RCCrawler Forums

Destroyer · 01-23-2008, 12:45 PM

With enough work on the stock stub shafts, knuckles, and axle cases, you can achieve just as much steering as with the MIP CVD's and similar knuckle/axle mods. Granted they will not be as strong, but I never broke one of my modded stubs, even with one of JRH's cobalt pullers on 8 cells. I have since upgraded to CVD's up front purely for insurance against breakage, but gained absolutely no steering. You just have to grind the cups on the stub shaft down 1/10 to 1/8 of an inch, and then re-chamfer the edges, which you can do with either a dremel or a countersink. Then grind a slot in the axle case for the knuckle arm to fit into at full lock.

I will also add that running those huge wideners is not helping your steering one bit. While they won't physically reduce your angle, they make it MUCH harder for your servo to turn the tires due to the terrible scrub radius, which could possibly cause your servo to be unable to turn through its' full range.

-Destroyer

NICKC · 01-23-2008, 12:48 PM

Edited:

Ok, thanks for the replies. As always the help is VERY appreciated, I’m so much a newbie its almost scary but I’m learning.

EGRESSor Ill have to check back tonight, the web filters here at work are blocking your pics. Thanks for posting up though.

As for you guys talking about modifying the stock stubs; more detail please. I understand on the cup I want to shave about 1/8th inch off. No problem there, I can do that with my grinder, die grinder, or dremel. But how do I re-cut/re-bevel the inside edge? Should I just use my die-grinder with a cone shaped cutting stone? I guess if I screw one up they aren’t too much money so I can always replace them right? Edit: thanks for the post Destroyer. I think I should have all the stuff do this at home already, now just the time (who knew getting married took up so much time).

Now I’m all ears on the servo-horn, but I have to ask how can I go longer? In the first picture I posted you can see I have no room to go longer with out it hitting my tie-rod?

And fyi, tie-rod clearance is all good it doesn’t rub on the axle.

How do I adjust my EPA’s? I’m running an entry level (cheap) Futaba 2 channel controller and as far as I can tell there are no settings for end points, just trim settings which I’ve played with but that just changes the 0/neutral point. Can I open up the servo and manually adjust the EPA’s or do I have to upgrade my controller to get one with adjustable end point settings?

Thanks guys…

NICKC · 01-23-2008, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tanis

I am running TLT axles with RCP/MIP CVD's, Fat Rock stainless axle C's(notched for clearance) and aluminum knuckles from TCS(ground for extra clearance).

I looked on TCS, and the only knuckles I saw were for AX-10s.

Does anyone make a set of knuckles and axle C's already grooved and ground for the extra clearance?

PaloAltoK5 · 01-23-2008, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NICKC

Does anyone make a set of knuckles and axle C's already grooved and ground for the extra clearance?

Not yet...

talk to me at a later date....

Tanis · 01-23-2008, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LIKES2CRAWL

Don't listen to Tanis.....he dosn't know what he's talking about! Ok maybee he does

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaloAltoK5

Yeah, I agree, don't listen to him!!

err...wait...ok scratch that!! lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by NICKC

Funny you should say that, if I recall someone else told me not to listen to Tanis on the WARCRC board about a different question I asked.

So far I like what I hear from him though.

I don't know everything by any means

Nick, PM me your address, I have some TLT Maxclimber stub axles that come 1/8" shorter than the stock ones. That way you don't have to find the time to fab on yours right away.

Nathan

Tanis · 01-23-2008, 05:36 PM

Here's the knuckles I run
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/TLT-1-Alu...s-p-16240.html

NICKC · 01-24-2008, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaloAltoK5

Not yet...

talk to me at a later date....

Ill make myself a reminder, how close are you? weeks, months, several months out?

NICKC · 01-24-2008, 09:28 AM

Tanis, PM sent. Thanks, I really apprecaite everyones help.

