cr-01 aluminum dampers

[royalm]

Just got them. But after building them, i cant get them to work. when i push them damper togehter they dont return like regular dampers. What em I doing wrong ? ?

[OSRC]

Won't spring back without a spring!

Stock CR01 shocks do not use springs, they are mounted on the axles. The shocks are just there for dampening - there is no spring effect like a standard coil-over.

[royalm]

omg... sorry, my first build and all that. Why did I not think about that. So they are supose to be like that good to hear. Tnx so much

[Percymon]

If you followed the build instructions and pushed the piston before capping off then you have no hydraulic pressure in the cylinder. The springs will push the damper shaft back out in running mode. If you decide to use soft springs you may have to create some resistance in the shock themselves as once the chassis is laden with heavy battery pack and body with accessories etc the springs barely support the weight. You can create the resistance by removing the shock cap, pulling the damper piston out half an inch, topping off with oil (maybe need 6-8 drops) and refitting the seal and cap. Then when the piston is fully pushed in the extra oil has nowhere to go so creates internal pressure and pushes the piston back.

They are nice shocks

[OSRC]

^^ good way to blow out shock seals too.

[Percymon]

Originally Posted by OSRC

^^ good way to blow out shock seals too.

yes if you pack them too hard

caution is the word

[GraciousOne]

Has someone actually found shocks to use on these things that don't leak after a month of use!?! I mean, when I had my Tamiya Falcon I put 1,000,000 miles on that thing, and the seals always held up fine!!!! Never leaked. Never. Same with all my buddies Tamiya buggies of that era.

I mean, stiction isn't great, but what good is having a low-stiction shock if it doesn't hold oil!?!

[Percymon]

Originally Posted by GraciousOne

Has someone actually found shocks to use on these things that don't leak after a month of use!?! I mean, when I had my Tamiya Falcon I put 1,000,000 miles on that thing, and the seals always held up fine!!!! Never leaked. Never. Same with all my buddies Tamiya buggies of that era.

I mean, stiction isn't great, but what good is having a low-stiction shock if it doesn't hold oil!?!

Well, touch wood, after a month on the shelf and 10 minutes run time mine as still OK. Assembled with green slime on every seal !

But yes its odd that amongst all my other tourers/buggies/trucks etc I've not had a single issue with Tamiya shocks, whether they be plastic CVAs, alloy Hi-Caps (vintage and re-re) or TRF items. And all those are mounted the right way up and are, in the main, filled fully extended so internal pressures in use are much higher.

[OSRC]

The stock shocks. Absolutely nothing wrong with them other than they lack bling factor. I still have my original Falcon, and the original oil is still in them. Tamiya somehow has the plastic CVA's perfected.

[GraciousOne]

OSRC - about the stock CR-01 shocks - really? I thought the stock shocks on the CR-01 were notorious for leaking... I believe you, because I know you know what you're talking about, but I must say it is contradictory to what I often hear....

BTW, I had no way of knowing one way or the other because the roller I bought had G-Transitions on it. Shafts fairly worn so I'm not expecting them to fair super well when I rebuild 'em.

[Measuredpath]

I wouldn't doubt the stockers being ok as I've had them in tamiya's for the last 2 decades, but opted to use my spare Axial aluminums . Granted I generally use plumbers tape on all threaded areas.

[Osteo]

My stock plastic shocks have not leaked yet either, but did as Measuredpath did and put a couple winds of teflon tape around the threaded sections as well as a precaution, had it in my tool bag so figured why not. Just got an email from Canada Post that they have a delivery for me, I'm thinking it is my G-transitions so will be changing them over this weekend.

[Green Meanie]

From what I read on a few forums when researching before my build the stockers do leak if built without a bit of extra caution.

One of the cautions I used was to not install the 2 O-Rings then push the Piston rod through them but rather to Put the Piston rod and valve setup in the main chamber first so it protruded the end then carefully popped the 2 O-Rings over the threaded section and slid them down and put their cap on that end.

What I read was that doing it the other way I first mentioned the thread on the piston rod can cause tears and scoring of the O-Rings and lead to leaks if you push them through like that.

I have only had about 4 hours of run time on mine yet but no problems, other than the slightest of oily film on the bit of rod that sticks out the end of the chamber