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Thread: Tlt revo shaft conversion for pede tranny

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Old 06-16-2005, 10:56 PM   #1
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Default Tlt revo shaft conversion for pede tranny

I admit the revo shafts are a bit overkill but they also solve a few problems when installed so here we go.

Parts list.

Revo shafts #5451 2 req
Revo yoke with pins #5458 1 req
Tamiya cup joint #4720 1 req
3 mm set screws 2 req


I started by removing the 4 outer yokes from the revo shafts. The axle yolk can be tossed to the side. You want to drill all 4 yolks out to where they will slide onto the tlt axle drive cups. You dont want to drill any further than 3/8 of an inch. Any deeper could weaken the yolk. I used a .378 bit which gave a good snug fit. Next install the drive cups on the axle output shafts. Now slide a drilled yolk onto the cup joint. Make sure you have about 1/16 inch between the end of your yolk and the set screw hole. Next you want to make an identification mark on the drive cup from the SMALL hole in the yolk. Now remove the yolk and the drive cup from the axle and drill a hole through the drive cup large enough for the pin to go through. You want a tight fit here also.
The pede side is pretty much the same except for installing the cup joints on the pede output shapts The tamiya cup joints will slide over the pede output shaft and attach in the same way that the original ones do. Main diffrence is the 3mm screw that goes in the center of the drive cup has to be 1/4 in length. Remove the blue dirt seal and cut the shafts to the desired length.
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Old 06-16-2005, 10:59 PM   #2
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Here is the last pic. Hope this helps.
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Old 06-16-2005, 10:59 PM   #3
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great tut. man. HEY JASON, we should have a tutorials section for a how to types of stuff.
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Old 06-16-2005, 11:06 PM   #4
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very cool, does it preform good
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Old 06-16-2005, 11:08 PM   #5
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what are the issues it solves?
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Old 06-16-2005, 11:13 PM   #6
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The issues that I have heard are mating the stock pede sliders up and breakage. But it could also open other issues of possible tranny problems. Mine will be up and running by sunday and we will see what happens.
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Old 06-16-2005, 11:47 PM   #7
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that is a huge driveshaft for a truck the size of a tlt..... I like it.
and be sure to post up some pics of the final product, cause I'm still a little confused, on the tranny side a set screw goes all the way through, but on the axle side it is same as stock only a set screw that holds on for dear life, is that right? Could you drill through the pinion like if you were to install a maxx shaft and use one of those set screws to really hold the revo shaft on there?
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Old 06-16-2005, 11:52 PM   #8
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oh yeah one more thing, are there any clearence issues on the spur gear side of the tranny?
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Old 06-17-2005, 06:22 AM   #9
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The tranny side the tamiya drive cup is held on the same as the stock traxxas outdrive as they call it. A screw in the center of the drive cup then a set screw on the outside. The revo yolk is done the same as the axle side. The yolk is marked and drilled and the the traxxas pin goes all the way through.
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Old 06-17-2005, 06:53 AM   #10
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Funny, i had done this same tech article when I did this to my TLT about 5 months ago. It is the easiest way to convert over to those shafts.
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Old 06-17-2005, 07:17 AM   #11
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Didnt know an article had been done already jw. So much for my original idea How has the tranny held up?
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Old 06-17-2005, 07:23 AM   #12
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I have two Emaxx trannies and one Xfactor. All of them do great. The Xfactor is perfectly geared, but the Emaxx's are a little high. The Xhfactor tranny was actually out of a Nitro truck but I converted it to a single speed tranny. It works perfectly. I have used the same technic with Revo and maxx drive shafts. They have NEVER failed, YET. I have bound them up a few good times and usually the hex adapter inside the wheels strip first. But I haven't had any troubles with my drive train. It's a good mod.

Here's my thread on CT
http://www.clodtalk.com/viewtopic.php?t=9595&highlight=

Last edited by jwrape; 06-19-2005 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 07-23-2005, 01:06 PM   #13
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Awesome Referance aubie, for others that cant search in tower, the part number for the joint cuts is 47201...

VERY useful information, thanks lots.
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Old 05-15-2006, 06:37 PM   #14
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ive also found that if you use a screw that goes through the revo yoke and a nut on the other side that it will hold the revo yoke on the ball cup through the slot thats already in the cup...
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Old 05-15-2006, 08:39 PM   #15
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I'm running the Revo shafts on my 2.2 TLT. I can't speak for the Pede set up as I'm running a Stealth and it did limit the size of the spur I could use. Nothing that would prevent me from using them as they are BEEFY as hell, but it is something to think about.
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Old 07-26-2006, 03:33 PM   #16
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Sorry for bringing an old thread back, especially one that shows exactly how it works, but my LHS did not have Tamiya cups neccessary, but guess what, the Duratrax DTXC8100 work as well, that's what I'm using. The one downfall is that it has only 1 grub screw to hold it to the pede shaft, although I doubt that would be a problem.
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Old 07-26-2006, 08:49 PM   #17
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Well I guess my shaft isn't as big as yours now
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Old 07-26-2006, 09:52 PM   #18
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I've never broke a Pede driveshaft....Why would you need a Revo? Just asking....
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Old 07-26-2006, 11:13 PM   #19
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Don't you know that it is all about the size of your shaft. He who has the larger shaft wins.
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Old 09-27-2006, 05:11 PM   #20
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Thumbs down Still stealing from members

What are you trying to rip members off with now. I have got numerous IMs about you taking money and then never sending product. I still haven't see anything for the $465 I sent you.

Maybe someday you will find a pair and be able to live up to it. I have sent you emails, IMs, and voice mail (you don't ever answer)!
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