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Thread: CPE Chassis VS NN chassis

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Old 04-28-2006, 03:18 PM   #1
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Default CPE Chassis VS NN chassis

ok now i know theres alot of biased for the NN chassis. but please try to keep an open mind. (and i agree it seems to be a very complete and capable kit)
first of all. im trying to build a super budget crawer. money is extremely critical. im not gonna enter any comps. ill probly never EVER even get close to eithers chassis capabilities. (i understand the NN is probly a more capable chassis)

ok here we go

NN CHASSIS: 170


www.crawfordperformanceengineering.com
CPE EVO 16" CHASSIS: 80
4 link brackets: 15
Front steering link kit: 10
rear lockout with links: 17
TOTAL: 122
(yes i know id still be lacking a few bolts (ie links to axle 4-40s)

thats $48 dollars cheaper


now heres the kicker, im building a tuber. which ever chassis i get i will NOT be using the chassis center section. i only need it to measure for the mounting points for the shocks and links. so i will only be using the links from the kits and the other parts. not the chassis it self. (again just need it for measureing mounting points as this is my first clod and i have no clue where they mount [height, width apart etc])

what do you guys think? anyone know about the quality of the CPE kits?

ANY info/ suggestions/ advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-28-2006, 03:45 PM   #2
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If your building a Tuber then why pay for an $80 chassis that you will never use?
Ask around and someone will help you with mounting locations. And it's not a science of where to mount them.
If you want a 16" WB then build the tuber anywhere from 12 to 17" long. About 4 to 6 inches tall and about the same for width. Depends on what you want it to look like.
Set up your tuber on a can or something that is about 3"- 4" off the ground. put your axles with rims and tires mounted at the desired location then measure how long to make your own 4 links (it simple and there is a sticky somewhere). Then set up your shocks to the desired point. You can buy the steering links but you can also make those the same way as the 4 link.
I wouldn't spend the $80 on something that you don't plan to use. And you (might, don't know what you have) still need electronics save the 80 and spend it on that.
Thats just my opinion though
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Old 04-28-2006, 05:50 PM   #3
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/\ thats some good advice.. i am also planning on building a clod based tuber. i am going to start with a T2 tuber and see what i can come up with.
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Old 04-28-2006, 07:13 PM   #4
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Or buy the Vertical Smile for 55 bucks; much cheaper reference material!
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Old 04-28-2006, 07:17 PM   #5
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Yeah what he said^^^
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Old 04-28-2006, 08:54 PM   #6
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Thanks for the comments on our Evolution chassis. While this chassis is a capable crawler it was not designed to complete directly against the NN, or any other, crawler chassis.

I would also agree with Double J that you really don't need to spend extra money for a chassis you're not going to use. If you send me an e-mail I'll provide you with enough information for you to get started with your tube frame 4-link/shock layout.
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Old 04-28-2006, 09:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPE MT
Thanks for the comments on our Evolution chassis. While this chassis is a capable crawler it was not designed to complete directly against the NN, or any other, crawler chassis.

I would also agree with Double J that you really don't need to spend extra money for a chassis you're not going to use. If you send me an e-mail I'll provide you with enough information for you to get started with your tube frame 4-link/shock layout.
well that would be awesome if i could get the specs for your center section then i would buy all your matching links. it should bolt right up.

i was just gonna buy becuase i didnt want to post a "someone measure there chassis so i can copy it" thread cause yeah that would not go over with the sponsors/ makers of the chassis. so i figured i buy it and measure it. safest/nicest way to go about things

why do you say your chassis is not meant to compete with NN or others?
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Old 04-28-2006, 09:42 PM   #8
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No problem with the dimensions, just let me know eaxctly what you're looking for. I was also a bit reluctant in having my 1st post here being interperated as saying our chassis is better than someone elses.

