? FOR All CLOD FANS

[skoolbus]

Take a second and answer these qusetions without reading and moving on, please.

There are few aftermarket chassis available that I am aware of, 10 or so. If you wanted to buy an aftermarket chassis, for your stock clod what would most of you be you be looking for?

1) 4-link, 3-link, old school solid axle/shock. Full frame, short frame, baddest new fad susension, something affordable enough you don't have to build yourself, a complete package or just the chassis with the option to choose other components, Speed(dual packs or lightweight chassis), most articulation, shiney parts, tallest lift, competition chassis, lightweight, something just better than stock, something different, what do you want when you get ready to plunk down $$$$$$ on an aftermarket chassis?

2)How much do you think is reasonable for what your asking for? :o

Please answer these 2 questions and in the next month I will see if I can build what the average guy is looking for, be realistic I am not a wealthy person.

A) Chassis cost you decide.(I'll set the profit margin at a low 50%)
B) Chassis type you decide.
C) Chassis material you decide.
D) I'll Build it.
E) Give it to who-ever you guys say describes it best. 8O

Nothing promised here, winner may end up with a wooden set of links and a set of square swampers.........

[Mnster]

light, small, flexy and strong with good clearance.

[PoRiggity]

Id like to see something based around aluminum, with crawling in mind, with linked suspension setup... something similar to the gecko chassis, but cheaper
Scott

[Fishmaxx]

You go to Mudcow.com, and build that again. Take pictures every step of the way. Post them as you go. Then shoott some cool videos

Everybody loves you

End of Story

[skoolbus]

--Ok, so far we have several votes for aluminum. (Which is great, since I have some aluminum already.)
--Good arcticulation.
--Cheap. :P
--Linked suspension.

--Mudcow uses cantilevers, that would add some complication and cost for fabrication, and not necessarily add to articulation. :o

"You go to Mudcow.com, and build that again. Take pictures every step of the way. Post them as you go."

I don't really want to copy someone, this is a freebie project something a little different. You could go to the cows site and copy his truck without me. Not offense, it's a sweet truck!

--So this first day I'm getting an idea of smallish aluminum(not full frame) linked chassis, which allows for a lightweight good arcticulating chassis.

--I'll try to draw up some frames when I get some time and scrounge some graph paper, you guys decide how long the links should be or about how long the wheelbase needs to be.
--Almost forgot, decide where the battery goes, they dont' run well without a battery.(Long like the gecko, through the sideplates the ripper, on top underneath, what-ever. I'm thinking through the sideplates, it would add strength to the chassis flex and simplify battery changes.

[skoolbus]

-Ok, I drew up 4 basic chassis sideplates. I used graph paper so the lines will be true. This looks kinda cheesy, but this is the way it will start. After one is chosen, I will glue the paper to either a thin piece of plywood or posterboard, then I will cut the shape out and use it as a template.

--I still like the idea of the battery runnning through the sideplates, it will be much easier to change out a battery and will lighten the chassis by removing some metal. The metal removed won't weaken the chassis much since the battery will be in place.


4 Plates
1) I'm not much on this square look, although easier to cut, it's not very thrilling.
2)Again simple, even more simplified is the battery cut-out. A rectangle is easier to cut than an oval.
3)This is probobly the way to go, it's got that 1:1 shape and the battery cut-out is simple.
4)I like this one also, but battery cut-tout would again be a little harder, and different stick packs tend to vary in size.

Here are a few more questions?
1)Again what is the wheelbase length?
2)Shocks mounted on the links, or on the axles?
3)Top links mounted on the axle tubes or in the center of the diff?
4)How wide should the chassis be?

* "Project Freebee" you would think more people would want a free chassis...Oh well better chance for the few that are interested.

[skoolbus]

--I have decided to go with 14gauge aluminum. Most aftermarket chassis use pretty thick stock, but we are looking for affordability and the least mass that won't bend. With proper bracing and the smallish frame size 14gauge should be plenty for a single pack crawler that doesn't see more than 10mph or so. :o
--I am think about using 5 bracing points 2 at the top, two at the bottom and one in the center, all the engineer guys will tell you to for, use triangles when you build anything structural. This pic shows clear lines that form 4 triangles of bracing. :o


--Tommorrow I am going to make templates with these 2.
Cut 1 each of these guinnee pigs out of 14gauge aluminum and see which one I could make work. I have a feeling the oval shaped battery holder will be hard to cut, I have only a dremal and jigsaw, no CNC machining here. Secondly that oval really bothers me because packs are not the same size and the square opening leaves leway for any pack. :o

--Anyone have any input feel free to give some tips or critcism. I'm open to suggestions.

[Fishmaxx]

I like what what you are doing. I think it will show newbies the process of building a crawler.

[skoolbus]

Why thanks Fishmaxx, I really thought I would get more input, but I guess when it's finished the, ooo meee meee's might start.

