An introduction with a new build.

[flakkie]

Hey guys, I have been lurking on and off for a few years now. I have always wanted to get into a shaft-driven solid axle, but have not gotten the opportunity until now. Toying with RC cars has always been a large part of my life. As it got busier I packed a lot of stuff away and didnt mess with it for a good while. With the help of friends the addiction has come back and finally I got into something that I have always wanted.

Here are a few pictures.





Technically, it has TLT axles and transmission (for now.)
Future plans include:
-locking both front and rear differentials, as well as the center.
-changing out to Imex Swamp Dog tires (purely for aesthetic reasons.)
-four-link and shock tuning.
-ditching the Tamiya belt drive unit in favor of a Stampede transmission.
-upgrading anything that fails under normal abuse.

I enjoy reading the tech and searching for the information I need, so dont expect to see many posts from my end. However, there is a really nice rock quarry across from my house that my friend with a modified Wheely King and I bash at, so I will get some pictures to share. I appreciate the wealth of information and whenever possible I will give back.

Thanks,
Brett




(had to get a few pics of my "real" trail truck up! heh)

[flakkie]

So, after a very short outing with the stock TLT belt drivetrain, well, you know.

Out with that and in with the old faithful. I had to do a lot of trimming on the Pede transmission case and still need to clean it up. The pictures show the "rough cut," if you will.

I decided to stay with the Pacer chassis as I already have it and this is going to be a budget beater.

Onto the pictures.






Hope to have it finished mounted in the chassis tomorrow. It is late and I'm off to bed. Later!

[setecastronomy]

I can share my experience with you.
I realized too late that the only things smart people use of the tlt kit are the axles. The sooner you trow away everything else the better.
Now I have a quite good crawler My TLT but I spent so many money it would have been a better idea to wait and buy an Axial Ax10.
What I want to point out is that sooner or later you will have to replace the shocks, the dogbones with stampede/emaxx sliders and finally the chassis.
The Pede tranny is still widely used but it is no more the best one, now there are transmissions specifically designed for crawlers. Besides remember to mount it rotated, so the motor can lays on the skid plate. The CG is lowered but unfortunately it is difficult to find the space inside your chassis. If you are 'crafty' you can build your own, otherwise buy a sw3 or something else.

Bye
Filippo

[flakkie]

I think that building a truck into something that you want is far more rewarding then paying someone else to build one for you (Axial.) I was considering getting the R2 transmission but I am building this truck to do it all. It wont be a competitive crawler by any means, more or less a trail truck/basher. I really like your TLT.

Anyways, today I got a lot accomplished. I have the transmission finish mounted in the chassis and the rest of the stuff pretty well assembled.

I had to file off part of the chassis to make clearance for the spur gear. It is still kind of tight so when I pull the transmission back out to lock the differential I will finish making room for the spur.



You can see on the right the part that I had already filed down, and the left is still how the chassis comes. I used a bastard file and it removed the soft aluminum material quickly and without much force.



Here you can see that even though the spur clears, there isnt much room. A quick touch up with the file should do the trick.



I used the stock Traxxas countersunk tranmission to skidplate mounting screws to bolt the transmission case to the chassis plate.

[flakkie]

My largest mistake the first time out was my battery and electronic mounting locations. The 6 cell battery was mounted up high at the top of the chassis and as far back as possible. This made for some impressive wheelies, but climbing steep hills was pretty much a pointless task. It flipped over too easily. This time around I knew I wanted to mount the battery as low as possible and at the front of the truck. I see a lot of people mounting their batteries on the front axle, but I dont care for that. It doesn't look right and to me seems like it would fall off all the time. This is what I came up with.



I used some Associated battery cups that I had around and mounted them to the plastic TLT battery tray. I then mounted the assembly upside down into the front of the chassis. It is a very tight fit, but nothing rubs. I think that this setup will be a lot better then my last. I will then mount the electronics to the reverse side of the battery mount.



I also have a Traxxas Stampede slider shaft in there for mock up reasons. The 2 piece shaft was too short alone so I made one out of 3 pieces. I took the female end of one shaft and cut the "U" end off. I put it in the middle of the 2 male ends, which are at the transmission and axle. I am going to look into getting a Maxx setup, does anyone know if the Maxx shafts are longer and will mate up to my Stampede metal outdrive yokes?





Things to do yet:
-Figure out driveshaft situation. I'm also trying to think of how to adapt Traxxas metal yokes to the TLT axles. RCP sells an upgraded locked ring and pinion set and the pinion comes predrilled for Traxxas outdrives. Thinking of going this route, but at $28 for one I would like to come up with a different alternative.
-Lock differential inside transmission as well as axle differentials. Maybe just rear for now? I dont want to compromise too much turning radius..
-Finish up random little doodads.

If anyone could give me a shout about the driveshaft thing, I would be more then grateful. I have searched and keep getting contradicting information.