I was able to pick up a new servo horn from my local hobby shop last night. But all he had in aluminum was 1/2" long ones. So I grabbed one, but I think I'd like to find something a little longer as I think I could go to a smaller diameter tie-rod and probably fit a 3/4" long horn on there.

Works better with the horn not slipping but I can tell now I definetly need a controller with adjutable endpoints, so while I was at the hobby shop (Covington RC Hobbies btw) I checked out controllers. They had 3 JR controllers, now I need to decide if I want to go DSM or not. DSM would be nice but the extra money is tough. Is it worth it for a recreational user at this point?

Is there a good online vendor who has better options? Dont get me wrong I try to support my local shop as often as possible, but at the same time with this big of a purchase I'm not sure I can afford not to shop around.

Big Mike · 01-24-2008, 11:28 AM

If you're running stock Blackfoot stub shafts, you'll need to shorten them up for maximum clearance.

Quote:

What iv found is dont grind any more than a 1/8'' off the end,but make sure you rebeval the drive cup

Exactly - take about 1/8" to 3/16" off the length of the drive cup. Make sure you fix the bevel so it looks like stock or else you'll get driveline input at full lock as the cups rub the shafts (bumpbumpbump)

here's a picture that should 'splain things:

If you've got money for them, MIP CVD's will turn as sharp, and are stronger and smoother running to boot.

What are you using for a transmitter?

I also modified the case of my TQ3 so the wheel could physically turn a few degrees farther either way, by shaving an 1/8" or so off of the stops. If your wheel can turn a little farther, it will tell the servo to turn farther as well. Just don't over-do it.

Swapping the stock knuckles for aluminum units from JP Custom RC's, shaving my Blackfoot stub shafts and modifying the case of my TQ3 got me full lock-to-lock steering out of my TLT axles...

Scooter_2385 · 01-24-2008, 12:06 PM

Was just gonna post a question on this subject. I was trying to decide on parts for my tlt axles and I think im gonna go with

RCP alloy locks front an rear
RCP/MIP CVD up front
MSD Ultimate C's up front
MSD straight axle in rear
RCP max clearence knuckle when there back in stock

Sorry to jack ur thread but does anyone forsee a problem with any of those parts or do they have a suggestion to a change with them? And if I get the straight axle adapter do I have to or should I get a rc4wd staight axle for the rear?

NICKC · 01-24-2008, 01:59 PM

big mike, thanks for the picture. I love pictures, they really clear things up.

no worries on the thread jack scooter. I'm interested in peoples feedback on your questions as well.

PaloAltoK5 · 01-24-2008, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tanis

Here's the knuckles I run
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/TLT-1-Aluminum-Knuckles-p-16240.html

Nathan...always copying me

....LOL j/k

Them are the same knuckles I run...

PaloAltoK5 · 01-24-2008, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scooter_2385

Was just gonna post a question on this subject. I was trying to decide on parts for my tlt axles and I think im gonna go with

RCP alloy locks front an rear
RCP/MIP CVD up front
MSD Ultimate C's up front
MSD straight axle in rear
RCP max clearence knuckle when there back in stock

Sorry to jack ur thread but does anyone forsee a problem with any of those parts or do they have a suggestion to a change with them? And if I get the straight axle adapter do I have to or should I get a rc4wd staight axle for the rear?

My Opinions...

RCP alloy locks front an rear - Not sure, but I always use the stock tlt unit with an extra spider gear and never had an issue.

RCP/MIP CVD up front - Definate must have.

MSD Ultimate C's up front - Haven't seen them, running custom Nor-cal cnc'd ones or fat rocks myself...after all, I have a Chino to help fab stuff...LOL

MSD straight axle in rear - Go with RCP's and save $5

RCP max clearence knuckle when there back in stock - Go with the TCS and save $4 and have even more clearance...

NICKC · 01-24-2008, 11:49 PM

Art I love the response, good info too have. Thanks.

