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Old 12-31-2004, 08:49 PM   #1
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Arrow How to build a Clodbuster Rock Crawler

This article is currently being updated.

Please see the following vendors for your parts needs:

www.orcrc.com/crawlmart/crawlmart.htm
www.jpcustomrcs.com/home.html
www.xtreme-rc-hobbies.net/
www.thecrawlerstore.com
www.rcpcrawlers.com
www.rc4wd.com
www.jwcustomwurksrc.com/
www.holmeshobbies.com/home.php
www.reignrc.com/
http://www.shop.rpphobby.com/categor...?categoryId=46
http://www.crawfordperformanceengine...n/commerce.cgi

I'd like to thank everyone for posting in here. There are no stupid questions so ask anything you are unsure about. I will make sure you don't get flamed on and will delete any posts that are not made with good intentions. This thread is kept clean and posts are deleted regularly. Any info you post that is useful will be added to this original post so please keep asking questions and posting answers if you know them. Thanks again and good luck with your new build.



Index:
Part 1: Buying the components
Part 2: Available Chassis Kits
Part 3: Construction and assorted notes



How to build a Clodbuster Rock Crawler
Part 1: Buying the components


This guide is designed to help newcomers with the task of acquiring the numerous components needed to build a Clodbuster Rock Crawler. Move your mouse pointer over the associated text and left click to jump to the associated website.

To make this all a little easier to use, I've compiled an abbreviated list for the beginner crawler to use. This list of parts is a good starting point for anyone to build a clod crawler. I've recommended components so you don't have to decide yourself. The majority of parts you will need to build your crawler are:

Clod Axles
Clod Chassis (you have to choose this one)
Speed Control (recommend the tekin rebel 2)
Servos (recommend 645mgs)
tq3 system
Batteries for truck (all but the stick can use whats listed below- subC 6 cell)
Battery Charger (see recommended below)
Tires (proline Moabs)
Wheels (Proline velocity or mambo)
Wheel Adapters
Motors (Integy Lathe 65t with 8 tooth pinions)
Diff Locks



1) Clodbuster Axles
--Ebay
--TheCrawlerStore.com
--RCPCrawlers.com
--rc4wd

2) High Torque Servos
--Hitec HS-645MG Servos are the most popular. 133.31 oz/in at 6.0V
--You can upgrade to digital and increased torque. HS-5645MG 164.2 oz/in at 6V[/url]
--Hitec HSC-5955 - Robot servos provide the most torque, but at a high cost. 339 oz/in at 6V
--Hitec HSR-5995 (180 degrees of rotation - programmable) - Robot servos provide the most torque, but at a high cost. 339 oz/in at 6V Note, this servo rotates 180 degrees. A normal servo only rotates 90 degrees. This helps preload the servo saver but may not be good for all applications

3) Servo Savers
--Kimbrough Gas Car/Truck Servo Saver #124
--The Ofna Gas Car/Truck Servo Saver - Really good for the 180 degree rotation robot servo

4) 4 Wheel Steering Kits. Some chassis kits come with steering, so check with the manufacturer of the chassis you are buying to see if the chassis kit comes with steering or not.
--RcGuy 4 Wheel Steering Kit
--rc4wd steering kit

5) Electronic Speed Controller (ESC)
--Tekin Rebel 2
--Novak Super Duty[/url]
--The Novak Super Rooster was the standard ESC for rock crawling but is now discontinued. If you have one or can get one they are still a great choice for rock crawling.
--If you have an EVX laying around, that can be used also. You can run one battery off your EVX, see how by clicking here. http://www.rccrawler.com/evx.htm


6) Radio System/Remote Control
--The TQ3 with rear steer is very popular.www.TheCrawlerStore.com
--Spectrum DX6 www.rcpcrawlers.com
--Clod Mod Racing TQ3 www.rcpcrawlers.com
--The Futaba 4WD remote is also a good option