THANKS!

[setecastronomy]

Lots of people have warned me to shave the lip under the tlt axle because it easily binds in rocks. I'm going to follow their advice and I renew it to you.
You are speaking about a basher or trail rig but I suspect yoy will end buildind a competition crawler. It is what has happened to me and in the process I wasted lots of time and money. Think carefully about mounting the pede tranny vertically instead of horizontally as most people do because soon you could change your mind and you'll have to re-do the work and perhaps you cutted away necessary parts on the chassis.

Bye
Filippo

[flakkie]

Hey Filippo, thanks for the axle shaving tip. I wil be sure to add that to my "to do" list.

As far as mounting the Pede tranny the way I did, I do not think there would be any possible way to mount it horizontally in this chassis. There simply was not any room between the two chassis plates. In the future I would like to get a chassis comparable to the X-Trail so that I can mount the transmission in a lower spot.

Thanks for the tips man!

[flakkie]

Well, I found these shafts on Tower. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJH85&P=OW

They say that they are 2.5" long when compressed. Taking a quick measurement, I would need a shaft that is 4.25-4.5" long at rest (suspension at ride height.) It seems as these might be the ticket, and the price is right. Any idears?

[crazy_kanaka]

Originally Posted by flakkie

Well, I found these shafts on Tower. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJH85&P=OW

They say that they are 2.5" long when compressed. Taking a quick measurement, I would need a shaft that is 4.25-4.5" long at rest (suspension at ride height.) It seems as these might be the ticket, and the price is right. Any idears?

Your link doesn't work. But if you need that length, then this is the way to do it. CLICK ME This will make one bullet proof setup. The hardest thing is finding more tlt drive cups.

You can also acquire one pack of Traxxas Part number 1953, and 2 packs of Traxxas Part number 4628. Then you'll have some really solid drive shafts. To make them longer you just cut the end off of one of the male pieces and ca glue it into a male piece leaving some of it out to connect it to another male. Like This For more tips and tricks see BENDER's advice.

Good Luck

[flakkie]

Thanks for the information! I ended up going with the method you posted.

I finally got to test it out today. I am locked in the rear and open in the front, for now. I have to say, those stock TLT axleshafts are WEAK! I dont think I have ever owned an RC vehicle that breaks this easily. I was running a Magnetic Mayhem on 6 cells through a Duratrax speed control and popped off the long shaft on the rear while driving up a small gravel pile. I then put my Novak brushless in and managed to destroy both rear shafts in a matter of two battery packs. Granted, I am not running this on flat ground with the slipper set loose, but come on. I'm not entirely rowdy with my trucks.

I guess what I am getting at, I do not want to do the straight axle conversion in the rear, yet. I have been doing many searches on the board, trying to find up to date information on the RC4wd 303 stainless shafts. From what I read from 2 years ago the quality wasn't that great, but the company took action and was making things right with the customers experiencing problems. I am hoping that someone can vouch for this company and let me know they are worth the $25. Like I said, I am not doing anything extreme and am overall pretty respectful with the trigger finger. I just need something that is going to last more then 2 battery packs.

Any suggestions?

(By the way, I took those Red Rocks off before today's run. They are way too large to run on a toothpick.)

Thanks!

[setecastronomy]

As far as I know Tlt axle ahaft are not so easy to break. You can be unlucky with them or perhaps you are abusing them. Where did they break ? If you post picture perhaps somebody can give you some advices.

Bye
Filippo

[flakkie]

I broke all 3 of them right where they neck down before the cross-pin (end of shaft.) I don't really think I was abusing them. My buddy with his Wheely King and Axial axled rig (on 7 cells) was pounding it very hard and wasnt having any problems. I'm hoping that these aftermarket shafts are stronger then stock.

[jwcustomwurks]

Originally Posted by flakkie

I broke all 3 of them right where they neck down before the cross-pin (end of shaft.) I don't really think I was abusing them. My buddy with his Wheely King and Axial axled rig (on 7 cells) was pounding it very hard and wasnt having any problems. I'm hoping that these aftermarket shafts are stronger then stock.

Common issue. I switched to CVD's in my TLT rig an didn't look back

[flakkie]

I thought a small update was necessary. I ended up buying the RC4wd axleshafts and have had them in for many battery packs without issue. The truck has been running pretty well, besides a few bugs. It is pretty capable, especially since I locked the front the other day (rear was already locked.) I have been having problems with my driveshafts. They are Traxxas sliders and under a little stress it seems that the "ears" at the joint spread apart and pop off. Not only that, but they are stretched out around the joint and just dont seem to be beefy enough for the job. I plan on placing a Tower order for Maxx shafts soon. I just need to do some searching to find out if the TLT pinion flange on the axles are the same diameter as the Maxx output yoke. Whatever the case, I am sure it has been done before.