RCCrawler Forums

rckjeep · 09-23-2005, 10:29 AM

Badger uses that stuff. I had the cutting board stuff so I figured I'd try it. If I did go that route I'd gain another 1/8" of GC.

SlinkySam · 09-23-2005, 03:34 PM

That is truly a nice looking rig. Depending on the course designs, you really shouldn't have any problems getting hung up on that belly clearance (other than the corners). Especially at Castle Rock. You and Badger are going to be a great challenge for each other.

Oh, did you mention the center clearance? I may have missed it.

-Sam

rckjeep · 09-24-2005, 01:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlinkySam

That is truly a nice looking rig. Depending on the course designs, you really shouldn't have any problems getting hung up on that belly clearance (other than the corners). Especially at Castle Rock. You and Badger are going to be a great challenge for each other.

Oh, did you mention the center clearance? I may have missed it.

-Sam

It's 2.5" at rest. The suspension has some sag so it can be more with stiffer springs.

rckjeep · 10-09-2005, 11:17 PM

well I've been doing some playin with this new rig and it works really well. Though I keep breaking the diffs. There is the Y that holds the 3 spider gears on. I keep breaking the pins. I'll take it apart tomorrow and snap some pics. The one I broke last week I just took out and now the rear seems to be making the same noise. I also switched to a lathe motor and found the right gearing for me. An 84t spur & 16t pinion. I like a lot. A new body is in the works. Just need to find one that is narrow enough to work with the suspension flex. Anyone have any ideas on a narrow body? Post some ideas.

SlinkySam · 10-10-2005, 12:23 AM

Can you just get the same body and trim it only where the tires would rub? Would that leave no support for any of the body?

It looks real good to me. I can't wait to get out and crawl with you again. I have mine to the point where it can actually perform decently enough to crawl without rolling every 10 seconds.

Not sure why you are breaking your diffs unless the screws are coming loose and then they are snapping. If so, try using lock tite. I felt mine after driving it a while and those screws were backing out. I have my diffs locked by moving one of the two spiders between the other two. Seems to hold up fine so far and no pin snapping.

-Sam

k9popo · 10-10-2005, 05:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlinkySam

Can you just get the same body and trim it only where the tires would rub? Would that leave no support for any of the body?

It looks real good to me. I can't wait to get out and crawl with you again. I have mine to the point where it can actually perform decently enough to crawl without rolling every 10 seconds.

Not sure why you are breaking your diffs unless the screws are coming loose and then they are snapping. If so, try using lock tite. I felt mine after driving it a while and those screws were backing out. I have my diffs locked by moving one of the two spiders between the other two. Seems to hold up fine so far and no pin snapping.

-Sam

That is what happened to mine was that the screws came loose on the diff. I pulled the broken piece of the Y, put it back together and thread locked it. no problems so far and its been a month...

bugman72 · 10-10-2005, 08:46 AM

What lengths are you running on your links? I like your setup and am considering the purchase of an RBX.

badhoopty · 10-10-2005, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rckjeep

Just need to find one that is narrow enough to work with the suspension flex. Anyone have any ideas on a narrow body? Post some ideas.

i got a body on my rbx that you may dig...

i got my rbx all finished up 'cept for the body, which still needs some more work. its been pretty much the most time consuming part of the build.

i'll post pics of it hopefully sometime this evening.

its pretty cool. well, at least i think so.

rckjeep · 10-10-2005, 09:42 AM

well I've had the screws back out too. I've thread locked them in a while ago. These are the axles that were in my tuber so they have a fair amount of abuse. The front is locked by jamming paper towel pieces into the diff. It offers a bit of slip which is kinda cool to see one tire slip then grab. The rear is JB welded. I wish the ring gear bolted on and someone made a spool. RC Alloys hint hint. The weird thing is I never hear a snap! It just starts ticking. The WB is 13". The RBX is an awesome chassis, It's way more stable than the bulu I had before.

badger · 10-10-2005, 10:08 AM

Which diff are you breaking, the front or rear?

rckjeep · 10-10-2005, 10:44 AM

I broke the front last week, now it seems the rear has broke. I'll take it apart now.

rckjeep · 10-10-2005, 11:12 AM

well its apart sand the same thing that happened last week.

It's back together and I've moved the rear shocks outside the frame. Ii'm hoping it'll help with torque roll. It's really bad in certain situations. I've damn near had the front end completely vertical just from torque roll. It looks cool as he11.

OIT_TLT · 10-10-2005, 01:07 PM

I had the same thing happen to both of my diffs. I just put everything back together and haven't had a problem with it since. I know it's not really the "right" way to do it but it worked for me.

rckjeep · 10-10-2005, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OIT_TLT

I had the same thing happen to both of my diffs. I just put everything back together and haven't had a problem with it since. I know it's not really the "right" way to do it but it worked for me.

That exactly what I did.

hummerh2 · 10-10-2005, 06:40 PM

did you make those links? where could i get some

rckjeep · 10-11-2005, 06:42 PM

yes I did, I get 1/4" OD material with not quite 1/8" ID then drill them to 1/8" and tap it to 4mm. It's pretty easy.

rckjeep · 10-13-2005, 09:55 AM

I've had a few people ask for body off shots. Here ya go

I'll be making a new skid plate for it. Snice I bent the heck out of the stocker. Mine will follow my past skids with ramps and driveshaft cut outs.

badger · 10-13-2005, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rckjeep

I've had a few people ask for body off shots. Here ya go

I'll be making a new skid plate for it. Snice I bent the heck out of the stocker. Mine will follow my past skids with ramps and driveshaft cut outs.

