My CR-01 build (detailed)

[JD and Beastlet]

1. Introduction and preparation
2. Parts bag A - steps 1 to 11
3. Parts bag B - steps 12 to 15
4. Parts bag C - steps 16 to 20
5. Parts bag D - steps 21 to 32
6. Trimming, masking and painting - step 33
7. Remaining body - steps 34-37

Hello from Ottawa, Ontario, Canada and welcome to my Tamiya CR-01 Land Cruiser build thread.

I am brand new to crawling... I haven’t owned anything radio controlled since I built a Tamiya Hornet back in the eighties.This is a hobby that really appeals to me and I’ve been thinking about getting into it for a while. My wife and I do a lot of camping with our six-year-old daughter and I thought that a crawler would be fun to bring along. I chose the CR-01 for a number of reasons.

• I wanted something slow that could be enjoyed almost anywhere
• I wanted a kit with lots of parts... building is (at least) half the fun!
• I’ve built Tamiya stuff in the past and I really like the way their kits go together
• I watched a few videos and I’m impressed with the performance
• I like the way it looks
• I’m more interested in recreation than competition

A Great Hobbies store opened in our neck of the woods in December and that’s where I purchased the CR-01 kit and almost all of the components and supplies. My wonderful wife went to them for the BNF Hobbyzone Super Cub LP she got me for Christmas, but that’s another thread. ;)

During the build I took a lot of pictures. I thought about lumping the whole thing in a single post... too big. I thought about one post per step... too many. The best option remaining was to break it down into fair-sized chunks, so that’s what I decided to do.

All of my build pics are posted together in one Flickr set. Most appear here in this thread with the captions beneath them. The pictures and captions are clickable - they launch a full-sized picture in a separate window or tab. And any time I have additional comments, they appear below the caption for that picture.

Please also note that although I disagree with some of the wording, I am using the step titles specified in the Tamiya manual for the sake of consistency.

Without further ado:


Tamiya Land Cruiser
Love that box art!



What's in the box
Based on what’s in the manual, there are 1005 parts in the box... not including the manual itself.



The book
The manual is also available online.



The tools
Not shown: Large phillips screwdriver, toothpicks, tweezers, soldering iron (and accessories), wire stripping tool, magnetic wristband.

[JD and Beastlet]

1. Introduction and preparation
2. Parts bag A - steps 1 to 11
3. Parts bag B - steps 12 to 15
4. Parts bag C - steps 16 to 20
5. Parts bag D - steps 21 to 32
6. Trimming, masking and painting - step 33
7. Remaining body - steps 34-37

Step 1 - Link mount


Step 1 (link mount) - parts



Step 1 (link mount) - completed


Step 2 - Attaching link mount


Step 2 (attaching link mount) - parts and hardware



Step 2 (attaching link mount) - completed


Step 3 - Mechanism deck


Step 3 (mechanism deck) - parts and hardware
Forgot to take a picture of the completed mechanism deck... but you see it between the frame rails in the next step.


Step 4 - Ladder frame


Step 4 (ladder frame) - parts and hardware



Step 4 (ladder frame) - completed
There's the mechanism deck on the right. And the manual doesn't mention it, but it's a big help to stick some scotch tape over the nuts that are dropped into the slots of the battery case and the mechanism deck. Otherwise they'll just fall out... and they're tiny.

I dropped a number of small parts during this build. I found every single one... I’m guessing divine intervention.


Step 5 - Drive shaft


Step 5 (drive shaft) - parts and hardware



Step 5 (drive shaft) - completed
Note the holes on the far end of the longer shafts. More on that in step 7.


Step 6 - Differential gear


Step 6 (differential gear) - parts and hardware



Step 6 (differential gear) - completed


Step 7 - Axle housing


Step 7 (axle housing) - parts and hardware



Step 7 (axle housing) - completed
Everything went fine until I fastened the axle housings together. At that point the gears, which had previously run smoothly, began to bind and chatter. I did some research and found out that the gears turned freely when the differential locking pin was removed, because the pin was pulling the ring and pinions gears too close together. Some folks had success with backing the pins out a bit, but that didn't help me. Remember the holes in the shafts in step 5? I drilled those out a little larger and that solved the problem.