7) Batteries
--SMC 3600mAh Nimh packs are great www.thecrawlerstore.com
--Or, a more economical choice if money is an issue, use DuraTrax Shark 6-Cell 1500mAh Sport Standard

8.) Battery Charger
--DuraTrax Piranha AC/DC Digital Peak Charger NiCd/NiMH

9) Tires/Rims/Adapters
--Axial Racing 8 Hole Beadlock Wheels
--Pro-Line Moab tires are the most popular [/url]
--Pro-Line Velocity rims for the Moabs or other 40 series tires (Requires clod to maxx wheel adapters, see below)[/url]
--Pro-Line Mambo rims for the Moabs or other 40 series tires (Requires clod to maxx wheel adapters, see below)[/url]
--E-Maxx and T-Maxx tires are fairly popular.
--Imex items can be purchased directly from Imex.
--IMEX JumboMaxx Swamp Dawgs for E-Maxx and T-Maxx
--IMEX Rims for E-Maxx and T-Maxx
--Or these clod to maxx adapters from TheCrawlerStore

10) Motors
--You need two motors for a clodbuster. Lathe motors are the most popular.
--There are several motor mount manufacturers: Thunder Tech Racing, RcGuy, rc4wd, etc.
--Low tooth count pinions.

11) Top link mounts.
Some trucks such as the Vprime require upper link mounts.

12) Diff Locks. These are needed to lock the differentials on the truck which is a must in rock crawling.




How to build a Clodbuster Rock Crawler
Part 2: Available Chassis



"The Stick"
Click the image to open in full size.

"NN"
Click the image to open in full size.

"Hustler"
Click the image to open in full size.

Rockbull
Click the image to open in full size.

Gecko 2
Click the image to open in full size.

V3
http://www.utrcrc.com/products.html
Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by 666; 09-27-2008 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 01-02-2005, 04:19 AM   #2
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Default Re: How to build a Clodbuster Rock Crawler

How to build - Part 3:
Construction and assorted notes
:


This is a work in progress.

Make sure to use locktight on any metal to metal hardware like a metal screw going into a metal part or into a metal nut.

Nitro or gas powered r/c trucks do not make good crawlers at all for many reasons. Electric motors have allot more "control". You can control the torque and power you apply much more precisely. Electrics have instant reverse. Not all nitros even have reverse systems stock. Nitros free wheel (no brake or engine power) when the throttle on the radio is returned to neutral. This allows the truck to roll which you don't want to do when crawling on inclines.

You can lock your differentials (diffs) using jb weld or hot glue.

Four Wheel Steering:
To make the most capable rock crawler you should setup four wheel steering (4ws - steer the front and rear wheels). You can use a Y servo cable to do this. The y cable is inexpensive ($4-$10) and you can get them at any local hobby shop or online hobby store. But this will give you full time 4ws which is not really that good. The best setup is an independent 4ws system. Setup like this, the front and rear servo are wired seperately into the receiver on different channels. For this you need to have at least a 3 channel radio system. The cheapest method to do this is to modify a tq3 system. You can buy the parts or a complete system from RCC vendors or you can modify your system with the info found here:

My Modded TQ3 Update - Added EPA pots

You can also use a 3 or more channel radio system. Different radio systems are listed above in part 1 of this article.

Mounting servos:
Here is some info on how to mount your servos to the clod axles.
Aggressor Steering System
Aggressor Steering System

You should also cut off the 4 little knubs (steering stops) on each knuckle to increase turning radius. I use a pair of wire cutters or knips, but you can use a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel (use safety glasses) or any other means.

About the super clodbuster kits:
The super clod kit does not come with any type of controller and receiver, servos, batteries, or any wiring that you would use on a clod based crawler. the stock clod can't do much of anything. It's only worth buying for the axles.

