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Thread: CR 01 hop ups.

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Old 02-07-2013, 08:53 PM   #1
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Default CR 01 hop ups.

Hey guys I have just bought a cruiser kit. I'm wondering whether anyone has tried the 3 racing portal drive hubs? Also I was wondering what these traxxas axles are that people are using? I have a brushless goat system sitting there and don't want to be smashing too much stuff! I was also thinking of upgrading the diff housings to the Ali 3 racing ones along with the portal axles I mentioned before. I also wanna buy the junfac shocks but I was wondering what length I should get them in? I just wanna good all round trailer/crawler I know the cr 01 might not be the best choice of truck but I wanted a tamiya and I really like the look of the cruiser and I like modding so it's ideal! These are the portal axles I'm talking about http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...8#.URRvZe4azCQ
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:24 AM   #2
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Default Re: CR 01 hop ups.

I think you mean what traxxas driveshafts are people using. If that's the case this is what I've found to be the best setup, for me anyway...
I use these output yokes: Search results :: The Crawlers Store LLC


These are the driveshafts I use: Traxxas Stampede Half Shaft Set (2 each) #1951 - The Crawlers Store LLC

They last WAY longer than the stock CR ones and they are still the weak link. I kept them to be the weak link because they are a lot easier and cheaper to replace than the planetary gear box.
By the way, do you know if those portal hubs also work as a gear reduction? I didn't even know they existed, wouldn't mind trying out a set myself...

Last edited by Gunngee; 02-11-2013 at 09:29 AM.
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:16 PM   #3
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Oh cheers mate yeah that's what I was meaning thanks for the links ill give them a go! Nah I don't think they did offer further reduction! I actually just bought an ax10 so I can leave this thing basically standard as let's be honest they are never gonna be a fantastic crawler and it would have taken too much upgrading to get it to a level I would have been happy with! Not to mention the 3s Novak ballistic crawler system I have for it would make mince meat out of the drive train!
I only really bought it cos I really like the cruiser body on it and I wanted to build a tamiya kit, I'm pretty disappointed with the articulation and suspension travel though. What parts are needed to do away with the cantilever shock setup?
I had a big hit on the cruiser last night! About 9hrs work and got it maybe 80% built! A huge amount of enjoyment building a kit like this!
Thanks for your reply.
Simon
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:19 PM   #4
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Oh no the portals do look like they further reduce axle speed! Click on the link at the bottom of my first post they look pretty good!
Simon
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:23 PM   #5
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Oh and the link to the out put yokes isn't working!
Simon
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Old 02-11-2013, 03:03 PM   #6
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Default Re: CR 01 hop ups.

Try this one:Traxxas Steel Drive Yoke Set (2 each) #4628X - The Crawlers Store LLC

Still kinda interested in those portal hubs though, a little added clearance for the diff is always good. I know what you mean, I have done tons of stuff to my CR to make it so I can tolerate it. For removing the canti-lever set up you don't NEED to buy any parts, just remove the pivots and torsion bars. I bought aftermarket shocks just so I had longer travel but it will articulate WAY better just without all that other stuff. This another thing I did for better articulation AND stability: stretched wheelbase almost done...
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:39 AM   #7
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Sweet I got them on order! As well as a set of transition shocks and Ali hex drives. The lengthened wheel base would definitely help but that would mean I can't use the best bit of the kit, the body!
I can't wait for my ax10 to get here its all setup with front and rear dig and 4WS all Ali options! I was pricing a new one would have cost me about 1500 to build to this level and I picked it up for 450 so I'm very happy! Ordering a twin hammer tomorrow they look like a lot of fun! Lots of rocks round here to play on!
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Old 02-12-2013, 04:01 PM   #8
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As the first pic shows I now realise what people are talking about when they say about the horrible steering geometry on these! Complete opposite Ackerman! Not what you want at all! It has about a 5ft turning circle! Not ideal at all! I'm thinking about setting up 4ws steer right now as I'm sure I have a spare servo around somewhere! I didn't put the diff lock pins in it when I built it but they are going in now too! Not very impressed! I wasn't expecting much but I got even less! I do like the brushless setup though nice and smooth and controllable.
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:28 PM   #9
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Well I'm a lot happier now! I pulled the original servo out of my savage to pieces and reversed it, used a y harness to plug it all in and fitted it to the rear and what a difference! I also moved the servo saver from the front to the back as the front runs a 7955 so doesn't really need the saver in this instance. I also fitted the diff lock pins and it is miles miles better. Even with both diffs now locked and the horrible steering geometry the turning circle is down to a much better (still pretty bad though) 3ft. And it actually climbs over stuff now! All I need to do now is source some paints and get the body all finished off! And once my shocks get here fit them up and ill be laughing!
I was just wondering does anyone know if there is a fix for the horrible steering geometry? I have I built it wrong or is that just how they are? I had a good look at the arms and I don't think swapping them from side to side or front to back will make any difference?
Simon
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:15 PM   #10
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You can shave the hubs and knucks, ultimately you're gonna be limited by the dog bones anyways. What I did was remove the linkage to see how far I could reasonably stress the dog bones in the cups. Then I began shaving the knuckles and hubs down wherever they were rubbing on each other. I also shaved the rod ends where they were rubbing on the axle. I can post some pics up if you like.
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:43 PM   #11
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It's not how much lock it's hot that's the problem mate its the horrible geometry. The Ackerman is completely backwards. The outside wheel turns a lot and the inside wheel turns bugger all. I was just wondering if that part of it can be improved with after market arms with the correct geometry built in. It's liveable now with the 4ws setup it's a lot better but as I found out this morning you do have to be a lot more careful and aware of it when crawling as the back end moves round as well so lines need to be thought about a lot more.
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:33 AM   #12
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Default Re: CR 01 hop ups.

