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Thread: rear axle switcharound

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Old 05-03-2007, 02:39 PM   #1
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Default rear axle switcharound

Ran into a problem mounting my rear axle so i switched it around so the tie rod's facing the belly. Who runs thier rear like this? Any issues with the tie rods other than getting banged up?

Now cause of the switcharound, i can't run the upper links from the center link rod of the axle because they are now too short with the rod facing forward. It's a combination of the frame/body setup causing this. I could chop away but wanna leave it as is. I'm thinking of runnign parallel links with a panhard bar back there.
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Old 05-03-2007, 11:57 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddeprived View Post
I can't run the upper links from the center link rod of the axle because they are now too short with the rod facing forward. It's a combination of the frame/body setup causing this. I could chop away but wanna leave it as is. I'm thinking of runnign parallel links with a panhard bar back there.
By flipping the axle backwards the upper links should be to Long...Post a pic of what you have. It's easy to see what your working with. One the steering links just set up a BTA on those and it will fix that issue.
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Old 05-04-2007, 05:08 AM   #3
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By flipping the axle backwards the upper links should be to Long...Post a pic of what you have. It's easy to see what your working with. One the steering links just set up a BTA on those and it will fix that issue.
Front of the rear axle facing forward.


Back view of rear axle.



Side view of mocked up lower links.


In the pictures, you can see how the axle was rotated so the lower links would clear the tie rods. This moved the upper link mount back some and enabled me to make longer upper links. I'm gonna think about the BTA and see what i can come up with that way. I still haven't locked the rear steering yet. Didn't get a chance to research on home made steering lockouts yet.
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Old 05-04-2007, 05:21 AM   #4
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You can use large washers jammed between the knuckle and Axle C for Lock outs.
Here is a thread with pic's of different ways to lock out the rear stear.

TTR CVD/Straight Axle How to & Review
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Old 05-04-2007, 05:33 AM   #5
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You can use large washers jammed between the knuckle and Axle C for Lock outs.
Here is a thread with pic's of different ways to lock out the rear stear.

TTR CVD/Straight Axle How to & Review
Thanks. I'm gonna go with the washer trick. Are there any known side effects of doing that? I can see a tire being forced to turn a little on a bump and possibly crack the knuckle or axle c?

I flipped the steering to the back just to see how it works. I don't know why i didn't think of this last night but i know i ain't boozin and fabbin anymore. I can booze and wrench on my 1:1 anyday with no problems but when it comes to custom building a rig from scratch, nah.



Thanks Run. By the way, got the servo yesterday.
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Old 05-04-2007, 05:37 AM   #6
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Hey I cracked one Axle C...Thats way I went with TTR's Straight axles. Only $36 bucks.
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Old 05-04-2007, 05:49 AM   #7
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Hey I cracked one Axle C...Thats way I went with TTR's Straight axles. Only $36 bucks.
I just read everything on that page and saw that you broke it. I noticed the straight axles have outer drive hexes and aren't splined like the stock? I am running splined hex's for the nylint wheels and i don't see how this would work. Maybe i'm overlooking something...like usual I do have 2.2 revolver wheels and all-t's coming in so the hex issue won't be an issue with those wheels.
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Old 05-04-2007, 10:10 AM   #8
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never had a problem with the washer trick personally.....

The only thing(s) about flipping the axle backwards that I do not like, is that it does not allow you to go as vertical on a 2.2 and would make it a pain to backup at times.. I was going to try it on my last truck, but the cons outweighed the pros to me, but that is for a comp truck..
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Old 05-04-2007, 12:17 PM   #9
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never had a problem with the washer trick personally.....

The only thing(s) about flipping the axle backwards that I do not like, is that it does not allow you to go as vertical on a 2.2 and would make it a pain to backup at times.. I was going to try it on my last truck, but the cons outweighed the pros to me, but that is for a comp truck..
Yeah i'm not too picky about the approach and departure angles on this rig because it's a scale 1:6, not a comp rig. i would rather have the axle the way it's designed to be but the motor will hit the frame at full stuff so i had to flip it around. What size washers did you guys use? I may try it and see how it holds up. If i snap the axle somehow, then i got a reason to upgrade
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Old 05-04-2007, 01:55 PM   #10
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They are grade 8, 1/2" washers from Home Depot(in the slide out bins)
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Old 05-04-2007, 02:56 PM   #11
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never had a problem with the washer trick personally.....

The only thing(s) about flipping the axle backwards that I do not like, is that it does not allow you to go as vertical on a 2.2 and would make it a pain to backup at times.. I was going to try it on my last truck, but the cons outweighed the pros to me, but that is for a comp truck..
See I was the opposite. All I did was grind off that rear bolt and slap on some 2.2 Jordans and all is good. The point at were my motor was hitting on my old stock mashers was about the same point that I would have flipped over backwards. I never had it hinder my crawling. I'd rather have it be in the back to slide of the rocks then to be in the front to hit and hang up on them.
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Old 05-04-2007, 05:16 PM   #12
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I just got the 1/2 grade 8 washers and stuck them on. I noticed that i can still turn the tie rod about 1/4" with a little effort. Do or did you guys have some play in the steering when you used washers as steering locks?
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Old 05-04-2007, 09:37 PM   #13
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nope, no play at all...........



r2j...My old truck can stand against a wall and not roll backward, so that was hurting me..When I tried to go vertical, it would slide up on the rear axle and lift the rear tires off the ground.. And with clodstall, that didn't help matters

To each his own setup
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