RCCrawler Forums

Tanis · 01-26-2008, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by badltl510

Correct me if I am wrong I have never used a radio with end points, but the end points adjust how far the servo will travel. With a radio with no endpoints doesn't the servo travel as far as the servo is designed to?

Correct.

NICKC · 01-29-2008, 01:14 PM

So just a little update. I went out and played last weekend with a buddy and the truck did alot better then at my first comp. I know getting inner c's, knuckles and shafts in there will help get me further but getting the EPA dialed in really helped as well.

Once I decide on my components I want to loose the huge spacers to get the scrub radius down as I think that should help too.

Thanks again for the help so far.

Blood_Clod · 01-29-2008, 02:47 PM

Dang! Eggressor, you've made that rig "your own" very nice work! (for you other guys click on one of his pictures and learn...

)

EGRESSor · 02-09-2008, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LIKES2CRAWL

I just can't get over how well setup your rigs are. You have any video of your 2.2 in action?

only a short clip

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZ7WEIyZkBI

PaloAltoK5 · 02-11-2008, 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EGRESSor

only a short clip

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZ7WEIyZkBI

Just one question, does your rig run better with the claws running the reverse direction that most run them in??

infernox · 02-11-2008, 01:20 AM

do i need 4 wheel steering on my tlt? or must i just change the servo horn?

PaloAltoK5 · 02-11-2008, 02:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by infernox

do i need 4 wheel steering on my tlt? or must i just change the servo horn?

2.2 Class Rules state: "Vehicles are limited to 2-wheel steering only." Rule #2.3.4

infernox · 02-11-2008, 02:28 AM

i aint in america

PaloAltoK5 · 02-11-2008, 02:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by infernox

i aint in america

Then do whatever you want. Just trying to help.

infernox · 02-11-2008, 03:43 AM

sorry man didnt mean anything bad by it. i apologise if it seemed like that.
its just im not going to take part in comps and im on a budget so a 3ch radio is out of the question right now.

PaloAltoK5 · 02-11-2008, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by infernox

sorry man didnt mean anything bad by it. i apologise if it seemed like that.
its just im not going to take part in comps and im on a budget so a 3ch radio is out of the question right now.

No worries. Most people running TLT gear don't use rear steer anyways. Many are building scale replica trucks, and you don't see many trucks on the road with rear steer, or they are building a comp style rig and if the are going to use a 3rd channel, they will use it for a "Dig" setup since rear steer isn't allowed in most events, US or Non-US. Hope this helps!

infernox · 02-11-2008, 10:06 PM

thanx man.
what can i do to increase steering. ive added tamiya 50808 wheel axles and shortened the cups and redid the bevel. will that be enought or do i have to buy other wheel hubs (knuckles)?
*please keep in mind im trying to build my TLT on a budget and build as a tutorial for other newbies.

SVEN · 02-13-2008, 08:10 PM

Depending on where your lower links are located, you can move the axle mount for them further toward the center of the axle. This gets them out of the way of the tires and allows them more room to turn.

I made a piece out of delrin to offset the lower links toward the center a little bit. You could also just drill 2 holes through the axle case in order to mount the bracket.

I am using stock inner axles and ground down stock stub shafts on my tlt. This is the amount of steering I get.

infernox · 02-13-2008, 10:09 PM

now thats decent turning angle.
ok cheap fix time: last night installed the tamiya 50808 wheel axles into my TLT which i cut and rebeveled using a dremel and DAMN my turning angle increased so much that the wheel hub (the little part sticking out onto which you install the steering linkage) actually hits the axle casing. WOOHOO

check out my TLT newby build for newbies for details.

klrp · 03-04-2008, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SVEN

I made a piece out of delrin to offset the lower links toward the center a little bit. You could also just drill 2 holes through the axle case in order to mount the bracket.

Thats great idea! Must copy..

Nova's Ark · 03-04-2008, 10:42 AM

If you buy Fat Rock axles C's, I highly recommend you do the bearing mod. I shaved my Fat Rock C's and aluminum knuckles for maximum steering with my CVD's. I would highly recommend staying away from the Yeah Racing aluminum knuckles (which are the brand pictured). The machine work is very poor. The screws are often not drilled and tapped square. I even had one with the bearing mounts not drilled square. I have owned RCP, Yeah Racing and RC4WD brand TLT aluminum knuckles. From my experience the RCP brand has been the best.

Nova's Ark · 03-04-2008, 10:45 AM

BTW, those pictures are old. I found that if I shaved the aluminum steering link, since it was solid aluminum, removed a little more from the C, and slightly clearanced the ring gear area on the axle case, I got even more turning radius.

It just takes a little time, patience and good tools.

PaloAltoK5 · 03-04-2008, 06:33 PM

No matter what, you'll max out at 45^ since that is the max the CVD's will operate smoothly at. Mine, and Tannis' are maxed, as well as many others. But you're right, to get there, you need time and tools.

Del Monte · 03-05-2008, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaloAltoK5

No matter what, you'll max out at 45^ since that is the max the CVD's will operate smoothly at. Mine, and Tannis' are maxed, as well as many others. But you're right, to get there, you need time and tools.