Ok, I used rubber cement to glue my cut out graph drawings. I glued 1 to a piece of aluminum and one to a piece of posterboard. Then I cut out the templates. Cutting a template using aluminum tought me several things, it's not as acurate as paper(duh) and those rounded edges I was worried about are a pain in the rear when all you have is a Dremel and paper thin cutting discs( the discs break unless cutting a straight line). Something that you will be amazed by though is that a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade will cut aluminum like butter.


I mentioned batteries being different sizes. I show 2 here, a racers edge and a matched sanyo 3000 pack. The batteries are lined up like in a flashlite in the racers edge pack and they are side to side in the sanyo matched pack. The racers edge fits, see. :o


Here is the delima, the matched pack isn't even close to going through. I could make the hole bigger, but it just makes more sense to use a rectangle. :o


Here is the larger of the 2 batteries, the Sanyo matched pack, it fits nicely through the rectangular slot. :o


Also, you willl see some holes in the template, these holes are for.
1)Top 2 cross bracing and electronics base.
2)Two holes under those will be for the top shock mount( no-one said where they wanted the shocks, someone said they liked the gecko type so, I'm putting the shocks on the links).
3)Center hole is for cross bracing.
4)Third holes down just above the battery cut-out are for top links.
5)Two at the bottom of the battery cut-out are for crossbracing.
6)Bottom holes are for bottom links.

I'm going go chill awhile and then I'll post the templates run rampant on the aluminum. I've decided to make a few extra to fund the freebee.

P.S.
Someone needs to answer --some-- questions still. (Pasted from top)
Here are a few more questions?
1)Again what is the wheelbase length?
2)Shocks mounted on the links, or on the axles?
3)Top links mounted on the axle tubes or in the center of the diff?
4)How wide should the chassis be?

[skoolbus]

Tracing the template
This part was easy, I just lined up my posterboard template with the straight cut aluminum sheet and began tracing with a sharpie permanent ink pen, and poked the tip through the holes in the template to mark for drilling :o

1)The sharpie ink line is the same width as my jigsaw blade, so as long as I cut the lines dead in the center ie. making the line disapear all the chassis plates will be near the exact same size. I would however recommend drawing and cutting two completely seperate pieces vs side by side cutting like I am doing. I have cut quite a bit with a jigsaw and I'm comfortable with straight lines.

2)I then pre drilled all my holes that were marked with the same template. :o

3)Next, I will cut out the rectangular sections for the battery with a Dremel. :?

4)Last thing I will do is cut each chassis side piece out of the sheet using my jigsaw. It is easier to drill and do the rectangle cut-outs before cutting the sideplates if you have a large piece of aluminum to work with. :o

Here's a pic of the chassis sidepates pre-drilled and awaiting cutting. The aluminum looks scratched, but no worries it's a protective plaastic coating that is applied to both sides. Once the assembly is complete, you can peel off the plastic to reveal the shiney aluminum(which can be polished to a mirror finish).

[PoRiggity]

Its looking pretty damn good to me... The problem with the matched packs could be an issue, but Im sure its nothing you couldn't work around
Scott

[Fishmaxx]

To determine the wheel base there are two factors to consider.

1) What do you want the truck look like

Is the body going set over the wheel for a more scale appearance, is it going look more like a monster truck.

2) What kind of terrain will you be crawling on?

In my experience crawling , over logs ,tall flat rocks, and on ledges longer seems better. Also on steep inclines

On broken concrete and jagged rocks the edges will sneak up between you front and rear wheels causing you to high center. Also
on stair-climbing if your wheel base is to long you have to take the steps 2 at a time. My truck won't do it yet..............but I am working on it

Bottom line..............some time longer is better, and sometimes shorter works best 8O

15-16 inches seems to work for a lot of folks :?

[Destroyer]

I think you should mount the links on the axle tubes for two reasons:
1-it's easier
2-allows more uptravel of the suspension off a jump.

For wheel base, I think longer is better more often than shorter. Also, a nice slick aluminum center skidplate would be useful to protect the ends of the rods and allow the center to slide over rocks instead of get hooked.

If you are going with a short frame chassis, link mounted shocks are probably the only way to go.

Make sure to file all the edges so you don't cut yourself or any wires!

Destroyer

[skoolbus]

Hi, again.

Fishmaxx,

Fishmaxx, Bottom line..............some time longer is better, and sometimes shorter works best

This is so true, there is a trade-off. The good thing about a super long wheelbase is, the ability to drape over nearly anything. But a shorter wheelbase allows for a better turning radius that clods suffer from. By link mounting the shocks, it allows the shocks to move up or down on the links. This shock placement will allow the wheelbase to be adjustable as well as ride height.


Destroyer,

I think you should mount the links on the axle tubes for two reasons:
1-it's easier
2-allows more uptravel of the suspension off a jump.