That looks like a good second place rig to me.

1beatjeep · 10-13-2005, 09:55 PM

wrong third place to me

SlinkySam · 10-14-2005, 12:55 AM

Weird.... I didn't know there was a place higher than first because you forgot about me

Looks great rckjeep. I am going to have horrible time trying to keep up with you guys at the next play days. I am trying to lick the wounds after the last event. I barely made it through in one piece after Badger tought me a thing or two or three or four....

-Sam

10-10-2005, 11:12 AM	#32
rckjeep I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose Posts: 5,207	well its apart sand the same thing that happened last week. It's back together and I've moved the rear shocks outside the frame. Ii'm hoping it'll help with torque roll. It's really bad in certain situations. I've damn near had the front end completely vertical just from torque roll. It looks cool as he11. Last edited by rckjeep; 10-10-2005 at 11:56 AM.

10-13-2005, 09:55 AM	#37
rckjeep I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose Posts: 5,207	I've had a few people ask for body off shots. Here ya go I'll be making a new skid plate for it. Snice I bent the heck out of the stocker. Mine will follow my past skids with ramps and driveshaft cut outs. Last edited by rckjeep; 10-13-2005 at 10:09 AM.

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09-23-2005, 10:29 AM	#21
rckjeep I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose Posts: 5,207	Badger uses that stuff. I had the cutting board stuff so I figured I'd try it. If I did go that route I'd gain another 1/8" of GC.

09-23-2005, 03:34 PM	#22
SlinkySam RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Santa Clara Posts: 1,456	That is truly a nice looking rig. Depending on the course designs, you really shouldn't have any problems getting hung up on that belly clearance (other than the corners). Especially at Castle Rock. You and Badger are going to be a great challenge for each other. Oh, did you mention the center clearance? I may have missed it. -Sam

10-09-2005, 11:17 PM	#24
rckjeep I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose Posts: 5,207	well I've been doing some playin with this new rig and it works really well. Though I keep breaking the diffs. There is the Y that holds the 3 spider gears on. I keep breaking the pins. I'll take it apart tomorrow and snap some pics. The one I broke last week I just took out and now the rear seems to be making the same noise. I also switched to a lathe motor and found the right gearing for me. An 84t spur & 16t pinion. I like a lot. A new body is in the works. Just need to find one that is narrow enough to work with the suspension flex. Anyone have any ideas on a narrow body? Post some ideas.

10-10-2005, 12:23 AM	#25
SlinkySam RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Santa Clara Posts: 1,456	Can you just get the same body and trim it only where the tires would rub? Would that leave no support for any of the body? It looks real good to me. I can't wait to get out and crawl with you again. I have mine to the point where it can actually perform decently enough to crawl without rolling every 10 seconds. Not sure why you are breaking your diffs unless the screws are coming loose and then they are snapping. If so, try using lock tite. I felt mine after driving it a while and those screws were backing out. I have my diffs locked by moving one of the two spiders between the other two. Seems to hold up fine so far and no pin snapping. -Sam

10-10-2005, 08:46 AM	#27
bugman72 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Jefferson City Posts: 345	What lengths are you running on your links? I like your setup and am considering the purchase of an RBX.

10-10-2005, 09:42 AM	#29
rckjeep I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose Posts: 5,207	well I've had the screws back out too. I've thread locked them in a while ago. These are the axles that were in my tuber so they have a fair amount of abuse. The front is locked by jamming paper towel pieces into the diff. It offers a bit of slip which is kinda cool to see one tire slip then grab. The rear is JB welded. I wish the ring gear bolted on and someone made a spool. RC Alloys hint hint. The weird thing is I never hear a snap! It just starts ticking. The WB is 13". The RBX is an awesome chassis, It's way more stable than the bulu I had before.

10-10-2005, 10:08 AM	#30
badger Diggin' the new SCX10 II! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal Posts: 11,402	Which diff are you breaking, the front or rear?

10-10-2005, 10:44 AM	#31
rckjeep I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose Posts: 5,207	I broke the front last week, now it seems the rear has broke. I'll take it apart now.

10-10-2005, 01:07 PM	#33
OIT_TLT Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: On the yellow dummy dumper Posts: 447	I had the same thing happen to both of my diffs. I just put everything back together and haven't had a problem with it since. I know it's not really the "right" way to do it but it worked for me.

10-10-2005, 06:40 PM	#35
hummerh2 Newbie Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Littleton Posts: 11	did you make those links? where could i get some

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10-11-2005, 06:42 PM	#36
rckjeep I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose Posts: 5,207	yes I did, I get 1/4" OD material with not quite 1/8" ID then drill them to 1/8" and tap it to 4mm. It's pretty easy.

10-13-2005, 09:55 PM	#39
1beatjeep I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: san jose Posts: 2,061	wrong third place to me

10-14-2005, 12:55 AM	#40
SlinkySam RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Santa Clara Posts: 1,456	Weird.... I didn't know there was a place higher than first because you forgot about me Looks great rckjeep. I am going to have horrible time trying to keep up with you guys at the next play days. I am trying to lick the wounds after the last event. I barely made it through in one piece after Badger tought me a thing or two or three or four.... -Sam

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