01-22-2008, 01:48 PM | #1 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: covington
Posts: 61
| TLT Steering?
Has anyone ever taken measurements on thier steering (in degrees) with TLT axles? I am running TLT axles, stock knuckles and a Hobico CS170 servo (just bought it) and I still think my steering sucks. I'm trying to figure out if I am just expecting too much, or if I've got something set up wrong. I went to my first comp and actually POINTED OUT because I had to back up and hit markers to much since my steering was so bad. So I tossed my old junk servo (it wouldn't steer to the left for some reason) and bought the TowerPro MG945 from JP Customs. Steering was improved, but still not enough power to steer it when in the rocks. So last weekend I went out and bought a CS170, havent been out to play in the rocks yet but just from playing around my back yard it seems better but still think I should be able to get more out of it. :-( I forgot my camera at home with all my pics but I will post pics tonight or tomorrow depending on what my fiancee has planned for tonight. So long story short, whats normal for steering degrees on a tlt axle?!? Last edited by NICKC; 01-22-2008 at 09:28 PM. |
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01-22-2008, 02:09 PM | #2 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2007 Location: Montucky
Posts: 254
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The stock knuckles restrict the steering pretty bad. Order some alloy ones from JP customs. That will help. Also make certain of your EPA that will cause your servo to not turn to its full potential. You can also shave a little bit of the back of your steering knuckle so it has more radius but you will end up breaking them easier. Put on some MSD C's and the JP customs alloy knuckles and never look back!
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01-22-2008, 02:43 PM | #3 |
Keep it real Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Yakima,WA
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01-22-2008, 03:10 PM | #4 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2007 Location: Montucky
Posts: 254
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Good god! Now thats some steering |
01-22-2008, 03:12 PM | #5 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: covington
Posts: 61
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EPA = end point adjustments?!? :-( (sorry newbie) I'm running a Futaba 2 channel and I don't think it has end point adjustments. Does that mean its time to upgrade? And Tanis, thats some sick steering. Guess maybe I'm just expectng to much from the stock junk. What are you running for steering/axles? |
01-22-2008, 03:14 PM | #6 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Salem
Posts: 245
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I just did some cad work with them and the max throw for a tlt cvd is 44*. This could be limited though depending on your knuckles, c's, ect.
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01-22-2008, 03:15 PM | #7 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: covington
Posts: 61
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Also one thing to add: When I pull the drag link from the servo but keep the knuckles connected via the tie-rod it steers further (ie turns sharper) then if I use the servo to turn it. So A: I don't think its that my knuckles are maxed. And B: My servo isn't giving me full sweep of my steering. Is this where the adjustable EP's come into play on the radio? |
01-22-2008, 04:06 PM | #8 |
Keep it real Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Yakima,WA
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01-22-2008, 04:09 PM | #9 | |
Keep it real Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Yakima,WA
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01-22-2008, 09:50 PM | #10 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: covington
Posts: 61
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Ok here is a picture showing the linkage how it currently is. My servo horn is stripped (stupid cheap plastic crap). I was going to pick one up from the hobbie shop here in town but I had dinner detail tonight and didn't get out in time. Damn them for wanting to go home to their families. :-P So a couple pics I took trying to show the steering throw. First steering maxed, couldn't see anything rubbing so I assume the stock axle joint is maxing out. Linkage disconnected from the servo. Second same thing but this time is using the servo. So I also went ahead and checked the throw of the servo, Using the remote to turn the servo, here's where it maxes with the linkage attached. Same thing no linkage attached. do the pictures help you guys any, what needs to be done? Edit: I also checked the voltage coming from the Rx to the servo, and its over 6volts. Last edited by NICKC; 01-22-2008 at 09:58 PM. |
01-22-2008, 09:56 PM | #11 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: covington
Posts: 61
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After reading my own post and looking at everything I know a couple obvious things. 1: my tires are not on right, I have two backwards and two forwards. 2: need a new servo horn, as its stripped. Maybe that will help because when the wheels are off the ground it turns to full max on the axle shafts but when I put it on the ground it barely turns, so I'm thinking the gear must just be spinning inside the horn. 3: my tie-rod needs a paint job. :-( |
01-22-2008, 11:24 PM | #12 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Dirty South
Posts: 4,064
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if you are running stock Axles (stub shafts and dog bones) you can grind your stub shafts down about 1/8" . just watch that at full cut the drive pin in the dog bone does not come out of the stub .
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01-22-2008, 11:59 PM | #13 |
Keep it real Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Yakima,WA
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I think the issue must be your stripped horn then, and grinding the stubs like BADD said will allow more throw as well. Get ahold of Torry(IBRACIN) on WARCRC, as he has managed to get a lot of extra throw out of his stock stub axles, with no breakage issues so far. Other solution is CVD's |
01-23-2008, 09:55 AM | #14 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: KENNEWICK, WA
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01-23-2008, 10:21 AM | #15 | |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: covington
Posts: 61
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As for the stub shafts, I can pull it apart and get pictures but I believe they are stock style extended shafts. If you look close in the pictures you can see it has spacers on the axles. Ill get ahold of torry on WaRCRC and see what he has to say. Eventaully I'd like to get some nice axle components (aluminum Cs, knuckles, and CVDs) but I've also got my real crawler torn apart and its eating my paychecks currently. When the time comes, what are you running Tanis, and which vendors did you go through? Would you do anything different? | |
01-23-2008, 10:22 AM | #16 | |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: covington
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Funny you should say that, if I recall someone else told me not to listen to Tanis on the WARCRC board about a different question I asked. So far I like what I hear from him though. | |
01-23-2008, 11:05 AM | #17 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: pasco,Wa
Posts: 639
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What iv found is dont grind any more than a 1/8'' off the end,but make sure you rebeval the drive cup,this will give alot more steering and no breakage.If you grind more than a 1/8'' youll be stressing the parts at full locke.
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01-23-2008, 11:15 AM | #18 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Saving for Nationals!!
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err...wait...ok scratch that!! lol Things I noticed:
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01-23-2008, 12:16 PM | #19 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Germany north
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01-23-2008, 12:37 PM | #20 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Cedar Rapids
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