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Old 08-18-2005, 06:28 PM   #21
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Go for it. For the other posts I used the stock TLT's cantilever link rods threaded down into the axle with the 1/2" posts sleeved around it. Reason is no one around here has 3mm rod. Now I am just busy finishing the tires and checking all the screws for tomorrow.
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Old 08-19-2005, 02:53 AM   #22
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so no new chassis this year? damn!
btw, I got looking at my modded TSC, i would not suggest anyone try my mods. my plates are bent to crap where I cut mine. it is fixable though and I know what to do to keep it from happeneing again.

let us know how that new link set up works.

I need to get mine back out and finish working on it. just need some fuel tubing to make some shock stops.

Chris
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Old 08-19-2005, 09:35 AM   #23
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The year isn't over

By the way, do you recognize your old body? I kept it thinking I would slap it on the TA02, but I thought this looked better
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Old 08-19-2005, 01:22 PM   #24
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thats body looks pretty good on there. much better than it did on the onroads or rallys. im liking it alot.

Chris
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Old 08-19-2005, 10:19 PM   #25
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Here's how I mounted mine





I used the stock link mount to bridge it & 3/16 brake line as a stand off w/ a 3x25 cap screw.

This pic is from my new & improved TLT. As for working it is awsome. your gonna love it. Now go kicl some azz
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Old 08-21-2005, 11:01 PM   #26
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Ok, so an update. The link setup just plain ROCKs from a stand point of climbing over things. The break over angle of the truck is insane, I can get over 8" near vertical ledges with little problem. The only thing is it seems a bit stiff and low on articulation. I think this is a shock issue though, since they are angled in to the center of the chassis, instead of parrellel with the chassis. I plan to fix this. Also, my wheelbase is too short, so I need to build some extended pede sliders. Badger and bender showed me the power of a laid down tranny and 12.5" wheel base on this 16-20" wall they easily climbed up and mine almost made it up once... after about 35 attempts. Though I think it was mostly a wheelbase issue more than anything.

Also, no breakage, so thats good. The toe in experiment didn't really yield any real results, so it goes back to 0 degrees now.
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Old 08-22-2005, 01:38 AM   #27
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Yeah, your right. It kicks azz. Took it out on a little test run.Here it is
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Old 08-22-2005, 05:22 AM   #28
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ah yes, the laydown trans is awsome, but I had bad results with 12.5 inches of WB. it was the breakover angle that killed me with a 12.5" WB though. What bag is it for those standoffs you used on the axles? I need to get me some.

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Old 08-22-2005, 10:40 AM   #29
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I don't know which bag it is. I just used the threaded male stand offs that you use to triangulate the links at the chassis on the stock kit. Then I used one of the super long screws and some spacers to triangulate at the chassis. Make sure your links are all equal length or it doesn't work. I think my uppers are lik 4-5mm longer over all because I unthreaded them some, but they are the same length packaged.
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Old 08-22-2005, 10:46 AM   #30
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only prob i could c with this set up is the stress on that single point where both of the links hook to the axle... i think u should brace it...
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Old 08-22-2005, 10:49 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh
only prob i could c with this set up is the stress on that single point where both of the links hook to the axle... i think u should brace it...
Did you see this post on page one? Look at the honking white nylon spacers. They are 1/2" in diameter, so it has a really nice, large foot print for bracing.

Whats different?
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Old 08-22-2005, 09:52 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plays_with_Toys
The only thing is it seems a bit stiff and low on articulation.
That's funny cuz I get full 90* if I twist it w/my hands. I don't think it goes 90* on the rocks though & that's just fine w/me. Too much no good
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