RCCrawler Forums

mch441 · 03-06-2007, 08:20 AM

im going to be running integy 55 turns and 9 tooth pinions in my clod and am hoping to not have to buy motor mounts ,my plan is that while i have my axles apart im going to lengthen the hole on the top with my dremel so i can rotate the motor into the spur gear.can i still use the stock plastic cover when i do this or do i have to make something up on my own ?? also with the integy's can i just reverse the polarity on the rear motor or do i have to take it apart and turn the end bell 180.ive got hand wound integy's coming from rcp crawlers so i realy dont know whether they are timed or not .i know these seem like stupid questions but the guys at my lhs dont really know anything about crawlers and ive only run into 1 other person that has one and only know how to contact him thru this forum

TwistedMetal · 03-06-2007, 08:28 AM

i believe the integys are set at 0* timing. so just reverse the polarity and you will be ok.

mch441 · 03-06-2007, 08:32 AM

cool that makes life a litte easier ,i also need to wire those in series right??

Kamikaze · 03-06-2007, 08:39 AM

Nope, parrallel.

TwistedMetal · 03-06-2007, 08:44 AM

Kamikaze, why do you wire them in parralel rather than series?

mch441 · 03-06-2007, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kamikaze

Nope, parrallel.

im a little confused right now i have my silver cans wired so that my positive splits to both motors and my negative does the same is that not what i want ??

TwistedMetal · 03-06-2007, 08:51 AM

that is wired in paralell

mch441 · 03-06-2007, 09:06 AM

cool at least i dont have to redo all that my sattering skills arent so hot so that make my life a little easier.

DaViolentOne · 03-06-2007, 10:02 AM

Parallel wiring the motors is the way to go... Run 'em in series and whichever motor is 2nd in the line will get what's left over from the 1st motor... Parallel shares the power equally to both motors... Clodstall, I understand, is HORRENDOUS with series wiring...

As for the mounts? One guy in my group here has modded his to fit 8t pinions just the way you;re talking about.. It is possible to make it fit without having to get aftermarket mounts... But just be careful... Every mill you take off, is that much less strength in that area...

TwistedMetal · 03-06-2007, 10:07 AM

I know how to make an 8t work with no motor mounts and no dremeling!

TwistedMetal · 03-06-2007, 10:23 AM

what you do is, take the brass sleeves out. then when you bolt the motor in with 8t pinion use the two holes on the same side of the motor. Put the larger part of the motor towards the diff. do not use the holes that are straight across from each other. you will have to dremel just a little out the the hole so that the hump where the bushing goes into the axle will clear. if you need pics i can take some.

mch441 · 03-06-2007, 10:31 AM

it dont think ill hve to grind all that much away maybe between an 1/8 to a 1/4 inch and only planning on doing it to the top hole. im kind of hoping ill be able to keep using that little sleeve in there if i do it right

TwistedMetal · 03-06-2007, 10:37 AM

but without the surrounding of the sleeve, the sleeve doesnt work as well. if you do it the way i said it, u leave that part of the axle untouched, so u dont have to worry about it. obviously its your choice, my idea is just a suggestion.

mch441 · 03-06-2007, 11:03 AM

i see what your saying im actually going with 9 tooth pinions but ill give that a try first and see how they mesh

TwistedMetal · 03-06-2007, 11:26 AM

cool. let me know, im interested to find out about 9t's.

4link4eva · 03-06-2007, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwistedMetal

what you do is, take the brass sleeves out. then when you bolt the motor in with 8t pinion use the two holes on the same side of the motor. Put the larger part of the motor towards the diff. do not use the holes that are straight across from each other. you will have to dremel just a little out the the hole so that the hump where the bushing goes into the axle will clear. if you need pics i can take some.

I'm almsot certain that won't work. The two holes that you are talking about using aren't far enough apart to be able to line up with the holes on the gearbox.

Unless you've tried it, and have pics, I don't think it'll work.

TwistedMetal · 03-06-2007, 12:06 PM

I know it works. i have one set up that way. Without the sleeves, those holes just barely work, but they DO work. ;)

rcktpwrd · 03-06-2007, 12:11 PM

here is a link to pics of this mod:
http://www.craftlab.net/epage/etech2pinion.htm

4link4eva · 03-06-2007, 12:16 PM

Twistedmetal, can you take pics of your turck with this mod? I think you and rcktpwrd are talking about two different mods.

TwistedMetal · 03-06-2007, 12:39 PM

Sorry for the blurry gear pic, but it is meshed right.

You may have to drill out the original holes slightly to make this work though. But it does work.

