Motor Turn Questions.

[skoolbus]

1)With the stock 27 turn motors, does the esc see double that or half that when they are hooked up?
2)Why do you need a reverse magnectic mayhem motor, because it uses positive timing?
3)So a non-reverse rotation motor when used on a clod will always be wired in series right?

Answer any of these if you can, I'm confused as ususal.

[Grizzly4x4]

Skoolbus, here is how I understand it from what I have read and done.

1) The esc sees two 27 turn motors as half that when hooked in parallel. It sees them as double that when hooked in series. I tried mine in series and what happens is the motors turn half as fast and when crawling it will allow one motor to stall and just send all the power to the other.

2)Mag Mayhems have a fixed advanced (or positive) timing. If you run them backwards (reverse the + and - wire connections) it will now have retarded timing. The motor will work but is not very efficient, thats why the truck can still run in reverse but it is usually slower.

3) For 0 degree motors: wire them in parallel to the esc but revese the + and - connections at the rear motor. This does not mean the rear motor is in series it just means the rear motor is spinning backwads compard to the front.

Hope this helps.

[skoolbus]

Ok, please be patient I too " have retarded timing " sometimes.

Ok, you said----"For 0 degree motors: wire them in parallel to the esc but revese the + and - connections at the rear motor. This does not mean the rear motor is in series it just means the rear motor is spinning backwads compard to the front----

Aren't the motors running in series anytime you go positive to negative and negative to positive, no matter if it is done at the ESC or the motors?
It seems like you cannot run clod motors in parallel unless you have a reverse rotation motor..
Does this statement/question make sense?
Seem like to actually run the motors in parallel you have to go positive to positive negative to negative at the ESC abd the motors, but then you have the truck going in both directions at once?

Help!

[Grizzly4x4]

Skoolbus, I know it is confusing, but you are focusing on the + and - of the motors without looking at how the whole system is wired. Let me try to esplain, but I aint no professor.

Parallel Wiring:
Take the + wire from the esc and sloder two wires to it so you have a "Y" connection. Then hook one wire to the positive terminal of the front motor and the other to the rear motor negative terminal. Like my crude diagram below.

esc (+) ______front motor (+)
l____________rear motor (-)

then do the same with the - wire from the esc. Like below.

esc (-) ______ front motor (-)
l____________rear motor (+)
This is parallel wiring because both motors will see the same voltage from the esc and the electrical current splits between the two motors. But because the rear motor connections are reversed, as compared to the front, the rear motor spins backward.

Series wiring:
Take the + wire from the esc and connect it to the +terminal of the front motor. Then connect a wire from the - terminal of the front motor to the - terminal of the rear motor. Then connect a wire from the + terminal of the rear motor to the - terminal of the front motor. then connect the - wire from the esc to the - ternimal of the front motor.

esc (+) -> (+) front motor (-) -> (-) rear motor (+) -> esc (-)

REMEMBEER, the Clod wiring above is only for a zero degree timing motor to make it spin backward. If you are using Mag Mayhems or some other reverse motor in the rear they are designed to spin backward.

Now, if you had a TXT or EMaxx you would want both motors to spin the same direction. Also if you have a reverse rotation rear motor in a Clod it is already designed to spin backwards as compared to the front. So to wire the motors in series you do it like this:

esc (+) -> (+) 1st motor (-) -> (+) 2nd motor (-) -> esc (-)

To wire a TXT, Maxx or Clod reverse rotation motor in parallel:

esc (+) ______ 1st motor (+)
\____________2nd motor (+)

then do the same with the - wire from the esc. Like below.

esc (-) ______ 1st motor (-)
\___________ 2nd motor (-)

Notice that the 2nd motor for the TXT wiring is just flipped compared to the rear motor in the Clod wiring. All that does is make the rear motor spin backwards in a Clod, it does change whether it is in series or parallel. When wired in series, all the electrical current has to pass through the front motor to get to the rear motor thats why it is called series. In series wiring you could also start with the rear motor, it does not matter to the esc.

Again, I dont recommend series wiring in a Clod. Hope this is helping..