I can't remember why I asked this, I must have been thinking shock mounting location, or including a center diff post for te upper links. Since this is a budget crawler, I'm not including a center post. Also I agree, with your examples 1 and 2. The only downfall is usually less arcticulation with axle mounted links, but the suspension does handle impact better. Infact with my project exile I've stalled on, I plan on mounting links mounted on the axles for that reason. It all comes down to what you want from the truck, so the owner can decide this one. No link mounting center post will be included then. :o

Destroyer,

Also, a nice slick aluminum center skidplate would be useful to protect the ends of the rods and allow the center to slide over rocks instead of get hooked.

This is probobly going to be the only thing that I don't like about this chassis. I'm not going to fabricate a skid plate for it.---It is a simple bolt on anyone can add if they want it later---. To be cheaper than the other chassis out there it can't come with more standard equipment than a chassis that cost several hundred more(which don't include a skid).

LINKS
****I have decided there is going to be one main difference in standard equipment on this chassis. Most of the cost will go here. I have made alot of aluminum links with 4-40 and 6-32 taped out aluminum 1/4 rod. I am not going to go into any detail about link building since there are plenty of tutorials including one on this site under top 10 arcticles.

****I'm going to make all the crossbracing and links out of carbon fiber. Lightweight and strength were major requests, so I think the high tensile strength to weight ratio carbon-fiber has to offer, will set this chassis apart from the rest.

Here was todays latest accomplishment, I thought about polishing the plates, but again it would raise cost and thats something that can be done at home in no time, takes time though if your working with 20 of them.
Sideplates


At this point the project is on hold, carbon-fiber has to be sized and ordered, since its a specialty item. So, we wait.........

[skoolbus]

Alrighty, I had enough carbon fiber left over from project Exile to put 1 of these together. I don't have enough carbon to make the links though, so here are a few pictures of the chassis without links. These are nice because it's starting to look like something here.

:o Here is the chassis still with the protective plastic on it. You can make out the sharpie ink here and there. Notice the 5 carbon fiber braces. The 3 lower braces are held on by stainless steel nylon locking nuts. The two upper braces are longer to allow body post mounting hardware. All bracing is done with 6-32 size hardware. This chassis will be rustproof, since all these materials I am using are rust inhibiting metals or coated.



:o Here I am peeling off the plastic coating that is on both sides, if you use aluminum without plastic coating when your done drilling and cutting it, chances are it'll be scratched up. I decided to build this chassis 4" wide, if anyone has any input on width let me know, because until I mock it up to the axles with link this is a guess.


Here is the chassis with the plastic removed Pretty good looking I think, and it is really light. Since I have to wait on the carbon fiber to come in, I will make an electronics plate for it, and go get body posts.


How should I hold the battery down. I'm thinking use zip ties, or either a velcro strap over the battery and under the 2 braces. What do ya think? Anyway thats all for now. Hope you guys like how it's coming along.

[PoRiggity]

I have a question for you.. Is there a way to make a provision to run a dual battery setup? Im thinking of buying an EVX ESC, and Id like to run dual batteries.. any possibilities of that?
Scott

[skoolbus]

I have a question for you.. Is there a way to make a provision to run a dual battery setup? Im thinking of buying an EVX ESC, and Id like to run dual batteries.. any possibilities of that?
Scott

-You can stack and strap batteries to almost any chassis out there. On this one I would put them inside and run them legthwise instead of through the side plates.

-BUT to be honest, this particular chassis is a crawler, not a basher. It (may) wind up weighting less than any other available chassis. Loading it down with batteries and electronics should not be necessary. Ask any of these guys and they will tell you a good set of aftermarket motors are plenty, and with less weight you get better handling. There are literally several pounds in difference with chrome molly tube chassis/carbon fiber/aluminum ect. The chassis here will have an awesome power to weight ratio even with stock motors, I'm almost sure it will wheelie without the diffs being locked. 8O

-Don't get me wrong, I like lots of torque and power also, but with this come parts breakage. With cantilevers and linked suspension speed equals broken rod-ends and rods. Most chassis are over built and never fail, thats why I went with higher guage aluminum, the chassis will hold up, it's the links that fail. :?

-So to answer your question in a super long post, you can do it, but expect to have some down time.

[skoolbus]

Okie dokie, now we got a polycarbonate electronics plate mounted up-top and some HPI body mounts.

CHASSIS PICS
SIDEVIEW. :P


DOWN ON IT AT AN ANGLE. :P


LOOKING DIRECTLY DOWN THROUGH THE TOP, SHOWING PRETTY STRAIGHT/SQUARE BUILD. :o



STRAIGHT THROUGH THE BOTTOM. :o


A BLING BLANG SHOT, IF YOUR NOT INTO CLODS IT WOULD MAKE A NICE PENDANT. :?


Wheres that UPS truck

[PoRiggity]

Well, My next question would be is there an easy way to run a single battery with the EVX?? :-D
Scott

[skoolbus]

Well, My next question would be is there an easy way to run a single battery with the EVX??
Scott

Try this:
http://www.rccrawler.com/postt356.html