03-06-2007, 08:20 AM	#1
mch441 Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: bristol Posts: 88	home brew motor mounts im going to be running integy 55 turns and 9 tooth pinions in my clod and am hoping to not have to buy motor mounts ,my plan is that while i have my axles apart im going to lengthen the hole on the top with my dremel so i can rotate the motor into the spur gear.can i still use the stock plastic cover when i do this or do i have to make something up on my own ?? also with the integy's can i just reverse the polarity on the rear motor or do i have to take it apart and turn the end bell 180.ive got hand wound integy's coming from rcp crawlers so i realy dont know whether they are timed or not .i know these seem like stupid questions but the guys at my lhs dont really know anything about crawlers and ive only run into 1 other person that has one and only know how to contact him thru this forum

03-06-2007, 08:28 AM	#2
TwistedMetal Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Monrovia Posts: 178	i believe the integys are set at 0* timing. so just reverse the polarity and you will be ok.

03-06-2007, 08:32 AM	#3
mch441 Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: bristol Posts: 88	cool that makes life a litte easier ,i also need to wire those in series right??

03-06-2007, 08:39 AM	#4
Kamikaze I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Columbia TN Posts: 6,154	Nope, parrallel.

03-06-2007, 08:44 AM	#5
TwistedMetal Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Monrovia Posts: 178	Kamikaze, why do you wire them in parralel rather than series?

03-06-2007, 08:51 AM	#7
TwistedMetal Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Monrovia Posts: 178	that is wired in paralell

03-06-2007, 09:06 AM	#8
mch441 Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: bristol Posts: 88	cool at least i dont have to redo all that my sattering skills arent so hot so that make my life a little easier.

03-06-2007, 10:02 AM	#9
DaViolentOne Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2006 Location: Surrey, BC, Canada Posts: 870	Parallel wiring the motors is the way to go... Run 'em in series and whichever motor is 2nd in the line will get what's left over from the 1st motor... Parallel shares the power equally to both motors... Clodstall, I understand, is HORRENDOUS with series wiring... As for the mounts? One guy in my group here has modded his to fit 8t pinions just the way you;re talking about.. It is possible to make it fit without having to get aftermarket mounts... But just be careful... Every mill you take off, is that much less strength in that area...

03-06-2007, 10:07 AM	#10
TwistedMetal Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Monrovia Posts: 178	I know how to make an 8t work with no motor mounts and no dremeling!

03-06-2007, 10:23 AM	#11
TwistedMetal Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Monrovia Posts: 178	what you do is, take the brass sleeves out. then when you bolt the motor in with 8t pinion use the two holes on the same side of the motor. Put the larger part of the motor towards the diff. do not use the holes that are straight across from each other. you will have to dremel just a little out the the hole so that the hump where the bushing goes into the axle will clear. if you need pics i can take some.

03-06-2007, 10:31 AM	#12
mch441 Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: bristol Posts: 88	it dont think ill hve to grind all that much away maybe between an 1/8 to a 1/4 inch and only planning on doing it to the top hole. im kind of hoping ill be able to keep using that little sleeve in there if i do it right

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03-06-2007, 10:37 AM	#13
TwistedMetal Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Monrovia Posts: 178	but without the surrounding of the sleeve, the sleeve doesnt work as well. if you do it the way i said it, u leave that part of the axle untouched, so u dont have to worry about it. obviously its your choice, my idea is just a suggestion.

03-06-2007, 11:03 AM	#14
mch441 Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: bristol Posts: 88	i see what your saying im actually going with 9 tooth pinions but ill give that a try first and see how they mesh

03-06-2007, 11:26 AM	#15
TwistedMetal Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Monrovia Posts: 178	cool. let me know, im interested to find out about 9t's.

03-06-2007, 12:06 PM	#17
TwistedMetal Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Monrovia Posts: 178	I know it works. i have one set up that way. Without the sleeves, those holes just barely work, but they DO work. ;)

03-06-2007, 12:11 PM	#18
rcktpwrd Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: raleigh, nc Posts: 135	here is a link to pics of this mod: http://www.craftlab.net/epage/etech2pinion.htm

03-06-2007, 12:16 PM	#19
4link4eva RCC Addict Join Date: May 2006 Location: In England, looking for the threadlock... Posts: 1,150	Twistedmetal, can you take pics of your turck with this mod? I think you and rcktpwrd are talking about two different mods.

03-06-2007, 12:39 PM	#20
TwistedMetal Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Monrovia Posts: 178	Sorry for the blurry gear pic, but it is meshed right. You may have to drill out the original holes slightly to make this work though. But it does work.

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