I'm running RCP's super-max clearance knuckles and stainless fatrock C's, and my setup maxes out the CVD's with no grinding at all

metomwhou · 04-18-2008, 07:00 AM

Man I must be doing something wrong. I've ground down the drive cups, hit them with a cone shaped grinding stone and still get driveline input(bumpbumpbump). At full lock, the knuckle arm is hitting the fatrock C, so I know I'm going in the right direction. If you turn it the other way it will pretty much turn until the knuckle hits the axle. I have no doubt that if I shaved the C, similar to the MSD's, that the knuckle would use that clearance, the problem is that i'm getting the driveline input about a 1/4" from the knuckle arm hitting the C. It seems like if I bevel it any more the drive cup will be too thin at the top. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Tom

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01-29-2008, 01:14 PM	#42
NICKC Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: covington Posts: 61	So just a little update. I went out and played last weekend with a buddy and the truck did alot better then at my first comp. I know getting inner c's, knuckles and shafts in there will help get me further but getting the EPA dialed in really helped as well. Once I decide on my components I want to loose the huge spacers to get the scrub radius down as I think that should help too. Thanks again for the help so far.

01-29-2008, 02:47 PM	#43
Blood_Clod Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Ft. Wright, KY Posts: 435	Dang! Eggressor, you've made that rig "your own" very nice work! (for you other guys click on one of his pictures and learn... )

02-11-2008, 01:20 AM	#46
infernox Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: South Africa Posts: 115	do i need 4 wheel steering on my tlt? or must i just change the servo horn?

02-11-2008, 02:28 AM	#48
infernox Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: South Africa Posts: 115	i aint in america

02-11-2008, 03:43 AM	#50
infernox Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: South Africa Posts: 115	sorry man didnt mean anything bad by it. i apologise if it seemed like that. its just im not going to take part in comps and im on a budget so a 3ch radio is out of the question right now.

02-11-2008, 10:06 PM	#52
infernox Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: South Africa Posts: 115	thanx man. what can i do to increase steering. ive added tamiya 50808 wheel axles and shortened the cups and redid the bevel. will that be enought or do i have to buy other wheel hubs (knuckles)? *please keep in mind im trying to build my TLT on a budget and build as a tutorial for other newbies.

02-13-2008, 08:10 PM	#53
SVEN I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Burnsville Posts: 3,096	Depending on where your lower links are located, you can move the axle mount for them further toward the center of the axle. This gets them out of the way of the tires and allows them more room to turn. I made a piece out of delrin to offset the lower links toward the center a little bit. You could also just drill 2 holes through the axle case in order to mount the bracket. I am using stock inner axles and ground down stock stub shafts on my tlt. This is the amount of steering I get.

02-13-2008, 10:09 PM	#54
infernox Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: South Africa Posts: 115	now thats decent turning angle. ok cheap fix time: last night installed the tamiya 50808 wheel axles into my TLT which i cut and rebeveled using a dremel and DAMN my turning angle increased so much that the wheel hub (the little part sticking out onto which you install the steering linkage) actually hits the axle casing. WOOHOO check out my TLT newby build for newbies for details.

03-04-2008, 10:42 AM	#56
Nova's Ark Tire&Foam Extraordinaire Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: C.I. Compound, Tyler, Texas Posts: 5,601	If you buy Fat Rock axles C's, I highly recommend you do the bearing mod. I shaved my Fat Rock C's and aluminum knuckles for maximum steering with my CVD's. I would highly recommend staying away from the Yeah Racing aluminum knuckles (which are the brand pictured). The machine work is very poor. The screws are often not drilled and tapped square. I even had one with the bearing mounts not drilled square. I have owned RCP, Yeah Racing and RC4WD brand TLT aluminum knuckles. From my experience the RCP brand has been the best.

03-04-2008, 10:45 AM	#57
Nova's Ark Tire&Foam Extraordinaire Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: C.I. Compound, Tyler, Texas Posts: 5,601	BTW, those pictures are old. I found that if I shaved the aluminum steering link, since it was solid aluminum, removed a little more from the C, and slightly clearanced the ring gear area on the axle case, I got even more turning radius. It just takes a little time, patience and good tools.

Sponsored Links

03-04-2008, 06:33 PM	#58
PaloAltoK5 RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Saving for Nationals!! Posts: 1,696	No matter what, you'll max out at 45^ since that is the max the CVD's will operate smoothly at. Mine, and Tannis' are maxed, as well as many others. But you're right, to get there, you need time and tools.

04-18-2008, 07:00 AM	#60
metomwhou Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Colorado Springs Posts: 606	Man I must be doing something wrong. I've ground down the drive cups, hit them with a cone shaped grinding stone and still get driveline input(bumpbumpbump). At full lock, the knuckle arm is hitting the fatrock C, so I know I'm going in the right direction. If you turn it the other way it will pretty much turn until the knuckle hits the axle. I have no doubt that if I shaved the C, similar to the MSD's, that the knuckle would use that clearance, the problem is that i'm getting the driveline input about a 1/4" from the knuckle arm hitting the C. It seems like if I bevel it any more the drive cup will be too thin at the top. Any suggestions? Thanks, Tom

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Thread: TLT Steering?