Mid-size crawler.
 

I'm calling this mid-sized since it's smaller than 2.2, but much bigger than the 1.9 TLT builds. I tried out the Duratrax Cliff Climber but just don't want to get involved with it enough to make it perform. I did like the size though, so I'm going back to the old reliable shafty.

Some specs;
-11" wheelbase
-4" tires(proline gladiators on berg beadlocks)
-TLT axles with DF03(high-steer) knuckles, fatrock C's
-Modified Widow LP chassis (Offroader5's design, thanks"thumbsup") made from cutting board
-Aluminum axle truss plates
-Stampede tranny 45T lathe
-Cliff Climber "Bronco" body

So far I'd got this much done.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/IMG_1197.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/IMG_1198.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/IMG_1199.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/IMG_1200.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/IMG_1201.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/IMG_1202.jpg

Thats gonna look cool! I like it.

And Kami's post reminds me, I meant to ask about the DF-03 knuckles.

Stock Tamiya, or are those cheap alu aftermarket upgrade optional pieces?

see i think thats way cooler than any 1.9 crawler... i think i might build one with some extra parts out in my garage.

An 11'r!

The knuckles are 3racing or gpm, some cheapo aluminum that's weaker than tamiya plastic, haha. I already twisted one with the steering links mounted wrong. I had the tierod and drag link both mounted on top, therefore putting much more twisting force on the arm. I now run one above and one below. Not really double shear but it's better.

I really like this size, and I don't compete so there is no worries there. No need to narrow the axles to meet 1.9 standards either. I also love the M3 gladiators. If they made a 5.5" gladiator I'd concider stretching it out to full 2.2 specs. I moved some shock mounts and have it sitting a little lower now. I need to get the electroncs in so I can sort out oil and springs.

Which of the ESC that I have would you guys suggest I use, XL5 or Moped? I'd rather not put any money into this project and those are the only two I am not using.

What's the thickness of the cutting board you used? It looks pretty thick in the pictures. I've seen some of Offroader5's chassis designs they are pretty nice. I had a "comp style" crawler a while back (I don't compete either) and I tore it apart to use the parts for a different build. Seeing this build kinda makes me want to build another one. :idea:

I think it's 3/8" but might be a little thicker. With cutting boards being made of weaker plastic, compared to delrin, I figure some extra meat couldn't hurt. I like the cutting board because i can use simple tools to cut/form it. I used a wood blade in my bandsaw, router bits in my drill press, and a mill vice. And to top it off I got this specific board from goodwill for $0.69.

Can't beat that. A .69cent chassis and it looks amazing!

This is like how the original "hot rodders" of rc did things!
Great looking truck. Very clean work.

very original with the cutting board. i like the homebrew rigs. hell anyone can BUY a chassis and drive but building it from scratch makes you appreciate it more. lookin good man someday u might be winning comps with it.

Thanks guys, I like built not bought. However if I competed and had the cash, you better believe I'd have the best parts money could buy and it would probably look like every other comp rig. That's just due to my lack of skills. One thing that comes from scratch building is redoing things many times. Right now I'm working on fitting 3racing portal knuckles meant for the CR01. Even though the CR01 and TLT are both tamiya, it's proving difficult. On top of that the chassis is way too high now, was high before these knuckles. Before anyone asks, I am trying the 3racing knuckles at $60 compared to the rc4wd TLT-specific knuckles at around $120 because I'm cheap. Ya ever just get the urge to try something? That urge usually cost me money and results in headaches. I'll get pics once I get it back together.

I don't recall who made them, but I just saw a pair of aluminum knuckles for the TLT over at TCS for like $14 per set!

You might go check them out.
Go to the TLT section.

Portal knuckles are more than just aluminum, they are geared and you gain axle clearance like you would with a larger tire. For example, with these, I gained over 1/2". Thats like running a 4" tire and having the ground clearance of a 5" tire. I got them mounted but am still having clearance issues with the turning on the front axle. Will probably have to modify the stubs for tighter steering. No big deal, I'd done the stock stubs just a few months ago.
http://www.3racing.hk/picture.php?im...max_height=210

Whoops! My bad. I didn't notice you were talking about portals...that's a different story.

Those are cool who has them?

I got mine from thetoyz.com. I think rcmart is cheaper, but who wants to wait on the slow boat for parts.

Sweet I will have to check them out

Be prepared to do some work on them if you are concidering them for a TLT. So far I have drilled out the kingpin holes in my axle C's to 7mm, then bent them and squeezed the knuckles in. Then I had to cut some off the knuckle body before it would turn in the C. And now I have limited steering due to the stub shafts in the knuckles, less than stock steering angle. So unless you just like to tinker with things it's probably best to get the RC4WD ones that are actually designed to fit a TLT or forget it all together.

Sounds like your re-working the whole thing! lol I think I will get the RCP ones.

I haven't messed with this in a couple weeks but forgot to post a few pics of the knuckles in. Thay're in and work fine but the steering is limited like I mentioned before. So I need to tear the front axle back apart and grind down the cups on the knuckles to get my steering angle back, just like you have to do on stock stubs. I was surprised that it wasn't much slower with the 1.6 gearing in the knuckles. I'm still going to swap in a 35T motor though.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t/IMG_1218.jpg
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