1 tooth lower than the front.:? For example, run a 9 in the rear and a 10 in the front.
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Old 02-08-2006, 10:10 PM   #8
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You can also make it happen a little less by switching to a shafty.
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Old 02-08-2006, 10:12 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepster26104
You can also make it happen a little less by switching to a shafty.

I think I'm going to be sick!
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Old 02-09-2006, 04:57 AM   #10
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if you ran dual esc's wouldn't it kill all the stall?
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Old 02-09-2006, 10:32 PM   #11
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One thought that i have... I have no idea if it will work but here it goes..

You take a two recivers and run the same crytals in the 2 recivers and the same in you remote. Then you hook on of the Esc's up to 1 recivers and the other to the one that is left. This will eliminate the stall but will force to to run 2 batts or you could make a spliting harness to run the two esc's.

Tell me what you think of this idea?
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Old 02-10-2006, 11:12 PM   #12
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It is still going to stall under a bind. Being as there is no solid link between the front and rearends. But running 2 esc's should help. You don't need 2 recs though. Just run a y harness from the escs to the rec.
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Old 02-12-2006, 10:51 PM   #13
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lmao or just run a shafty lol
u had to get in there w/ that huh lol
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Old 02-13-2006, 07:44 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dezfan
A way to fight clod stall is to wire your rear motor first and then run your wires to the front motor.
That really doen't help.

What I did on my stick...I ran 8 cells and really never had a problem. Sometimes stall is welcome on extreme inclines because it will keep you from flipping over. I don't think you would have an issue with 2.2's because the tire would spin due to the fact you have the same torque on the smaller wheel.
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