Step 8 - Attaching suspension mount


Step 8 (attaching suspension mount) - parts and hardware



Step 8 (attaching suspension mount) - completed
Be careful on this step. The axles, attachments and hardware all have to be facing the correct way, and the nuts and bolts need to go in the correct holes. There are endless combinations and only one of them is right. Don’t ask me how I know. :p


Step 9 - Coil spring mount


Step 9 (coil spring mount) - parts and hardware



Step 9 (coil spring mount) - completed


Step 10 - Upright


Step 10 (upright) - parts and hardware



Step 10 (upright) - completed


Step 11 - Attaching uprights


Step 11 (attaching uprights) - parts and hardware



Step 11 (attaching uprights) - completed

[JD and Beastlet]

1. Introduction and preparation
2. Parts bag A - steps 1 to 11
3. Parts bag B - steps 12 to 15
4. Parts bag C - steps 16 to 20
5. Parts bag D - steps 21 to 32
6. Trimming, masking and painting - step 33
7. Remaining body - steps 34-37

Before step 12 could be started, I needed to pick up the remaining parts for the truck. They are:

• Transmitter - Futaba 2PL 2.4
• Receiver - Futaba R603GF (bundled with transmitter)
• Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) - Novak Rooster Crawler
• Motor - Novak 55t (bundled with ESC). I had originally intended to buy the ESC by itself but at the time it was only available with the motor, and that didn’t add much to the price.
• Servo - [url=http://www.hitecrcd.com/products/analog/premium-sport/hs-645mg.html]HiTec HS-645MG
• Charger - Duratrax Onyx 100 AC/DC peak charger
• Battery - Duratrax DTXC2149 4600 mAh 7.2V NiMH
• Polycarbonate paint - Tamiya PS-7 orange, PS-1 white, PS-5 black and PS-31 smoke
• Acrylic paint - Tamiya TS-17 aluminum silver
• Liquid mask, thread lock, polycarbonate scissors

More components, tools and supplies



Speed controller / motor combo, orange paint


Step 12 - Checking R/C equipment


Step 12 (checking RC equipment) - parts and hardware



Step 12 (checking RC equipment) - complete


Step 13 - Steering servo


Step 13 (steering servo) - parts and hardware



Step 13 (steering servo) - completed


Step 14 - Attaching steering servo


Step 14 (attaching steering servo) - parts and hardware



Step 14 (attaching steering servo) - completed


Step 15 - Attaching rear tie-rods


Step 15 (attaching rear tie-rods) - parts and hardware
At this point it occurred to me to make use of my magnetic wristband, also an awesome gift from my wife. Very handy.



Step 15 (attaching rear tie-rods) - completed
Four-wheel steering can be added as an option at this point. I’m sticking with stock in this regard, at least for now.

[JD and Beastlet]

1. Introduction and preparation
2. Parts bag A - steps 1 to 11
3. Parts bag B - steps 12 to 15
4. Parts bag C - steps 16 to 20
5. Parts bag D - steps 21 to 32
6. Trimming, masking and painting - step 33
7. Remaining body - steps 34-37

Step 16 - Attaching axle housing


Step 16 (attaching axle housing) - parts and hardware



Step 16 (attaching axle housing) - suspension compressed



Step 16 (attaching axle housing) - suspension extended


Step 17 - Damper


Step 17 (damper) - parts and hardware



Step 17 (damper) - completed


Step 18 - Damper oil


Step 18 (damper oil) - parts and hardware



Step 18 (damper oil) - completed


Step 19 - Attaching spring


Step 19 (attaching spring) - parts and hardware



Step 19 (attaching spring) - completed


Step 20 - Attaching dampers


Step 20 (attaching dampers) - parts and hardware



Step 20 (attaching dampers) - parts and hardware

[JD and Beastlet]

