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Thread: glueing diff's might have made a boo boo

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Old 03-08-2007, 09:26 AM   #1
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Default glueing diff's might have made a boo boo

jb welded my first gearbox last night still have to pull apart the second.i had thought ild cleaned the teeth of the gear off pretty well before i put it back together and also greased it pretty well but when i checked it this morning it seems to have a small tight spot when i rotate the axle shafts but it does get past it.should i be worried about it and pull the gear box apart again or just let it work its way out .im going to be running integy hand wound 55 turns so ild think that it would smooth it self out pretty quickly.
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Old 03-08-2007, 09:29 AM   #2
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i would pull the axle back apart, and clean the teath out where the jb weld got in them. if you leave it in there, it will eat up the idler gear.
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Old 03-08-2007, 09:31 AM   #3
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Ya just take it back apart. I you can't clean it all off. Just buy in gears. There only 8 bucks shipped.
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Old 03-08-2007, 09:38 AM   #4
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Yeah, the idler. its the center gear. if you get jb weld into the teeth of the diff gear, it could very possibly eat the idler.
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Old 03-08-2007, 09:40 AM   #5
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thats kind of what i was thinking just really didnt want to go there.i probably should have waited to put it back together it seemed like the best way to keep it line up right was in the gear box itself
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Old 03-08-2007, 09:45 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwistedMetal
Yeah, the idler. its the center gear. if you get jb weld into the teeth of the diff gear, it could very possibly eat the idler.
my bad, didnt see i was in the clod forum. i look through by new posts, not under the different forums.

i deleted my post.
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Old 03-08-2007, 10:50 AM   #7
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it should be pretty easy to find the were its binding ,i guess ill be pulling it apart tonight.has any one ever tried using silly putty to lock there diff ??
i know ive heard of people doing it to their savages and maxxes
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Old 03-08-2007, 11:23 AM   #8
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it wont work on a clod axle. it works on the savages, maxxes, revos, etc. because it is in an enclosed diff housing.

Last edited by TwistedMetal; 03-08-2007 at 12:12 PM.
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Old 03-08-2007, 12:10 PM   #9
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gotcha
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Old 03-08-2007, 02:21 PM   #10
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Never leave a binding transmission to work itself out. It heats up the motor (sometimes damaging it), ESC (setting fire to MOPEDS), and generally puts more strain on everything.
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Old 03-08-2007, 06:06 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mch441
thats kind of what i was thinking just really didnt want to go there.i probably should have waited to put it back together it seemed like the best way to keep it line up right was in the gear box itself
You did right. If you don't put the axle back together there is a good chance the side gears will come out crooked and your diff will be worthless. I've done it. Better to have to go back in and clean things up than order a new diff gear.
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Old 03-09-2007, 05:53 AM   #12
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done !!!took it apart and cleaned it up last night ,nice and smooth now.when i do the other axle ill try to be a little more careful where the glue goes.lesson learned only bad thing i see is that the one axle shaft is now permantly part of the differntial gear but as long as i dont break anything it shouldnt be a problem
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Old 03-09-2007, 10:47 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mch441
done !!!took it apart and cleaned it up last night ,nice and smooth now.when i do the other axle ill try to be a little more careful where the glue goes.lesson learned only bad thing i see is that the one axle shaft is now permantly part of the differntial gear but as long as i dont break anything it shouldnt be a problem
Alittle heat will get it backout. The only nad thing about using shoe-goo is in cold weather it can come loss. Dezfan had that happen that the last comp. He is now getting Alum. lockers.
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Old 03-09-2007, 11:27 AM   #14
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I have found that it is easier if you bolt them together personally. However, either way you want to do it. When I do it I run a bolt through the axle holes in the diff and tighten it down snug to keep the sides aligned and straight so there is no worry or wobble when you put it back together. Be warned though if you bolt the diff sides together there is limited space for screw heads and such in the housing. I use 6-40 screws with counter sink heads drill three holes smaller than the bolt. Then use a slightly larger bit to make a counter sink for the head of the screw to set flush with the outside of the diff. Then thread the screws through the holes and snug them with a screw driver. Then I cut off the excess on the other side even with the other side of the diff. You need to tear them down for inspection every so often just check the screws are snug when you do. So far there have been no issues doing it like that and unlike the jb weld that seems to work its way loose so you have some play in the diff the screws are a true solid lock with no play. (Not saying the JB weld dont work but anyone that does it will tell you after some time it starts turning loose and will give you some play in the gears.)
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