TLT Build Up- T-Bulu
 

This will be my buildup thread for my TLT crawler. I'm calling it T-Bulu because I'm modeling the entire chassis off of a Bulu and because they dont have them in production(I believe) anymore. So I chose to model it.Basic 4 link, non-cantilever suspension. Stock TLT tranny until I can get a deal on a 3 gear tranny.( Anyone have one?)

The chassis I built was made out of some wierd material. Its as bling as a mirror, strong than any metal I've worked with. It was a pain to cut, and even more of a pain to drill. Wish I knew what this was, its less than a mm thick but takes a hammer for me to try and shape it.

Plans are to go 2.2 Masker 2ks(yeah how original, but they work... so you cant complain) 4-40 rod links. Shafts are going to be traxxas half shafts if I can get a better tranny(One more plug,Any 3 gear stadium trannys out there?)

Buildup so far into this TLT is about 6 hours just of labor. Some of that was building some of it was actually cutting up the plates. I have alot of extra parts which really gets me off because I need to replace a bunch of E-Clips on my cars so now i have a bunch extra. I didnt bother building much, built the axles and locked both diffs along with fully tightening the center differential. After teh axles were complete I did the tranny and servo linkage. Its currently only front steering because I havent had the time or money to go 4ws. I plan to and have everything neatly organized so that it woudl be really easy.

This is a tough crowd for crawlers compared to what I'm used to, but bring on the criticisms.

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/9733/hpim20236gf.jpg
http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/3029/hpim20256vi.jpg
http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/8387/hpim20245sl.jpg

Torque

*Edited according to forum language rules. I'm used to primetime.*

Yer gonna get sued torquester!!!

J/K, but why did you bother making a custom chassis to outfit the stock tranny? Personally, i will be running stock chassis (chopped) till my rustler tranny comes in. I see no use for all that work to outfit a piece of crap.

just looks like some tin flashing to me. what were to trying to cut it with? sissors? it really doesnt look to durable ;-)

You've got to be joking me. Really.

Its stainless steel . I used a dremel and a hacksaw to cut it.

Go take one of your kitchen knifes and imagine that material, double the thickness. Flex teh knife, thats hwo much flex the chassis has. very little. here is an example, take a dull kitchen knife, and slam it against a steel pole. I would say that it probably wont break.

I specifically stated that the chassis was very stiff even though it may look thin. Really, have a little more common sense and courtesy buddy.

I am curious why you wanted to design a new chassis instead of modding the original to your needs. How is the tranny held tight together if you're only running the bottom screws?

Honestly, I just wanted something different that had that competition crawler look to it until I could get my hands on something else.

The tranny is tight enough because of the upper cross braces. I may add a little piece of metal on the top holes just to keep it firm.

So far it seems fine.

well i dont think it that durable. if it was stainless steel twice as thick as my butter knife, im pritty damb shure it wouldn't bend/ dent as i was drilling it. ;-)

yeah there is no way that is as thick as two butter knives, unless you cut butter with a piece of paper . you can see the metal piece that the motor bolts to on the stock tranny is much thicker than the chassis.
but if it works for you than thats cool , it looks real nice.
did you lock the center tranny by putting traxxas slipper pegs in it? thats how mine was locked untill i got a pede tranny.

Thanks.

I honestly dont even think I'm going to use the stock tranny. I got tires and links today. Shocks are coming maybe tuesday?

I need to find a stampede tranny or something of that sort. I cant use sliders with this stock tranny.

Mike- That my friend is from taping the holes. Otherwise my drill slides around and isnt precise. Everydrill whole on that is slightly under the rest of the chassis because I would hit it with a tap and hammer.

More pics later tonight, its really starting to look like a bulu.

i have two questions:
1. Is it your first crawler?
2. Is it your first atempt at fabrication?
-will

1-Yes
2-First chassis I've made, but not fabricating parts and mods.

Update
Lots of work done today. I'm at 8 hours logged onto this so far.

Went to my LHS, Bought out all revo links and maxx things that they had. I got 4 of those fancy aluminum Revo links, 2 steel links, and 2 steel Maxx turnbuckles.

Mounted them up and fabricated a front upper link mount, and just used the stock rear servo plate for my rear upper link mount. I used some random turnbuckle from the actual TLT kit, slipped it through what was the stock TLT lower link mount, put turnbuckles on it, slipped a little fuel tubing as a spacer and then threaded a nut. I attached all the links using only stock hardware, which was convenient to have.

Tires arrived today, however the rims(I figured and knew this) didnt work, so I tore the tires off, sprayed them with WD-40, then water, then Simple Green, then wiped it off. I know WD-40 is water displacement, but if you powerwash the tires(outside I did this) it will get it off. I'm going to try for some ofna rims as thats what has the minimal offset. If not, I'm going with some DTX rims.

Oh yeah, Pictures...

http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/5...e2front4eh.jpg
http://img323.imageshack.us/img323/8...ge2rear9aj.jpg

I've got about 80 degrees of articulation with no binding.

I'm on the hunt for a different tranny, as there will be no way to get the stock one to work.

Torque

Looks good torque, glad to hear your looking for a tranney, you will be much happier in the end, the stainless will probably work for now, you can always upgrade later to a thicker metal, I figure anytime someone starts a crawler project it's good for the hobby.

your 80 degrees will go down once you put the shocks on....

i don't think its thick enough. why bulu when its not really that close.

Ah thats true.

Rip is hanging around here. Cool.

I'm suprised that the stainless is holding. I didnt expect it to be as strong as it is. I'll probably keep it for as long as it lasts. If anyone wants to use it or know what specifically I'm using. Go to home depot and get a 12" mud pan. I bought one and just started cutting it up for the metal.

oh, the knife comparison. I was regarding like a steak knife or chopping knife. But I guess a butter knife would be the same.

Anyone have an idea where I could pick up a set of Ofna rims for this, The ones with zero offset?

Hey man, nice job on the chassis. I think that your getting bashed on a little to much about the thickness. I have some metal thats similiar to yours, and it's very tough.. oh, and thin. I also had trouble drilling with mine to. You have to get some holes started for it to drill like you said, other than that it slides around.

On the other metal I have, it's the thicker and lighter type. It's easier to drill and is about as strong as the thin. Oh well, what do I know, I'm still a youngin :) Lol.


Wheels:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCAN0&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCAN2&P=7

That is the same stainless that xtremerc used to build his laydown tranny tlt that is in the forsale section now.It will hold that thing has been put though hell many times.The only problem that you will have is glitching beacuse of the shiny stainless it took us a while to get david's right.

I try to be anywhere there's custom RC's being built... I'm a modder and muddder...LOL

ahhh don't sweat it, just build the damn thing and if it twists the chassis on your first rock, well get some thicker metal. I had people tell me lexan would not work and well it works just fine..... :-P

I'm betting you end up changing your build to a scale trail rig anyways.

Looks cool tork :)

Are you still planning to use that chassis when you get a new tranny?
And where are the elecs going to sit on that thing?

Yes I do, the 3 gear tranny will mean that i have to cut more out.

Electronics will be going on the axle, side of the chassis, below the chassis braces, and ontop of them.

Once I get a new tranny I'm going to start laying it out.

Tires are cleaned, foams are very trimmed. Ready for rims. Rip, I'm going with those DTX rims.

Syco, and suggestions on stopping this glitching?

I'm watching 1 bay auction, I have to get a final response from 2 people about transmissions.

G'nite,
Torque