Went out and bought myself a birthday present tonight. I'm still on a budget, even though I'm over budget so I just went with a XR3i transmitter. 3 channel with adjustable end points, which is about all the controller I really need. Hopefully after my fiancee's dads birthday dinner (I'm so lucky

her dad and I have the same birthday), I can make some time to set up the new controller.

On a good note, I pulled the stubs and they have already been ground.

So that saves me some work. Tanis, still send those stubs if ya would becuase with those I can pull my spacers right? And I'd like to try running with out them.

badltl510 · 01-25-2008, 12:09 AM

I don't know servos very well or know yours, but from the pics it looks to only rotate 90* Mine goes further then that maybe your servo is also causing part of the problem? Again this is just based off what I can see in the pics.

LIKES2CRAWL · 01-25-2008, 02:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EGRESSor

my TLT based with Hitec HSR 5995 TG servo 180* , 20mm servo horn , 45* steering

I just can't get over how well setup your rigs are. You have any video of your 2.2 in action?

NICKC · 01-25-2008, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by badltl510

I don't know servos very well or know yours, but from the pics it looks to only rotate 90* Mine goes further then that maybe your servo is also causing part of the problem? Again this is just based off what I can see in the pics.

With the controller it only rotates a little more then 90*, I picked up a controller with adjustable endpoints last night so hopefully tonight I can reset the end points and get more rotation out of it.

NICKC · 01-25-2008, 10:21 AM

egressor, finally got to see your pics. Nice set up you have there. What parts are you running (C's, knuckles, shafts?) Any regrets, anything you'd change?

badltl510 · 01-25-2008, 01:07 PM

Correct me if I am wrong I have never used a radio with end points, but the end points adjust how far the servo will travel. With a radio with no endpoints doesn't the servo travel as far as the servo is designed to?

Scooter_2385 · 01-26-2008, 09:25 AM

Thanx for the opinions guys. I ordered some RCP CVDs, RCP straight axle addapters, FatRock SS C's. And I'm gonna get TCS knuckles in a bit (spent a little quit a bit this week already between these parts and 2 frames)

01-23-2008, 12:48 PM	#22
NICKC Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: covington Posts: 61	Edited: Ok, thanks for the replies. As always the help is VERY appreciated, I’m so much a newbie its almost scary but I’m learning. EGRESSor Ill have to check back tonight, the web filters here at work are blocking your pics. Thanks for posting up though. As for you guys talking about modifying the stock stubs; more detail please. I understand on the cup I want to shave about 1/8th inch off. No problem there, I can do that with my grinder, die grinder, or dremel. But how do I re-cut/re-bevel the inside edge? Should I just use my die-grinder with a cone shaped cutting stone? I guess if I screw one up they aren’t too much money so I can always replace them right? Edit: thanks for the post Destroyer. I think I should have all the stuff do this at home already, now just the time (who knew getting married took up so much time). Now I’m all ears on the servo-horn, but I have to ask how can I go longer? In the first picture I posted you can see I have no room to go longer with out it hitting my tie-rod? And fyi, tie-rod clearance is all good it doesn’t rub on the axle. How do I adjust my EPA’s? I’m running an entry level (cheap) Futaba 2 channel controller and as far as I can tell there are no settings for end points, just trim settings which I’ve played with but that just changes the 0/neutral point. Can I open up the servo and manually adjust the EPA’s or do I have to upgrade my controller to get one with adjustable end point settings? Thanks guys… Last edited by NICKC; 01-23-2008 at 01:01 PM.

