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06-21-2010, 10:12 AM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: west sacramento
Posts: 282
| mog build...looking for advice.
cr01 newb . it should be here anyday now. i searched the forum, but still need help. does it need anything upgraded from the start? i do wanna leave stock. for now, learn it, then upgrade. what i mean is, i dont want hit the trail, break something, then be standing therei'll be the 1st guy in our group with a cr01 so were all new to it. thanks in advance for the help kurt |
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06-21-2010, 10:44 AM | #2 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: vancouver, canada
Posts: 309
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this is a good build thread, worth a read: http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94867 |
06-21-2010, 02:27 PM | #3 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Eagle Mountain
Posts: 50
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The CR-01 is pretty tough right out of the box. Weakest link is the drive shaft, there are plenty of options (and opinions will vary). Beyond that two simple (and cheap) suggestions. 1) Zip-tie mod for your cantilevers 2) Don't skimp on the thread-lock |
06-21-2010, 02:30 PM | #4 | |
MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio
Posts: 18,928
| Quote:
Here ya go: EeePee's CR-01 | |
06-21-2010, 10:35 PM | #5 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Perth Australia
Posts: 2
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Changing the drive shafts to something more robust is the first thing that you should do. I have had my CR01 for a few weeks and have already smashed the two spare that come in the box and i havent even driven it in anger. |
06-22-2010, 07:44 AM | #6 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: tits
Posts: 29
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you dont NEED to upgrade your drive shafts unless you drive it like a comp rig. i beat the piss outta mine on a trail all day and if you bind it up youll break them but dont stick your tire under a rock and try to drive through it and your fine
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06-22-2010, 12:27 PM | #7 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 1,048
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Yeah, mine took a good year before I even twisted one, and that was with trail driving and local scale comps. But once the first one went it, I tore through the rest pretty quickly, in a matter of a couple months. Its the luck of the draw. You should have some fun with it though. I went from stock, through various changes here and there with suspension, etc. now its back to nearly stock (just using Tamiya hop-up parts) and I'm having a blast with it. |
06-22-2010, 07:46 PM | #8 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Australia
Posts: 52
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Doing a shaft is better that having to put a new axle in. |
06-22-2010, 10:42 PM | #9 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Perth Australia
Posts: 2
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Good point about the axles. I was wondering what the next weakest link will be. I guess I will find out soon enough.
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06-23-2010, 10:15 AM | #10 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: NRV
Posts: 958
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weak link in the CR-01 stock drive train is the plastic splines where the two ends connect. I've found that with aftermarket shafts the weak link is still in the shafts but it's now the set screws & linking pins that fail. I've only used Tamiya carbon steel & Junfac. Out of those two, I would recomend Tamiyas. But as others have said, the plastic ones can go for a while if you don't bind the wheels. In addition to trying to power a stuck tire out, running it on carpet or in sand puts a lot of strain on the drive train. I always build trucks stock, run them and then start upgrading. That said, sooner or later you'll be buying drive shafts, you might want to get a set so you have them when you need them. |
06-23-2010, 11:45 AM | #11 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: vancouver, canada
Posts: 309
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i fully agree with DRW-FJ40, you WILL need em eventually, might as well order them up now seeing as shipping from HK takes a bit. i go the GPM steel ones and am satisfied with $21 including shipping: http://cgi.ebay.com/GPM-STEEL-MAIN-S...item2eaafde014 if you have the money, as far as i have read, the tamiya ones are the bees knees. build it, drive it, then change what you want, it is truly a fantastic chassis. |
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