1. Introduction and preparation
2. Parts bag A - steps 1 to 11
3. Parts bag B - steps 12 to 15
4. Parts bag C - steps 16 to 20
5. Parts bag D - steps 21 to 32
6. Trimming, masking and painting - step 33
7. Remaining body - steps 34-37

Step 21 - Propeller shaft


Step 21 (propeller shaft) - parts and hardware



Step 21 (propeller shaft) - completed


Step 22 - Planetary gear


Step 22 (planetary gear) - parts and hardware
The sun gear and outer gear appear in this photo by mistake; they are not actually used until steps 23 and 24.



Step 22 (planetary gear) - completed


Step 23 - Attaching planetary gear


Step 23 (attaching planetary gear) - parts and hardware
The outer gear shown with the parts and hardware for step 22 is used here.



Step 23 (attaching planetary gear) - completed



Step 23 (attaching planetary gear) - view inside


Step 24 - Attaching motor


Step 24 (attaching motor) - parts and hardware
At first I planned to use the original motor. Note the three capacitors soldered to the motor - they were included with the Novak ESC to prevent interference.



Sun gear used in step 24
Here’s the sun gear shown with the parts and hardware in step 22. Note the wider part on the bottom of the shaft - the two bearings (BD7) with shim (BD16) between had to be pressed onto the sun gear for it to fit inside the gear case. This was not specified in the manual.



Step 24 (attaching motor) - pressing bearings onto sun gear shaft)
I used two sockets in a large C clamp to press the bearings onto the sun gear shaft - a long 11/16” for the bearing side and a short 9/16” to distribute the load on the outer side.



Sun gear properly inserted into gear case
This is how the sun gear looks when it’s fully inserted into the gear case.



Step 24 (attaching motor) - completed
When the sun gear fits properly the motor plate (BD-11) will fit properly into the gear case.


Step 25 - Gear case


Step 25 (gear case) - parts and hardware



Step 25 (gear case) - completed


Step 26 - Attaching motor

Yes, this step does have the same name as step 24.


Step 26 (attaching motor) - parts and hardware



Step 26 (attaching motor) - complete



Step 26 (attaching motor) - bottom view


Step 27 - Attaching R/C unit


Step 27 (attaching rc unit) - complete



Step 27 (attaching rc unit) - from top



Step 27 (attaching rc unit) - receiver



Step 27 (attaching rc unit) - ESC from rear



Electronic speed controller


Step 28 - Cross member


Step 28 (cross member) - parts and hardware



Step 28 (cross member) - complete


Step 29 - Attaching cross member


Step 29 (attaching cross member) - parts and hardware



Step 29 (attaching cross member) - complete


Step 30 - Wheel assembly


Step 30 (wheel assembly) - parts and hardware
There are eighty screws here. EIGHTY. I recommend using a power driver on the lowest torque setting.



Step 30 (Wheel assembly) - complete


Step 31 - Attaching wheels


Step 31 (attaching wheels) - parts and hardware



Step 31 (attaching wheels) - complete



Obligatory articulation shot


Step 32 - Installing battery


Step 32 (installing battery) - parts and hardware



Step 32 (installing battery) - complete


Now the mechanical part is done. A brief run in the house to make sure everything works... then on to the body!

[JD and Beastlet]

1. Introduction and preparation
2. Parts bag A - steps 1 to 11
3. Parts bag B - steps 12 to 15
4. Parts bag C - steps 16 to 20
5. Parts bag D - steps 21 to 32
6. Trimming, masking and painting - step 33
7. Remaining body - steps 34-37

Step 33 - Trimming and painting body

This is a big step, so I’ve split it into three... Trimming, masking and painting.

Trimming


Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - trimmed
Though the manual shows the body being painted before trimming, I chose the opposite order based on some advice I received. I bought polycarbonate scissors for this step but after a little research I decided to tackle it with a utility knife. I used a fresh blade segment and scored lightly along the seam lines... and with a little folding back and forth the waste separated cleanly.