01-23-2008, 12:45 PM	#21
Destroyer Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: North GA Posts: 824	With enough work on the stock stub shafts, knuckles, and axle cases, you can achieve just as much steering as with the MIP CVD's and similar knuckle/axle mods. Granted they will not be as strong, but I never broke one of my modded stubs, even with one of JRH's cobalt pullers on 8 cells. I have since upgraded to CVD's up front purely for insurance against breakage, but gained absolutely no steering. You just have to grind the cups on the stub shaft down 1/10 to 1/8 of an inch, and then re-chamfer the edges, which you can do with either a dremel or a countersink. Then grind a slot in the axle case for the knuckle arm to fit into at full lock. I will also add that running those huge wideners is not helping your steering one bit. While they won't physically reduce your angle, they make it MUCH harder for your servo to turn the tires due to the terrible scrub radius, which could possibly cause your servo to be unable to turn through its' full range. -Destroyer

01-23-2008, 05:36 PM	#26
Tanis Keep it real Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Yakima,WA Posts: 6,532	Here's the knuckles I run http://www.tcscrawlers.com/TLT-1-Alu...s-p-16240.html

01-24-2008, 09:28 AM	#28
NICKC Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: covington Posts: 61	Tanis, PM sent. Thanks, I really apprecaite everyones help. I was able to pick up a new servo horn from my local hobby shop last night. But all he had in aluminum was 1/2" long ones. So I grabbed one, but I think I'd like to find something a little longer as I think I could go to a smaller diameter tie-rod and probably fit a 3/4" long horn on there. Works better with the horn not slipping but I can tell now I definetly need a controller with adjutable endpoints, so while I was at the hobby shop (Covington RC Hobbies btw) I checked out controllers. They had 3 JR controllers, now I need to decide if I want to go DSM or not. DSM would be nice but the extra money is tough. Is it worth it for a recreational user at this point? Is there a good online vendor who has better options? Dont get me wrong I try to support my local shop as often as possible, but at the same time with this big of a purchase I'm not sure I can afford not to shop around.

01-24-2008, 12:06 PM	#30
Scooter_2385 Newbie Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Luxemburg Posts: 41	Was just gonna post a question on this subject. I was trying to decide on parts for my tlt axles and I think im gonna go with RCP alloy locks front an rear RCP/MIP CVD up front MSD Ultimate C's up front MSD straight axle in rear RCP max clearence knuckle when there back in stock Sorry to jack ur thread but does anyone forsee a problem with any of those parts or do they have a suggestion to a change with them? And if I get the straight axle adapter do I have to or should I get a rc4wd staight axle for the rear?

01-24-2008, 01:59 PM	#31
NICKC Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: covington Posts: 61	big mike, thanks for the picture. I love pictures, they really clear things up. no worries on the thread jack scooter. I'm interested in peoples feedback on your questions as well.

01-24-2008, 11:49 PM	#34
NICKC Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: covington Posts: 61	Art I love the response, good info too have. Thanks. Went out and bought myself a birthday present tonight. I'm still on a budget, even though I'm over budget so I just went with a XR3i transmitter. 3 channel with adjustable end points, which is about all the controller I really need. Hopefully after my fiancee's dads birthday dinner (I'm so lucky her dad and I have the same birthday), I can make some time to set up the new controller. On a good note, I pulled the stubs and they have already been ground. So that saves me some work. Tanis, still send those stubs if ya would becuase with those I can pull my spacers right? And I'd like to try running with out them.

01-25-2008, 12:09 AM	#35
badltl510 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Salem Posts: 245	I don't know servos very well or know yours, but from the pics it looks to only rotate 90* Mine goes further then that maybe your servo is also causing part of the problem? Again this is just based off what I can see in the pics.

01-25-2008, 10:21 AM	#38
NICKC Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: covington Posts: 61	egressor, finally got to see your pics. Nice set up you have there. What parts are you running (C's, knuckles, shafts?) Any regrets, anything you'd change?

01-25-2008, 01:07 PM	#39
badltl510 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Salem Posts: 245	Correct me if I am wrong I have never used a radio with end points, but the end points adjust how far the servo will travel. With a radio with no endpoints doesn't the servo travel as far as the servo is designed to?

01-26-2008, 09:25 AM	#40
Scooter_2385 Newbie Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Luxemburg Posts: 41	Thanx for the opinions guys. I ordered some RCP CVDs, RCP straight axle addapters, FatRock SS C's. And I'm gonna get TCS knuckles in a bit (spent a little quit a bit this week already between these parts and 2 frames)

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