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11-10-2005, 11:01 AM | #41 | |
Diggin' the new SCX10 II! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal
Posts: 11,402
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When you are crawling and have the tires up against a rock or something, instead of the the tires moving when you go to steer out of it your suspension will flex which will make it seem like you have very little steering. Also, with the extremely long servo horn you are decreasing the torqe the servo can provide to turn the tires. So with both of those downfalls, you are looking at one bad *** straight line crawling machine. | |
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11-10-2005, 11:25 AM | #42 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 560
| I was building this truck for fun. Not to be some super comp rig. As stated it is my first attempt. I venture to guess that you had all the answers when you built your first. And I am guessing that only your ideas are good ones. I guess your right maybe I should just smash it with a hammer. This thing just plain sucks. Just doing it for fun. |
11-10-2005, 11:28 AM | #43 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: woods cross utah
Posts: 523
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11-10-2005, 11:37 AM | #44 | ||
Diggin' the new SCX10 II! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal
Posts: 11,402
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I never said you have to do it my way, build it however you want man. Quote:
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11-10-2005, 12:23 PM | #45 |
Sinking with the ship Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: El Capitan...sole survivor and sinking fast
Posts: 8,864
| sweet
this truck is coming out really really awesome, i like the fact that you are keeping it very scale, i undertand badgers point with the steering servo i have it that way on my hulk werks pre runner ( i compete with it in PA) but on my current 4runner project im actually using the stock set up and the servo is hidden all the way up inside the body and uses a mess of linkage and itll prolly steer like crap but hey its gonna be scale, its done for fun. keep of the good work -Mike |
11-11-2005, 07:36 AM | #46 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 560
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After thinking about it badger is probably right. I did a little experiment last night with the truck. He is right, instead of the wheels turning the chassis just flops over. I don't know that there is any way to reduce the amount of flex. I really wanted to try something different. But it is really not worth building something that won't work. Because of the way the frame is designed I am not sure if I can change it. Mainly I am not sure if I can fit the servo on top of the axle without it hitting the frame. At this point I may just start over from scratch. That was painful, but sometimes you need to admit when your wrong. Otherwise you end up learning nothing. Anyone want to buy a chassis? |
11-11-2005, 08:34 AM | #47 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: in a basement in Kalispell, MT
Posts: 857
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Maybe a bellcrank on the drivers side of the frame. Run the draglinks from your servo and steering knuckle to this. This could give you a longer draglink. Then a track bar from the frame to the axle?
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11-11-2005, 09:03 AM | #48 | |
Diggin' the new SCX10 II! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal
Posts: 11,402
| Quote:
Does the servo hit when your articulating the suspension, or does it just hit when you compress the front end straight down? | |
11-11-2005, 09:23 AM | #49 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: and OR. if . . . . Gone Fishin :p :b :p
Posts: 501
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You could remove the plate that the Servo is sitting on............ that would give you some room. Or maybe you could mount the Servo closer to the center of the chassis and run "link steering" with a cantilever mounted on the axle "link plate"? It really is good looking work you've done! | |
11-11-2005, 09:46 AM | #50 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 560
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My question is, do my top links need to be the same length front and rear? I will have to make a servo mount/link mount for the front. For clearance reasons I dont want to mount the links on top of the servo. I want to mount them on the back side of the servo. This would mean shorter top links. | |
11-11-2005, 09:53 AM | #51 |
Diggin' the new SCX10 II! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal
Posts: 11,402
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Your front and rear links do not have to be the same length. And the upper's do not have to be the same length as the lowers. Trailer guy posted the "proper" way to design a 4 link somewhere. I will see if I can find it. Although I have never gone by the exact "proper" way and my rigs perform great. Don't give up on that chassis, you done to nice of a job. But.... if you do get rid of it let me know and I will buy it. I am sure I can find a good use for it sitting on top of some bruiser axles. |
11-11-2005, 10:04 AM | #52 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: East Quogue
Posts: 242
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Badger, have you seen the internal-spring shocks on rc4wd? you might be able to get rid of that other stuff and put these in wile your changing the chassis. There around $50. I dont know how well they work but they look scale. |
11-11-2005, 10:05 AM | #53 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: East Quogue
Posts: 242
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Or are those what you have on there already????
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11-11-2005, 10:16 AM | #54 | |
Diggin' the new SCX10 II! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal
Posts: 11,402
| Quote:
I don't know that I would spend $50 bucks on those. I heard that all you need to do to make internal spring shocks was to put some mini-t springs in maxx sized shocks. | |
11-11-2005, 11:35 AM | #55 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: East Quogue
Posts: 242
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o woops i meant Brando
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11-11-2005, 02:19 PM | #56 |
Sinking with the ship Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: El Capitan...sole survivor and sinking fast
Posts: 8,864
| shocks
hey guys just a heads up, i have those shocks, they are ok if they are the out side spring ones, i have them my bennet clod and they work well, i also have them on my blue bruiser but im using jugg springs and the truck is more show then go, i did however have a set of internal spring ones on my mountaineer when it was 4 linked and they sucked, it was way to stiff, i think they did make a heavier and/or softer version...im not sure was i had but i was so happy with them. i think badgers losi mini t spring would prolly work best. heres a much older pic, maybe if you got them and you swapped a softer spring into them? -Mike |
11-11-2005, 02:29 PM | #57 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1
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What about moving the servo back in the chassis and turning it 90 degrees, then use a bellcrank attached to the axle. I'm at work so I can't draw you a picture (ok, the work thing is just an excuse, the real issue is I can't draw). The 4 links will stop the servo from moving the chassis, and having the bellcrank attached to the axle should isolate it further. You could keep the bellcrank small, so it wouldn't be obtrusive. DON"T GIVE UP ON THIS THING, IT IS WAY TOO COOL! It is exactly what I would build if I had any skill or talent.
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11-11-2005, 02:38 PM | #58 |
Im Brandon Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA
Posts: 8,156
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No need to draw it, its been done, here is a great example of it. Blackfoot ver. 2K5 Check it out brando, this may solve your problem? Worth a try!! |
11-11-2005, 04:54 PM | #59 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 560
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Anyhow it is kind of late for that. I have cut off the parts I didn't need on my chassis. The servo mount and spring perches are all gone. I have already made a mount for my servo and top links for the front axle. Might have to try that bellcrank system on my next rig. The shocks on the truck are GPM maxx shocks. I am pretty sure they are the same as the ones RC4WD is selling with internal springs. A mini-t spring fits perfect inside. I tried a yellow (not sure of the rate). I wanted to run the coils for the scale look. But if I am not happy with them the internal springs is my backup plan. | |
11-11-2005, 04:59 PM | #60 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 373
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imm loven it!
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