[skoolbus]

I have to tell you thanks for the in depth explanation, and taking the time to help me out on this confusing ?
See, I have built a 3 pronged interconnect that will go between my ESC and allow me to use 1 or 2 stick packs. THe Super rooster limits dual 15 turn motors and 10 cells. I know it will handle 12 cells with proper cooling(non-warranty) and I have contacted mabuchi and I know the stock 540's will handle 6-20 volts. SO I am building my dream truck with an option to climb at 6 cells(batt in front) and screw around with 12. (another batt in rear) I have found away to get the power as the EVX without the jerkiness and the option to use only 1 stick pack nlike the EVX by just 1 plug bridging the gap from series to a single.I'm sure you can picture what I am talking about. THe wiring scheme is similar to what you just opened me up to on the motor wiring. Series looping around completing a circuit. Thanks and if your interestd in my project let me know I can send you some pics.

[Grizzly4x4]

Skoolbus:

Originally Posted by Grizzly4x4

Notice that the 2nd motor for the TXT wiring is just flipped compared to the rear motor in the Clod wiring. All that does is make the rear motor spin backwards in a Clod, it does change whether it is in series or parallel.

I had a typo there: I meant to say "All that does is make the rear motor spin backwards in a Clod, it does NOT change whether it is in series or parallel."

I'm glad this helped and was not too confusing, it is a difficult subject. Post some pics here, I would love to see your battery setup and am sure some other people would be interested too.

[skoolbus]

Picture problem.

[skoolbus]

Look down.

[skoolbus]

WOW, It worked.
1)Ok this is a way to run either single or dual backs off your ESC(if it can handle it) the EVX alot of people use is jerky and you must use dual packs or you can't play. In the first picture you will see a circled connector this connector completes the single pack circuit, and the second pack circled is ommited.
2) The second pic shows the circled connecter unhooked and the circled second battery connected, completing the dual battery series circuit. The stock mabuchi motors are rate up to 20volts so they may wear a bit faster, but they do handle the extra voltage. A fan on the ESC would be a good idea since the SR is rated at 10 cells max, and we show here a void warranty using 12 cells.

Project ----EXILE-----

[Grizzly4x4]

Nice, my daughter's Clod needs a few more cells for snowbashin and I would like the option for my crawler too. Gonna haf to build me one of those wiring harnesses. Thanks for the pics skoolbus.

[skoolbus]

Update.

----I was unaware you could run 1 stick pack off the EVX until I ventured into the general forum. I posted you can't run 1 pack with the EVX, I didn't know when I posted that, sorry. THe EVX is however jerky.

---- Mabuchi has made 5 versions (that I am aware of) of the 540 motor. The lowest was rated at 4.5 volts max and the highest at 24v. 2 of these models have been used in clods, a 3v-12v and a 3v-24v. I do not know how to tell these apart and I really don't care. They are so cheap the dual pack set-up has had nothing fail as of yet.

MY set-up was .............
Motors in parallel(pretty sure)---I had a set of used TXT-1 motors(same as the newer 540 clods pretty sure) they did show some brush dust and get hot when using dual packs. The SR had no fan. I ran 4 times with dual packs with 3000mh packs as my chassis was not set up to hold duals without rigging the second battery down.
---I know there are people who want a cheap thrill, this is it. Kinda like NOS it's there when you want it, but you don't crawl with 17.4 volts. So, the EVX may be a better choice/and titans are definitely better for HV, until I talk with someone who knows whats inside these 2 ESC's don't blame me if you blow up your ESC or blow out your gears. I do feel confident enough to be building a personal chassis around using my SR and room for 2 packs.
---This is a long post, point being this is a $3.50 at most trick, try not to kill your truck, let me know if something fails and let me know your expresion when you hook it p for the first time.. 8O

[skoolbus]

:o Wanted to bump this back up, I've been running the SR with dual packs long enough to recommend it on stock motors. It will -smoke- an emaxx and it's a better esc for crawling than the evx. I'll get some pictures up of the truck when I get my main comp fixed. The wiring scheme is in this post though. :P

[SR5Dave]

Originally Posted by skoolbus

:o Wanted to bump this back up, I've been running the SR with dual packs long enough to recommend it on stock motors. It will -smoke- an emaxx and it's a better esc for crawling than the evx. I'll get some pictures up of the truck when I get my main comp fixed. The wiring scheme is in this post though. :P

My twitchiness has been linked to bad connectors, I hardwired all connections including the power switch, and now my only problem is my cheap battery packs (Albeit GREAT packs) have bad connectors, I think with some Deans it'll be PERFECT. NO complaints about the EVX having any faults, just my shotty setup!

[skoolbus]

That may be the fix to the twitch. I don't know, I kept my maxx with tamiya's on it. But I don't know why the dual SR set-up is so much more powerful than the EVX It accelerates and has alot "ALOT" more punch. Is the SR that much better of an ESC