Brad point drill bit for body holes
Now for the holes. I don’t have a reamer so I decided to use brad point drill bits. The centre point is great for locating the holes and the spurs cut the side cleanly. I started by spinning the bit with my fingers, then chucked it in a small hand-operated drill I have.



Body hole
Nice neat holes.



Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - body mounted
A little test fit... perfect.


Masking


Suggested masking of roof
This is the method shown in the manual. I had too much trouble getting the tape into the seams.



Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - roof template cut
I decided to use cardstock, tape and liquid mask. First step - cardstock template, a bit smaller than the roof so I could tape around it.



Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - roof template masked in
Second step - taping it in.



Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - cardstock mask, masking tape and liquid mask
Third step - liquid mask to the edges.



Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - masking the fenders
Using masking tape to define the lines of the liquid mask works well... as long as you peel the tape off right away.



Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - outlined windows
I used a pen to outline the windows... a suggested technique for helping to place the window masks.



Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - windows masked, front
Masking complete - time to shoot paint!


Painting

I used Tamiya paint for polycarbonate. It has a very strong smell so make sure you’re working in an area with adequate ventilation. For me that meant my basement workshop with a box fan drawing air out of an open window, and the furnace turned off to avoid the spreading fumes throughout the house. I wore a dust mask but it didn’t do much to keep out the smell. A proper respirator would have been much better but for the little exposure I got I wasn’t worried.

I’ve never spray-painted polycarbonate before so I did a little research. Two forum posts proved very helpful... props to prestonlal and Willystylz. One of the tips sped up the job considerably... use of a blow drier between coats.



Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - Set up for painting
My basement workshop, where I’m doing the painting. As you can see, I shot this photo when I was just about done.



Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - ventilating the workshop



Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - keeping the paint warm


First part - body colour


Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - base orange coat, front


Second part - roof and inner coat


Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - white paint in


Third part - fenders and bumper


Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - liquid mask all removed
The liquid mask came off pretty easily. I used my fingernails to get the stubborn bits, and I wiped the transparent parts with a damp microfibre cloth to remove and residue. The dusting of orange visible where the mask has been removed is overspray on the protective film covering the outside of the body.



Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - Rear fenders and bumper painted
At this point I’ve removed the window masks as well.


Fourth part - windows


Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - windows tinted
I wasn’t sure how well this would work but I was amazed at the effect - I gave it three light coats for a light tint.


Painting complete!


Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - painting complete
The body painting is complete. For a first effort I’m very pleased with the results.



Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - a peek under the film
I couldn’t resist a peek under the protective film. It’s like night and day!



Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - protective film off
The next morning the three of us peeled off the protective film together. Love that gloss... it’s like the paint has 50 layers of clearcoat.



Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - test fit

Next step... stickers.

[JD and Beastlet]

1. Introduction and preparation
2. Parts bag A - steps 1 to 11
3. Parts bag B - steps 12 to 15
4. Parts bag C - steps 16 to 20
5. Parts bag D - steps 21 to 32
6. Trimming, masking and painting - step 33
7. Remaining body - steps 34-37

Step 34 - Marking

When I first opened the box and saw the sticker sheet with its pale blue backing I assumed they were water-release decals of the type you’d find in a plastic model kit. Wrong! Well, at least they’d be scored for easy removal. Wrong again! You have to cut each sticker out individually. Note also that some of the stickers are very finicky.

To start with I’m only going to apply the stickers specified in the manual - the ones that make the body look like a stock Land Cruiser. The sponsor stickers can wait.


Step 34 (marking) - parts



Step 34 (marking) - complete
Some of the stickers went on well and some, not so well. I did the best I could and I’m satisfied with the results.

Some tips:

• The instructions state that you should cut right along the coloured edge of the sticker. This is a good idea.
• I did all the straight lines with a utility knife and a 6” metal ruler placed upside down. That worked very well.
• I did all the curved lines with a pair of curved-blade polycarbonate scissors. That also worked very well.
• I did most of this work hunched over my desk in several separate sessions. I had to remember to stop and stretch every now and then.