The Evolution chassis was designed as a multi-purpose chassis that can run well as a rock crawler as well as a race/bashing chassis by simply relocating the 4-link bars. The chassis works well for both and can easily have 4+" of chassis clearance in it's crawler configuration. This was designed more for everyday general use than a specific, single application and some compromises were made with the design to allow it to do that.
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Old 04-28-2006, 10:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPE MT
No problem with the dimensions, just let me know eaxctly what you're looking for. I was also a bit reluctant in having my 1st post here being interperated as saying our chassis is better than someone elses.

The Evolution chassis was designed as a multi-purpose chassis that can run well as a rock crawler as well as a race/bashing chassis by simply relocating the 4-link bars. The chassis works well for both and can easily have 4+" of chassis clearance in it's crawler configuration. This was designed more for everyday general use than a specific, single application and some compromises were made with the design to allow it to do that.
lol yeah i did notice it was your first post.
do you have any high res pics of your EVO chassis?

i take it the difference in the wheel base models are just the legths of the links? i have a question about that. would not the longer the links and them still be mounted to the same close-to-center point make the links.....im not sure the word for this....lower isnt right. well more in the way.... damn i cant think of the word. ok on the rockbull chassis they bend the links to keep them tucked up out of the way. i guess it would be the opposite of that.

so what makes one mounting position different from another(where shocks, links, etc mount to chassis) as far as chassis design? there are so many options how do you know which one to use for one particular application (crawling only in my case)

thanks so much for your posts and help. i havent even got fully into the sport (all ive got is a 1:6 nylint and just bought clod axles for this project) and im already addicted its friggin late i should be in bed...... yet im hear forever researching. lol
i can tell im gonna have fun with this....

Last edited by STANG KILLA SS; 04-28-2006 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 04-28-2006, 10:20 PM   #10
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LOL! I know my wife says I am a JUNKIE!! All you ever do is spend time with your crawler, or all you ever do is read RCCrawler... Blaa Blaa Blaa. I don't think I'll ever introduce her to Jason, she probably try to full nelson the poor guy!
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Old 04-28-2006, 10:22 PM   #11
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Dezfan,

Thanks for the compliment on our products. We actually have a crawler-specific chassis in the works. We're testing the prototype now and it will probably be ready in a couple of months.

Our Evolution chassis uses the same center section with longer/shorter links depending on the wheelbase you require. Re-orienting the lower link where it mounts to the axle basically changes the clearance on the chassis. We allow for a relocation of the upper link where it mounts to the chassis in order to keep the upper and lower links parallel to each other.

Link position and shock designs can work well in many different configurations. I personally don't feel a bent link is as strong as a straight link so we don't use them. I also like having a compact chassis so you won't ever see a full frame rail (Rockzilla style) chassis from us. Since you said you're building you own chassis, the final design should be something that will work and that YOU like the looks of.
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Old 04-28-2006, 10:47 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPE MT
Dezfan,

Thanks for the compliment on our products. We actually have a crawler-specific chassis in the works. We're testing the prototype now and it will probably be ready in a couple of months.

Our Evolution chassis uses the same center section with longer/shorter links depending on the wheelbase you require. Re-orienting the lower link where it mounts to the axle basically changes the clearance on the chassis. We allow for a relocation of the upper link where it mounts to the chassis in order to keep the upper and lower links parallel to each other.

Link position and shock designs can work well in many different configurations. I personally don't feel a bent link is as strong as a straight link so we don't use them. I also like having a compact chassis so you won't ever see a full frame rail (Rockzilla style) chassis from us. Since you said you're building you own chassis, the final design should be something that will work and that YOU like the looks of.
great info! and again great customer interaction! always great for everyone to have that great consumer-producer relationship and accessability.
yeah i think the full frames look gay too.
i guess what ill have the questions about is the adjustable mounting points. ok the front to back i understand that adjusts wheelbase. but what does the up and down do? change suspention geometery? make articulation better or worse, etc etc. how do you know whats RIGHT?
look forward to your purpose built crawler chassis. u guys seem to have some really great prices.
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Old 04-29-2006, 12:08 PM   #13
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i found alot of good info here



http://craftlab.net/epage/elibrary%20wheel.htm
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