I'm jealous of the brushless...

I was curious, what controller are you using? I'm running a spekrum dx5 so I can control the rear steer separately, it took a little getting used to but I love the control I have now, crabwalking comes in handy... Oh btw, I hope you used a good thread locker on those diff lock pins. Even with thread locker mine still back out once in a while.
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Old 02-14-2013, 04:37 AM   #13
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Yeaph the sensored brushless setup offers awesome control! I just have to be carefull as if I get into a bit of a bind I have to try back out and if that's not playing the game then I just have to move it by hand otherwise the brushless torque will just break stuff! I had a good play today on a bit of a rock garden and its already twisted one of the d shafts! I have the traxxas out drives and shafts you suggested on there way though as well as a set of transition shocks so that should sort it out! The 4WS is awesome for the steering lock but takes a bit of getting used to for picking ya lines.
I only run a spectrum dx3s and I just run a Y harness for the 4WS servo, I pulled the servo to bits and reversed the polarity on the motor and the trim pot to get it to swing the right way and it works very well! I removed the 7955 from the front and I'm running HPI sf50s on both ends now and they seem to be good. They are 160oz servos which appear to be doing the job nicely! I also ordered a couple of hd servo savers when I ordered my shocks so ill hook them up to make the servos life easier. But they definitely have enough torque for what I need! They are both standard servos out of my savage flux so they seem to have more than enough grunt for this wee beast! All I'm waiting on now is my paint to get here so I can get the body done and ill be all finished. The 7955 can go in my ax10 or twin hammer when it gets here. The ax10 is all modded up already with dig and 4WS(I'm stoked I found a second hand modded rig save me a lot of coin) etc this CR01 will just be my scale rig, I really like the cruiser body aye, just gotta get it mounted as low as possible so it doesn't look like so much of a clown truck!
Simon
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Old 02-14-2013, 06:30 AM   #14
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Default Re: CR 01 hop ups.

There's a thread here somewhere where someone moved the links to the rear of the knuckles. Made a ton of difference apparently. Haven't tried it myself, but it's on the list!
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Old 02-14-2013, 03:30 PM   #15
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Really? Far out that looks like it would be a huge misson alright! I dunno how you would get round everything, there is a lot of stuff in the way it would require a lot of custom parts!
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Old 02-14-2013, 07:48 PM   #16
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BTA thread with pics.

Almost free CR-01 BTA and some lightweight side plates
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Old 02-14-2013, 11:46 PM   #17
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Default Re: CR 01 hop ups.

Thanks very much for the link Duxx i couldnt find it when i searched! This is on the too do list when my shipment from TCS gets here! If i do this on both ends of the truck with the 4WS it should turn like a demon!
I like the look of the side plates he made as well but i dont believe the weight savings he claims im sorry. I reckon they would be heavier. The plastic weighs nothing and the ali chassis rails from the factory are only 2mm so there is alot less metal. Good on him though! I like the Scale-ish look of the factory chassis so ill just run it how it is. Are there any durability mods that any of you CR01 experts can suggest? As i built it i was paying close attention to everything and it all seems to be pretty solid!
Simon
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:58 PM   #18
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Default Re: CR 01 hop ups.

Center shafts....The stock ones are way soft for whatever reason. You'll find out soon enough. Wraith shafts fit perfect and work great. Other than that, it's pretty solid overall.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:12 AM   #19
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Sweet! I have a couple sets of traxxas ones on the way. I hear they are the way to go, heaps stronger but still the weak point which is fine by me as its alot easier to change the drive shafts than the planetary a or diff internals. My rear shaft is already twisted. The 3s lipo and brushless setup have probably got a bit much torque for it haha. I really like the little beast aye. Paint showed up today so ill probably get into that this weekend then ill post some pics. Just waiting on my order from tcs to arrive then ill be doing the bta conversion on both ends, fitting the new drive shafts and fitting some internally sprung transition shocks to do away with the terrible cantilever arrangement and it should be a far more capable machine. I cut the foams down pretty hard so the tires seem to bite relatively good for standard issue. I may fit the mud slingers that I ordered for the twin hammer to it and put these on the twin hammer who knows.
Simon
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:36 PM   #20
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Well it's built and the mods are at a minimum so far. I fitted the standard scx10 shocks that I had lying around they are a good fit and allow good articulation. I did bta steering link front and rear and now it's turning circle is only about 2ft so that's much better! I took the brushless setup out for my scx10 but now this thing is gutless I'm running the standard axial setup. What motor would people suggest for an upgrade? I don't wanna lose too much speed but I want lots more torque?
The body was a hell of a mission it took me longer to paint the body and fit the stickers than it did to build the rest of the truck.
I'm happy with how it looks and it even performs well. It will be interesting to compare it to my scx10 when it's finished.
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