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Thread: mog build...looking for advice.

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Old 06-21-2010, 10:12 AM   #1
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Default mog build...looking for advice.

cr01 newb . it should be here anyday now. i searched the forum, but still need help. does it need anything upgraded from the start? i do wanna leave stock. for now, learn it, then upgrade. what i mean is, i dont want hit the trail, break something, then be standing therei'll be the 1st guy in our group with a cr01 so were all new to it.

thanks in advance for the help

kurt
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Old 06-21-2010, 10:44 AM   #2
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this is a good build thread, worth a read:
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94867
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Old 06-21-2010, 02:27 PM   #3
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The CR-01 is pretty tough right out of the box. Weakest link is the drive shaft, there are plenty of options (and opinions will vary). Beyond that two simple (and cheap) suggestions. 1) Zip-tie mod for your cantilevers 2) Don't skimp on the thread-lock
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Old 06-21-2010, 02:30 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cydog510 View Post
this is a good build thread, worth a read:
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94867
Pffft, too short and not on RCC.

Here ya go: EeePee's CR-01

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Old 06-21-2010, 10:35 PM   #5
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Changing the drive shafts to something more robust is the first thing that you should do.

I have had my CR01 for a few weeks and have already smashed the two spare that come in the box and i havent even driven it in anger.
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Old 06-22-2010, 07:44 AM   #6
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you dont NEED to upgrade your drive shafts unless you drive it like a comp rig. i beat the piss outta mine on a trail all day and if you bind it up youll break them but dont stick your tire under a rock and try to drive through it and your fine
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Old 06-22-2010, 12:27 PM   #7
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Yeah, mine took a good year before I even twisted one, and that was with trail driving and local scale comps. But once the first one went it, I tore through the rest pretty quickly, in a matter of a couple months. Its the luck of the draw.

You should have some fun with it though. I went from stock, through various changes here and there with suspension, etc. now its back to nearly stock (just using Tamiya hop-up parts) and I'm having a blast with it.
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Old 06-22-2010, 07:46 PM   #8
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Doing a shaft is better that having to put a new axle in.
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Old 06-22-2010, 10:42 PM   #9
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Good point about the axles. I was wondering what the next weakest link will be. I guess I will find out soon enough.
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Old 06-23-2010, 10:15 AM   #10
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weak link in the CR-01 stock drive train is the plastic splines where the two ends connect. I've found that with aftermarket shafts the weak link is still in the shafts but it's now the set screws & linking pins that fail. I've only used Tamiya carbon steel & Junfac. Out of those two, I would recomend Tamiyas.

But as others have said, the plastic ones can go for a while if you don't bind the wheels. In addition to trying to power a stuck tire out, running it on carpet or in sand puts a lot of strain on the drive train.

I always build trucks stock, run them and then start upgrading. That said, sooner or later you'll be buying drive shafts, you might want to get a set so you have them when you need them.
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Old 06-23-2010, 11:45 AM   #11
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i fully agree with DRW-FJ40, you WILL need em eventually, might as well order them up now seeing as shipping from HK takes a bit. i go the GPM steel ones and am satisfied with $21 including shipping: http://cgi.ebay.com/GPM-STEEL-MAIN-S...item2eaafde014
if you have the money, as far as i have read, the tamiya ones are the bees knees. build it, drive it, then change what you want, it is truly a fantastic chassis.
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