newbie in need of help!!!!!!!!

[IDnewcrwlr]

i am on step 14 of the build and am stuck. In the manual it shows that threaded shaft # BB8 is supposed to go from the servo to part # D10 and go over part # F5. For some reason i cant get the shaft to go over F5 like it shows its supposed to!!! i would really like to get this solved asap,so any info would be great. thanx........the servo is a (hitec 645mg)

[jays96xj]

if you have the threaded rodbb8 mounted to to top of the knuckel like it shows there shounldnt be any reason it wont go over f5. a picture might help. sry not much help

[IDnewcrwlr]

i have no idea how to post pics, but i think i got it figured out tho. if not then ill just have to take it apart again n try to do it right. if its not right, ill be back.......... thanks you did wat you could. my description wasnt the best either........

[TrickyNickro]

I bet the knuckles aren't at the right angle. They can be mounted at 15 or 25 degrees or something like that, I'd check those and try it again.

[IDnewcrwlr]

ok thanks, and sorry for all the questions, i have come across another little problem, im on step 24 and would imagine that the motor plate is supposed to fit flush against part # A4 but for some reason i cant get it to. :-( :-( i have taken it apart like 3 times and still cant seem to figure it out....anyone got any input? i dono how to post pics or i would, thanx...........

[860Crawler]

The motor plate issue seems to be the most common problem in the build. The reason its not sitting flush with the gearbox case is those huge bearings behind the sun gear aren't seated all the way down like they are supposed to. The might feel like they've gone on as far as they can but they need to be pressed very firmly to seat all the way down.

[Lucus]

your motor plate wont sit flush because the two larger bearings on the sun/spur gear arent seat all the way home, (the bearing parts #'s are BD7) this is a common problem people are having with this kit. It takes quite a bit of force to get the bearings to seat all the way home.

Some people have tried removing material from the bearing mounts on the gear, but unless you have a lathe is hard to do it and keep the bearing centred.
I used a 1/2" drive socket the fit over the sungear teeth, but pushed on the INNER race of the gear. Don't press on the outer race or you may damaged the bearing.

You can then gently tap the bearing down till it's all the way home.

[IDnewcrwlr]

thank you all for the advice, now hopefully i can figure it out. i just got home from work and will see if i got any time to work on it tonite, and if not ill work first thing in the morning.

[IDnewcrwlr]

I GOT IT!!! i never would have thought that that was the problem, thanx if it werent for you guys, i would prolly be stumpd forever!!! so once again, THANX!!!!!!

[Lucus]

Good work mate! How did you get the bearing fully seated?

[IDnewcrwlr]

A HAMMER!!! it seems to be fine, no apparent damages........ although i have gotten this far i think i mite have goofed on the uprights, i didnt really get that step of the build (step 11) about wat angle the front n back should be, so i just winged it and got it to fit. i have been looking through photos and mine doesnt seem to look right i guess we'll find out soon enough......

[IDnewcrwlr]

well im sure this is prolly gonna sound pretty dumb to you guys, but is the sway bar and stabilizer rod the same thing? :? :? if not where are the sway bars located, i was wanting to see how it felt w/out them, it seems like it gives alot more flex w/out them......thanx

i got one more question, i am all the way done with the build, and noticed a few things, the rear tires dont spin freely, is that normal? ok maybe two questions, when i spin the left front tire forwards, the right front tire spins backwards, that normal or did i screw up somewheres? :? :?

[860Crawler]

The sway bar and stabilizer bar are interchangeable terms, one in the same. Be forewarned, its a PITA to have to take everything back apart to install the stabilizers if you want them back on.

The rough spinning axles are normal when first put together.

Also, sounds like you don't have the pin installed to lock the differential in the axle. That would make the wheels spin in opposite directions when you turn them manually. Its not required to lock the diffs, but when you get to crawling you'll find you are getting stuck everywhere because the one wheel will stop while the wheel with less friction spins. Unlocked diffs work well if youre just going to bash around, plus it helps the turning radius. It sucks with the diffs locked, but its what you gotta do if you don't want to get stuck.

If you want to lock them the manual shows how. You have to remove the grub screw from the front of the axle then peek inside and spin the wheel until you can see the hole lined up on the drive axle. Then you have to thread in the pin provided and don't forget the threadlock or it'll come out inside your axle case when youre driving. Then put the grub screw back in the axle to keep everything clean in there.

[IDnewcrwlr]

yeah, i just saw a few people mention to leave the front diff unlocked for more pulling power up front or sumthin. ill try it and if i dont like it ill lock er up n try it again. thanks for all the advice and input. is there any way i can post pics? just wonderin.... thanx once again!!!!

[860Crawler]

Find a host to upload your pics to, like photobucket. Then you can post up your pics using the url the host attached to the pic.