1st Thread, 1st Crawler, all metal.
 

Hey whats up guys this is my first crawler and I knida just wanted to keep the stock concept so being a Tamiya fanatic and not wanting a 3spd I bought the CR01. I have the 3pk futaba fasst and since that remote holds up to ten cars this was the main reason I went with the CR-01. Ive probably read every thread and seen every youtube vid so I think im ready to go forward with it and start the build. Living in Miami we dont have competitions just smooth grounds unless I pile some rocks so basically this wont see the outside wilderness but im hoping to have some fun with it. 3racing drive shafts are on order along with another set of beadlocks, didnt know I needed 8 total until I built the first two wheels. Everything else is in the pics. I will try to take more as I go so this may take a week or two depending on what I run into.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...g/P9300168.jpg
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Sorry the pics came out a little small but you can see it. Build pics will be bigger.

Hey it looks like you've got a great start on parts to get that thing moving. Cant wait to see it when finished. JUST DONT LET IT BE A SHELF QUEEN!"thumbsup"

Oh no this wont be a shelf queen. Im going to either find or make my own course. Well pics as promised.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...g/PA010170.jpg
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Wish I could afford all that bling "thumbsup"! Nice start!

^^^ Thanks! Trust me ebay can be very bad and addiciting at times.

Here are the diffs with the teamstrc rear lockout and 3racing other stuff. These spring holders are great they spring snap into place and is very sturdy.
Sorry for the fuzziness but you guys get it...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...g/PA010171.jpg

Yeah but see you've got the same trouble I have. It's not all metal, because you still have plastic axle housings. The only place that sells those is RC4WD, and I am waiting to hear from Mike about availability of them.

Although I have a lot of the 3Racing parts that you have, I opted for RC4WD parts where possible, since they looked stronger to me.

I don't need a lot of the pieces you've got, since I'm abandoning the stock spring/shock system in favour of a more traditional sprung shock arrangement, to give me more flex, and to make things simpler. I'm using RC4WD X10s with the external reservoirs, so I have to work out where to attach those to the frame. They're a little longer than the stock shocks, but that's good since I am also using a set of RC4WD Rockstar 2.2s with Rock Crushers, which are almost an inch bigger than the stock tyres.

Anyway, if like me you really want to make your CR-01 all-metal, you need new axle housings, so get in touch with Mike and see what he can do.

That looks bad A$$!!! Good luck with your build!!!:lol:

Fatwoul, I got your pm thanks for the tips and yea Ive seen some metal axle housings however the price was crazy so I decided to just stick with the plastic ones. I barely understood anything you wrote as im not familiar with the technical details of different parts but im sure I will learn them as I keep reading along. I know I might be able to get more flex ditching the canteliver setup but like I mentioned im not gonna be competing just daily fun around the yard over anything I can find. One thing I might do in the new future is switch to all hex with the titanium screw kit. These phillips heads are terrible.

Today I should start with the servo and servo beds that where I left off last night so well see. Right now its 8am in miami and im heading to work. Thanks for the inputs everyone.

lots of money in there. i hope it comes out to what you expect. you will have fun.

I got the stainless hex set from RCScrewz, and it's fantastic. I can recommend the set.

Well i went home for lunch to soder the motor wires and get the steering done within an hour. I ran into a slight problem. The hitec servo I bought keeps spinning to a point where it comes apart inside the gear housing. Seeing that the hobby store I bought it from is about 40 miles away there goes 35 bucks cause 1. I dont have the reciept and 2. even if I had the reciept I would get store credit and I need nothing from there. Oh well I found another hobby store 5 miles from my house so im getting a new one from futaba. Good thing its on the way home too.

Scuba, I hope it comes out to how I like it as well. Ive been reading tips about weights in the wheels and different swaybars so we'll see.

One thing I really want to try out is the tamiya barrel spring set I got. I think I bought an extra pack but when im done with this truck all the extras and plastic pieces (and there will be alot) are going on ebay. I like to make some sort of money back as I did with my other 2 kits and will soon with the other 2 I have left to build as well. Update will be later tonight.

More pics, took me all night but I still need to build the shocks, front bumper, drive axles, crossmembers, and do the beadlocks on the other two rims, and paint the body.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...g/PA020172.jpg
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wow, going all out on that one!

I thought I saw somewhere an aluminum servo bed and battery tray? Maybe I was looking at another model, I don't know.

Hey, did you get the normal set, or the short set? Can you feel the progressiveness of them?

I wonder how much the shorter set will lower the truck?

One way to find out I guess...

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54085

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54084

that is awsome i love the tamiya they look so real just remember go for the panther tires "thumbsup"

Lifes a rock mound crawl it:shock:

EeePee, I got the normal set not the short. I notice between the barrel set and the stock set that the barrel has more flex to it than the stock springs so it worked out great. I need to adjust some links due to the fact that when they compress the diff housings move back and front. Well see later tonight.

To be honest, I'm not a big fan of the "tamiya blue" parts. They just don't blend in. But from the engineering's perspective, I like the all metal idea. "thumbsup"

Same spring stiffness? Same color spring?

EeePee, the barrel springs and the stock springs are identical in spring rate and color. You get a set of red, yellow, and blue. The middle of the stock springs bend away from the center and can take away from flexability when you have the canti setup. Kinda like this ( .... However, the barrel springsare shaped like this () and help out alot, as one side of the spring can compress all the way and the other side can also expand meanwhile the top and the bottom of the spring stay aligned with each other. You can see it in the pic of the axle on top of the wheel. The barrel spring is shaped like this (l due to compression. I have the blue in the front and yellow in the rear as well as no sway in the back and the medium sway in the front. Front diff open and rear is locked.

Thanks man. Not that I was unhappy with how mine is set up, I do like to try things. I know that progressive rate springs can help sometimes with smaller movements, and I know how linear rate springs are typically more predictable.

Guess you haven't actually run them yet right?