Making you own links:
http://www.rccrawler.com/customlink.htm
http://www.rccrawler.com/links2.htm

Wiring your motors:
http://www.utrcrc.com/utrcrc/tech.html

Links to other usefull threads:
RCCRAWLER tips, cheap tricks / parts guide.
An explanation of the different types of crawlers, 2.2, super, unlimited, shafty, tubers, price considerations, performance, etc.
A Detailed Description of the Different Types of Crawlers

Last edited by badger; 04-16-2007 at 02:33 PM.
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Old 02-11-2005, 02:08 PM   #3
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How about ways to lock the axles. What works, what doesn't. Or do you not lock at all?



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Old 02-11-2005, 03:24 PM   #4
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Use JB weld, hot glue, or a commercial diff locker to lock your diff. It is a must to lock it. Crawling is all about getting the power to the ground.

Last edited by kevinlongisland; 04-22-2006 at 08:35 AM.
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:08 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torredo
How do I go about putting
the links on (attaching them), and some average lengths of links??
It varies from rig to rig, nobody can say what any one rig will be. You just gotta measure and figure it out ;) I've made them from anywhere between 5" and 8".

Last edited by kevinlongisland; 04-22-2006 at 08:39 AM.
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:08 AM   #6
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ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT BEHIND THE AXLE (BTA) STEERING!

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/tamiya-clod-buster/8546-does-behind-axles-limit-artic-post86788.html
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Old 10-20-2005, 10:31 AM   #7
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how do you link the servos for 4ws? or do you need a seperate channel for the rear wheels?
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Old 10-20-2005, 10:42 AM   #8
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You can get a Y adapter or you can adapt the third channel with a toggle switch from thecrawlerstore.com.

Adapting the third channel will allow you to crab walk or steer opposite at will.
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Old 11-12-2005, 11:30 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supercar5694
RC4wd has full craling axles that look really good. I'm not quite sure, I'm a noob.
I'm someone who is really interested in those for reasons many of you are aware of..

They look stout; they did reinforce the dogbone area on the long side, but in not having that part where in necks down... You're likely going to take away a lot of your steering ability.
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Old 11-12-2005, 02:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SR5Dave
I'm someone who is really interested in those for reasons many of you are aware of..

They look stout; they did reinforce the dogbone area on the long side, but in not having that part where in necks down... You're likely going to take away a lot of your steering ability.



I had to triple check the post date. I just can't believe it!!!!!!!!!!!! WHATS UP MAN!
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Old 12-10-2005, 11:06 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRevolver
Im not new to RC but new to RockCrawlers. Its now winter and the Rustler and T-Maxx are as I want them so this is my next project. I always had an interest in getting a clod and modding it up. I did notice that there were a few others that mentioned if it were to be cheaper to buy a crawling chassis and work off it or buy a Clod and the kit intop of it. Im guessing it wouldnt be to to much to build the axels and put electronics on them? Well Im lookn foward to being on here and props to the man who made this intro page!

Welcome to r/c crawling. You can buy a used crawler off of this site or ebay. That's always the cheapest route. If you want all new parts you can either buy a clod kit and sell off the remaining parts you don't use, or just buy a set of clod axles from one of the vendors on here. Then purchase one of the many chassis available or build your own. There are many options. Spend some time looking around the boards, reading and searching. After a while you'll figure out what route you want to take. Welcome to RCC!
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Old 01-20-2006, 04:23 AM   #12
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Hey RockRevolver, did you ever finish up that number crunching? I'm currently doing the same thing. Here's what I've come up with so far:
clodbuster kit 190 towerhobbies
integy lathe 55t motors 37 towerhobbies
robinson 9tooth pinion 6 towerhobbies
tekin rebel2 esc 80 towerhobbies
the stick 199 thecrawlerstore
adjustable motormounts 30 thecrawlerstore
Hpi Bronco body 25 towerhobbies
total 567

txt 355 towerhobbies
integy lathe 55t motor 18 towerhobbies
robinson 9tooth pinion 3 towerhobbies
tekin rebel2 esc 80 towerhobbies
gd600 13 towerhobbies
total 469

clod axles 130 thecrawlerstore
integy lathe 55t motors 37 towerhobbies
robinson 9tooth pinion 6 towerhobbies
tekin rebel2 esc 80 towerhobbies
the stick 199 thecrawlerstore
adjustable motormounts 30 thecrawlerstore
tires 50 towerhobbies
rims 17 towerhobbies
wheel adapters 45 thecrawlerstore
total 594


