Iwantoffroad's CR-01 axial plates and droop setup

[iwantoffroad]

Hey guys this was my original build up
Iwantoffroad's CR-01

And this is LifeRacer's idea. I am taking no credit for it. I just liked his idea and improved upon it.
CR-01 with Axial Chassi Plates

Here is my new and improved Tamiya CR-01

Specs


Suspension
front shocks
2 holes in the piston 25 weight team associated silicone shock oil
going to put pen springs and fuel tubing soon.
rear shocks
3 holes in the piston 40 weight team associated silicone shock oil
going to put pen springs and fuel tubing soon.

Spacers under rear upper links mount on the axle
rear upper links mounted outermost rear hole.

Inboard mounted lower links

Drive train
Front drive shaft splined 2 male 1 female.
ball bearings re lubed
all drive train components lithium grease
15 degree clocked rear axle
25 degree clocked rear axle
locked axles
stock motor broken in, with water

Wheels and Tires and Steering
foam for the tires trimmed
stick on weight added to the front and rear rims
tie rod mounted in front of the axle.
drag link mounted behind the axle for a BTA hybrid setup.


Electronics
stock motor
Hitec servo Hs-625
Tamiya esc Teu-101bk
Tamiya rx Tru-02

Misc
built with loctite as instructed
foam body mounts
Servo horn protection
tlt servo plate used for a battery mount.

left to do

determine what shock oil viscosity to use.
determine what shock piston to use.
buy a smaller battery



Thanks to PinchFlat for hooking me up with two axial chassis plates for free




mock up electronics


mock up 4 link






esc mount front

I wanted to make a strut brace to tie in both shocks
to keep the chassis plates from flexing
incorporate a body post mount because I hate side body post mounts.
a place to mount the esc
and a place to mount the antenna
the mount is made out of a credit card cut up and the mount is supported on all sides.
and at the angle its at it will not interfere with the movement nor the cycling of the suspension nor the 4 link.
body mounts are from team associated rear body for the tc3 part number 8874
strut for the shocks traxxas turnbuckle part number #2339



back



rx mount

a servo post
tlt cantilever rod
tlt servo plate cut up to fit the rx.
this creates a mount for the rx
it limits the battery from coming to far into the chassis, it prevents the battery from hitting the motor,drive shaft, rx, wiring, and upper link.

[860Crawler]

At least cutting up the credit card will slow down your spending

Nice work!

[PinchFlat]

Nice... I like what you have done with all this.

[iwantoffroad]

Originally Posted by 860Crawler

At least cutting up the credit card will slow down your spending

Nice work!

860Crawler
yep
so its win win for me.
light weight and less spending.

Originally Posted by PinchFlat

Nice... I like what you have done with all this.

PinchFlat

Well worth the effort, and thanks for help.

[lowslowTJ]

If it will fit you should try moving the tie rod to the back of the steering knuckles for quick BTA. thats the setup I've got going on on my drooped CR-01 and I like the steering much better. Ackerman angle seems much better, i.e. the inside tire turns sharper than the outside tire.

my dropped and drooped CR-01

[iwantoffroad]

thanks for the tip i will try to see if the tie rod will fit behind the axle.

did you fit yours above or below the knuckles I could not really tell by the pictures.

[cartronicshn]

Nice work, do you have any pics with the fj body on it? how much did the wb change? i am really tempted on doing this to my cr-01 since i have 2 extra ax-10 chassis plates.

[flybird]

How do you mods. the skid plate ? The CR's one or the other ?

[iwantoffroad]

Originally Posted by lowslowTJ

If it will fit you should try moving the tie rod to the back of the steering knuckles for quick BTA. thats the setup I've got going on on my drooped CR-01 and I like the steering much better. Ackerman angle seems much better, i.e. the inside tire turns sharper than the outside tire.

my dropped and drooped CR-01

I tried to fit behind the axle but you would need a spacer on each side and it would need to be on the inner hole on the knuckle.
How did you mount yours?
Is it on the inner or outer hole?
Did you have to bend the tie rod at all to fit around the drive shaft?


http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/sho...285#post379285

Originally Posted by cartronicshn

Nice work, do you have any pics with the fj body on it? how much did the wb change? i am really tempted on doing this to my cr-01 since i have 2 extra ax-10 chassis plates.

thanks
I dont have any pictures with the fj body
I dont plan on using the fj body on this rig, thats
why I don't have any pictures.
The stock CR-01 wheelbase is to long for the stock
tamiya fj cruiser body if I were to shorten the
wheelbase the body would be perfect.
the wheelbase changed a little bit in my opinion
but only a bit longer. its right at about 11.5inch.
I don't rember the stock wheelbase figure but
you can measure that.

Originally Posted by flybird

How do you mods. the skid plate ? The CR's one or the other ?

Can you rephrase that question.
I used the stock CR-01 and drilled holes in the stock axial plates. It fits perfect.
I hope I answered your question.

[lowslowTJ]

Originally Posted by iwantoffroad

I tried to fit behind the axle but you would need a spacer on each side and it would need to be on the inner hole on the knuckle.
How did you mount yours?
Is it on the inner or outer hole?
Did you have to bend the tie rod at all to fit around the drive shaft?

Unfortunatly I am out of town so I cant look at the truck to check how I did the BTA. If I remember correctly I did use the inner holes on the back of the knuckels, and I dont think I needed any spacers, but I am not totally positive. I did not bend the tie rod. The tie rod fit behind the axle when I dropped the coil buckets and extraneous brackets from the top of the back of the axle. Hope this helps. Use of the inner holes on the tie rod wont effect the steering as long as you use the inner holes on both ends of the tie rod. leave the drag link (from the servo to the front of the knuckle) in the factory position, which I think is the outer hole. let me know if this helps. I will check when I get back home and have the truck.

the third picture on the thread below shows some detail of the BTA:
http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/sho...140#post331140

[iwantoffroad]

I have a BTA setup. thanks lowslowTJ
It should work great.

[iwantoffroad]

Just about done.










At full droop the driveshaft splines were barely engaged so i build a longer driveshaft.
Here is the before shot.





What I'm going to use.


Done.
And there is no binding and it can reach full droop and still be completely engaged.



lowslowTJ gave me the idea to run a BTA setup.
I tried it out and it was a tight fit but with a spacer it worked out great.




I found a fuel tubing and pen spring combination that I like.
I might cut the tubing a bit more and switch to a 1 hole piston and bump it up to 70 weight oil.



full flex.
needs improvement.

[hamnet]

This is looking great, pal

[fatwoul]

I second that. The bug looks really good on it.

[iwantoffroad]

Originally Posted by hamnet

This is looking great, pal

hamnet
thanks

Originally Posted by fatwoul

I second that. The bug looks really good on it.

fatwoul

thanks Its my old comp body I'm going to trim up the fenders because they rub at full flex.

[lowslowTJ]

Originally Posted by iwantoffroad

I have a BTA setup. thanks lowslowTJ
It should work great.

Glad I could help!

steers much better now, Huh?

[iwantoffroad]

yes it does.

I would like to try out aluminum knuckles to see if the knuckles would move less under stress.

[lowslowTJ]

Originally Posted by iwantoffroad

yes it does.

I would like to try out aluminum knuckles to see if the knuckles would move less under stress.

that would be nice!

[iwantoffroad]

that would be nice.
a great comprise of great steering and added strength.

I went to one of the comp sites I go to.
I went over to the cdm spot at sunset tonight.
It was awesome.

[lowslowTJ]

Ohhh that positive Ackerman angle looks great!