12-06-2008, 07:29 AM | #1 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: norway
Posts: 81
| Simensays FJ40 CR-01
I'll start a new thread on this, since I acidentally deleted my previous post. Prosject info: Tamiya CR-01 Land Cruiser Novak Rooster Crawler ESC/ 55t motor combo Hitec HS-645MG High-Torque 2BB Metal Gear Servo RC4WD 2.2 MudSlingers (soft) RC4WD 100mm Scale Alu shocks with inner springs RC4WD straight axle adapters Led weights (12 oz totalt - 50% in the back) Junfac HD steering links Junfac bent lower links (for Axial) cut/drilled/tapped Junfac 55mm upper links (mounted in the back) giving me approx 2cm shorter WB Xspede alu drive shafts Cantilevers removed Modified link end mounts on the axles - they are now mounted vertically Various smaller parts used (RC4WD u bolts for the Bruiser, alu spacers, rubber spacers, custom shock mounts etc) My goal with this project, is to make a capable semi scale version of my 1:1 FJ40, and removing as many unnessecary parts as possible as well as up the performance. Chassis set up so far Here is a few drawing I made to illustrate why and how I want to mount the link ends vertically after shortening the WB: I made some test parts for the link end mounts... but will use this set up for now, maybe I should give it a name like Eepee did Although I don't want too much flex, the suspension travel is good. The orignial inner springs in these shocks (RC4WD 100 mm scale shocks) are too hard, but Mike has sent me some softer ones to try out - more on this when I get them over the weekend. I had some vinyl spray paint made in Toyota color 464 Beige (same as my 1:1 Cruiser). I can twist the body like a wet towel, and the paint wount flake off or crack...I have an idea that the body would though... It looks kinda shabby right now, before I detail the body, but you get the picture. I plan on making an interior and some custom bumpers etc... The body sits too high as of now, but will be lowered about 2 cm - I also plan to make a custom set up for mounting the body from the inside. I will update when I get the softer inner springs from RC4WD, and more work done to the body... Last edited by simensays; 12-08-2008 at 11:02 AM. |
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12-06-2008, 08:31 AM | #2 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Bunnell, Fl.
Posts: 1,292
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Nice job on the FJ!
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12-06-2008, 10:49 AM | #3 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: chicago (now in MD)
Posts: 122
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Good to see your progress. Can't wait to see the finish product.
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12-06-2008, 05:10 PM | #4 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 1,048
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Coming along nicely
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12-06-2008, 09:34 PM | #5 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,386
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interesting suspension set up.
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12-07-2008, 12:48 PM | #6 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: norway
Posts: 81
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I started working on the custom hidden body mounts, in the rear it will be a rollbar... See last pic for reference and what it will resemble in the end (I'm not cutting the body though, the pic is just to show the rollbar design) This is the look I want for my rollbar (I am making a similar one for my 1:1 rig also) Last edited by simensays; 12-08-2008 at 10:59 AM. |
12-07-2008, 06:38 PM | #7 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: norway
Posts: 81
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some quick shots... Last edited by simensays; 12-10-2008 at 03:29 AM. |
12-08-2008, 02:09 PM | #8 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: North Las Vegas
Posts: 371
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Very nice looking rig. I really like the rollbar.
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12-08-2008, 07:55 PM | #9 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Canada
Posts: 39
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Wicked work... Roll bar is dialed...
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12-09-2008, 03:03 AM | #10 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: SWEDEN
Posts: 301
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Nice work there. Need to make rollcage for my cr01 aswell soon. Have alurods but havent had time to make one |
12-09-2008, 07:57 AM | #11 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: norway
Posts: 81
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thanks for the comments. The rollbar will also work as a rear body mount. which will be hidden. It is really sturdy and will give good protection when rolling over. I plan on painting it black, but have to figure out if I need some interior mounts braced first - I wanna go for a simple interior (hollowed recaro seat and dash) to keep the top weight low. I especially think the body looks better without the stock rear body post. |
12-09-2008, 10:53 AM | #12 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: May 2008 Location: Cupertino
Posts: 88
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Nice work! Where did you get those aluminum rods? Do they come threaded? Keep us posted. Thanks. |
12-09-2008, 11:39 AM | #13 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: norway
Posts: 81
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I've used 6mm alu tube and does not come threaded. It's the same stuff I used to make the rollcage for one of my Sand Scorchers: |
12-09-2008, 06:51 PM | #14 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: South Glens Falls
Posts: 214
| Sand Scorcher...
That buggy is sick dude!! I must say that is very cool. Fantastic job!
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12-10-2008, 03:28 AM | #15 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: norway
Posts: 81
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Mock up with seats Last edited by simensays; 12-10-2008 at 03:30 AM. |
12-10-2008, 09:15 AM | #16 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Miami
Posts: 43
| How much can the front do as well? Would you be able to post more flex shots. Im trying to do something similar with the same shocks because the stock cantiliver setup restricts alot. Also all my friends have axials and the course were gonna do is a bit extreme. Thanks. Btw, I love the way its coming out keep it up. |
12-12-2008, 02:14 AM | #17 |
Newbie Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Norway
Posts: 30
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I have tried Simensays setup with the links and you get the same flex in front and back. Just be carefull if you shorten your wheelbase, shafts and gear might have to be adjusted.
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12-12-2008, 04:26 AM | #18 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: norway
Posts: 81
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The flex is the same front/rear. If you shorten the WB, the rear driveshaft needs to be cut accoringly - but nothing else needs modding (gear, NoBrainer?). Trag - if you are gonna use these shocks, you need to get some softer inner springs, as these puppies are too hard in stock form. I recieved some softer springs from Mike (RC4WD) yesterday, and will mount and test them this weekend. I will post pics, and possibly a video of the set up then. I dont have an Axial, but I believe it's a more capable rig out of the box, so if you going up against your buddies running their AX10s, with your CR-01, don't place any money bets... |
12-12-2008, 06:28 AM | #19 | ||
Newbie Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Norway
Posts: 30
| Quote:
Quote:
But those modifications that Simensays came up with works like a charm for those who want a shorter wheelbase. You just got to find them shocks that works perfect for your setup... | ||
12-12-2008, 07:30 AM | #20 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: norway
Posts: 81
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my link geomentry and link ends has nothing to do with shortening the WB, the latter is just an additional mod I wanted for looks so that the chassis fits the body better. Over all the flex and performance is greater with these upgrades - and if you remove the cantilevers. Everybody knows that a longer (within reason) WB is optimal - but Ive only shortened the WB a tad, so I dont think I will suffer that much. I have installed the softer inner springs now, but still need to do some minor adjustments (they are slmost too soft, but nothing I cant work with). More info when I get some time tonight... |
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