Oddly enuff its cheaper to buy the clod kit and go from there. I also plan on narrowing the stock clod rims and tires to try and keep costs down at first, the wife is giving me a spending limit, its my b-day and she has never really liked my RC addiction so i'm just grateful that she has even offered to get me something I actually like!!!
All kidding aside, I'm really looking forward to getting started in this new(to me anyway) hobby. I also plan on using my JR XS3 Tx. With 4WS, can it be/should it be used as proportional steering just like front only steering or is it better to just have full tilt one way or the other in the rear like with the TQ3 kits that Kevin provides?
I'm going with the Stick simply because if I end up not liking it, it will be easy to pass on and if I end up not being able to get enuff crawling, then I got the best from the start, not trying to brown nose!
If I've missed anything, please let me know. I've been lurking here for about a month and you guys are doing some amazing stuff. Thanks for all the useful info you guys put out, keep it coming!!
Tom
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Old 01-20-2006, 07:39 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metomwhou
to getting started in this new(to me anyway) hobby. I also plan on using my JR XS3 Tx. With 4WS, can it be/should it be used as proportional steering just like front only steering or is it better to just have full tilt one way or the other in the rear like with the TQ3 kits that Kevin provides?

Tom
One of my trucks has proportional rear steer, the other lock-to-lock. I really don't notice the difference that much. I like my proportional a little bit more, but 90% of the time it really doesn't matter.
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Old 01-31-2006, 01:23 PM   #14
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Click the image to open in full size.

http://www.junfac.com/conversion_feather_crawler.htm 180 $

vid http://www.junfac.com/index.htm

Last edited by kevinlongisland; 04-22-2006 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 02-26-2006, 04:16 AM   #15
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Clodbuster gearing info:

Pinion 32 pitch 13 tooth gear ratio 1:30.1
Speed, Stock 15mph / Run Time, about 8 minutes 2000mAH battery


Pinion gear ratio:

8T 48.89:1
9T 43.46:1
10T 39.11:1
11T 35.56:1
12T 32.59:1
13T 30.08:1
14T 27.94:1
15T 26.07:1
16T 24.44:1


Figured I'd post it since people ask about it alot!
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Old 03-16-2006, 07:02 PM   #16
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I want to build my own crawler from a clodbuster but there's one thing i don't understand, if the clodbuster has 2 motors, then doesn't it need an esc that is wired for 2 motors? How does this all work? I want to have one battery also.
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Old 03-17-2006, 10:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCfroman
Which means? And how do you do this? Sorry, I'm new to this crawling thing... and dual motors...
Like this!

http://www.utrcrc.com/tech.html
Attached Images
 

Last edited by kevinlongisland; 04-22-2006 at 09:45 AM.
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Old 03-18-2006, 07:09 AM   #18
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Wire it up just like the picture. The front motor will have positive to positive, the rear motor will be opposite. So the rear will have the positive wire going to the negative terminal on the motor.
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Old 05-04-2006, 03:31 PM   #19
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I have a quick newb question. I was wondering how some guys wire up for another battery pack to run the servo's. How does that join up with the ESC and that battery? Is there any other part that is needed other then the extra 6v battery? illustraions or pictures help a lot for me.
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Old 05-04-2006, 04:03 PM   #20
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I know you have to disable (cut or disconnect) one of the power wires coming from the esc. Basically you set it up so the esc only has a signal to it from the receiver. But I can't remember now what wire you need to disable. It's somewhere here on the boards. You may want to ask this in the electronics section. Then you just plug the battery into the battery slot in the receiver.
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