My least favourite part of the build. Glad it’s done.


Step 35 - Attaching taillights

I might purchase and install the LEDs later. For now it’s just a matter of attaching the stock parts to the body.


Step 35 (attaching taillights) - parts and hardware



Step 35 (attaching taillights) - completed


Step 36 - Attaching front grille


Step 36 (attaching front grille) - parts and hardware



Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - Paint the grill and signal lights
I painted the grill and signal lights while still on the sprue. I used a small pair of vise grips so I could paint both sides. I covered the vise grips with a shop towel while painting.



Step 33 (trimming and painting body) - Drying the grill
The vise grips made it handy to hang the rack for drying, too.



Step 36 (attaching front grille) - light buckets



Step 36 (attaching front grille) - grill and signal lights



Step 36 (attaching front grille) - mirrors


Step 37 - Attaching body


Completed - three quarter front passenger side



Completed - passenger side



Completed - three quarter rear passenger side



Completed - rear



Completed - three quarter rear driver's side



Completed - driver's side



Completed - three quarter front driver's side



Completed - front

Stock build... done!

Time estimates:
Mechanical and electrical - 10 hours
Trimming and masking - 2 hours
Painting - 2 hours
Stickers - 4 hours
Total - 17 hours

[cydog510]

fantastic documentation! thanks for this, i think it should be stickied!

[DRW-FJ40]

Very nice build thread. Anyone building their first Cr01 would find this helpful

[cydog510]

agreed, now get it dirty!

[DRW-FJ40]

I guess in Ottawa that could be a while.

[JD and Beastlet]

It's supposed to go up to -5ºC (21ºF) tomorrow. That should be good enough.

[cydog510]

oh man, i did not consider that! hey, it's great on snow!

[DRW-FJ40]

Originally Posted by JD and Beastlet

It's supposed to go up to -5ºC (21ºF) tomorrow. That should be good enough.

Man, I feel like a wimp. Yesterday it got above 40 degrees (F) & that's the first I've been out since last fall.

[bryco13]

Awesome job! I've been looking into a cr-01 kit for a while, and I love the tamiya kits for their builds. How is it durability wise? My cars have a tendency to spend some time on their roofs...

[cydog510]

it's a tough chassis, just upgrade the drive shafts and your good to go.
p.s we need this thread locked and stickied!

[JD and Beastlet]

Originally Posted by bryco13

Awesome job! I've been looking into a cr-01 kit for a while, and I love the tamiya kits for their builds. How is it durability wise? My cars have a tendency to spend some time on their roofs...

This one is super slow and easy to control. So far I have a couple of hours on mine and nothing is broken... not even the driveshafts ('course, that's in snow). The stock shocks are cheap and have been known to leak... I think one of mine has emptied itself. Doesn't seem to make much difference in the ride.

Mine has been on its sides and roof more than once. Nothing has broken and there are no issues with the body.

[Pathung]

During my build, I noticed that the front axle required a hub that tilted 15 degrees inward (toward center of chassis), while the rear end required a 25 degree tilt; there were two possible positions, so I chose the more extreme angle for the 25-degree. Did you have any issues with this?

It took me a while to realize that the two bearings had to be pressed onto the sun gear in the tranny; I read and re-read the instructions, till I eventually figured it out.

Great posts! Thanks.

[federally]

I'll be pickijg up a CR01 in the near uture and this thread was great. I really know what I'm getting into now build wise. It's been over a decade since I put together a kit lol

[JD and Beastlet]

Originally Posted by federally

I'll be pickijg up a CR01 in the near uture and this thread was great. I really know what I'm getting into now build wise. It's been over a decade since I put together a kit lol

I'm glad it was helpful. There are lots of little parts and some will almost certainly get dropped, so it would be a good idea to clean the floor around your assembly area so you can find them.