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11-19-2008, 09:50 PM
| #1 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: yakima
Posts: 106
|  Canti mods that worked
I see that no one really gave these things too much of a shot so i thought i would share my success story. I wanted to make this thing work the way that i got it. When I made the wheel base longer I had to do something with the shocks. The stock setup had all of that slop and the shocks sucked. So what I did was use better longer aluminum shock in a little different position and used JB weld to get rid of the play. It completely solved the problem. No bouncing or leaking. Also the cantis offer a higher dampening rate at more compression so it doesn't flop over. It works well with tons of articulation.     |
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11-20-2008, 11:14 AM
| #2 |
| Newbie Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Germany
Posts: 38
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May I ask whether you "simply" replaced the clip with some sort of glue, or glued axle and linkage together? Thats the way it looks for me. On my CR-01 I noticed that the majority of unwanted play is in this upper axle and I planed on disassembling it and having a look at it. I might do as you and save my exchanging all the parts. Please excuse ma not-too-technical english. |
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11-20-2008, 11:22 AM
| #3 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: yakima
Posts: 106
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I just took them a apart and glued the canti levers to the hex shaft they are on. be careful not to glue the spindle to the bearing though and remember that once you do this you will have to cut them off. I just used original JB weld and it doesn't take very much. It works great now and i have quite a bit of drive time on this set up. Even been in a comp and going to another this weekend!
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11-20-2008, 01:40 PM
| #4 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 1,048
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I thought the excess chassis/body roll was spring movement. It seems the springs have a bit of movement before they actuate the cantilever. This helps eliminate this? BTW, how has your rig fared in the comps you entered? Also, did you have to JB weld the back side of the cantilever hex pin? |
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11-20-2008, 07:16 PM
| #5 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: yakima
Posts: 106
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the Jb weld is on the back too. I got in the top half with it in the comp and that was with no dig. I have another this weekend with the dig and i plan on using a small lipo on the rear axle. The JB weld gets all of that play gone.
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11-20-2008, 07:25 PM
| #6 |
| MODERATOR™   Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio
Posts: 18,928
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All the slop in the suspension is in the cantilever, or so it appears to me. And I freaking hate it! But I can't commit to JB Welding mine, though I bet replacement parts are cheap. I really wish someone would make a tighter outer piece, even if it's made of metal. Just something to get rid of the slop. It's lame! I can't figure out why I want to keep the cantilevers on there, but I do. |
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11-20-2008, 07:31 PM
| #7 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: yakima
Posts: 106
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with the cantis i still use the light sway bar in the back with the soft springs and the med in the front. It has a lot of articulation but doesnt roll over as much as when i took the thing out. it seems to be way more capable with it this way and using the sway bar.
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11-21-2008, 05:36 AM
| #8 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: norway
Posts: 81
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The only thing the cantilevers do, is to let you have the torsion bars installed in your rig - and a whole lot'ta slack/play too. There's no other reason to keep them. |
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11-21-2008, 07:56 AM
| #9 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 1,048
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Has anyone tried the aluminum cantilever arms yet? Wonder if they add any rigidity to the set up.
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11-21-2008, 02:59 PM
| #10 | |
| MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio
Posts: 18,928
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11-22-2008, 02:10 PM
| #11 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Tamworth, England.
Posts: 124
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