04-22-2010, 11:43 PM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: San Francisco
Posts: 28
| new to the CR01 club
hey everybody, i just got a tamiya. I got it because i liked the cantilever setup and the swaybars. which is the exact reason my bud was selling it, he didnt apriceate its design. im going to go brushles in this rig, going for a formula off road style truck. so its gona see some power. wheres the weak link, i like the planetary design of the trans, and the axles look ok. any tips on driveline? whats the "limit" motor wise these rigs can handle? how fast has anyone got these rigs going? |
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04-23-2010, 01:38 AM | #2 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: vancouver, canada
Posts: 309
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i think with anything there is a limit, i wouldn't go popping in a 5.5t brushless in there, but that being said you COULD if you have a soft throttle finger.....with brushless i wouldn't go any lower than 19ish turn. this chassis shines at slow speeds, and some torque is a great addition. if you want speed, get a stadium truck i suggest. in regards to the driveline, the drive shafts are the weak link, but i think many would agree that this is cheaper and easier to replace than anything in the differentials. drive it, test it out, see what works for you. welcome to the club! Last edited by cydog510; 04-23-2010 at 02:48 AM. |
04-23-2010, 02:23 AM | #3 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Tamworth, England.
Posts: 124
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The stock driveshafts are made from chocolate and twist and snap very easily. I use traxxas #1951 drive shafts and traxxas metal yokes. The traxxas do still twist at times but not very often. It is better to have a weaker link that is easy and cheap to replace. By the way I run a novak goat 18.5 brushless in my CR based comp crawler with a 13 tooth pinion.
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04-23-2010, 11:14 AM | #4 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: outside reading, pa
Posts: 145
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Before i start, let me say that just like my 1:1, im pretty hard on my r/cs. If i cant break it, it probably cant be broken With my HH 35t +18t pinion i broke 3 of the stock axle shafts; the reinforced are holding up though. As mentioned the driveshafts suck, Traxxas is the way to go. Get some AL axial hexes theyre a direct fit (& cheap) and you wont strip those. I also think i just blew my second set of rear r&p so im going to open it up in a little bit and see whats making crunchy noises in there. The r&p is what bothers me, i dont like they way they mesh, and two broken sets in under a year doesnt give me the warm fuzzies. Forget about the trans, i cant see it being possible to deal any damage to it, unless you run the wrong pitch pinion, or dont mesh it properly. |
04-23-2010, 02:46 PM | #5 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 1,048
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I'm surprised youre having issues with the R&P. I just opened up my axle and it was pristine inside, even the grease was still white.
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04-23-2010, 04:38 PM | #6 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Tamworth, England.
Posts: 124
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I too have done 1 set of ring and pinions, which was the set in the front axle. I put it down to very grippy tyres and using the dig alot on my comp CR.
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04-24-2010, 08:16 AM | #7 | |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: outside reading, pa
Posts: 145
| Quote:
Im getting pretty good, yesterday i had the rear axle out, apart, and new r&p installed in about 20-25 minutes. Only stopped cuz i ran out of grease Last edited by low_range; 04-24-2010 at 08:18 AM. | |
05-02-2010, 09:53 PM | #8 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: NAU, Flagstaff
Posts: 60
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Hmmm I don't know why everyone is having problems with their drive shafts. Mine are pristine, and I'm running a 55T motor. (Knock on wood) |
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