First venture in the world of TLTs...
 

I'm starting a rock racer build on a DMG tuber with TLT axles I bought from the forum. Until now my crawler and scaler were Axial based. This is my first time out with tlt axles and I thought I'd ask a few questions and hear some input. Still anxiously waiting for parts to arrive. Have some alu knuckles, hubs and straight axle adapters on the way. Going to be running a HH 30t handwound, sidewinder and a lipo.

First of all, would like to hear propositions for a pinion size (rc4wd r2) and the lipo capacity? Should I run an open diff front or rear? Do the stock shafts and stubs last? And what are the bag numbers for the axle parts? And the hexes, I suppose it takes the normal 12mm ones?

Thanks guys "thumbsup"

Here is the Tamiya page on the TLT-1:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=47201

On there, you can find everything from exploded views to a parts listing.

Here is the TLT parts listing on Tower:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=TAMC0201&P=PU

I cant recall ever breaking a stock shaft...and I even drilled out the outer cups for more turning radius.

Yes, 12mm hexes.

I hope this helps...

RCP Crawlers has everything to build bulletproof TLT axles.
http://www.rcpcrawlers.com/home.php?cat=17

RC4WD has some too.


Some stuff:
C's and Knuckles are a must have.
You can build your own link mounts that are stronger then the stock bolt on's.
Shim the dif ring gears, whether stock or copper locker.
IF using stock dif pinions, to get driveshafts to fit better on the pinions, I remove the E-clip and let the driveshaft end ride against the plastic case.

I don't think the stock shafts will last long behind a 30T Handwound and a LiPo. Unless it's a 2S LiPo.
I highly recommend the RCP CVD's, they are a great upgrade. I've never broken one, they have always outlasted the stock diff gears.

Jumping + TLT axles = broken ring and pinions. Just be prepared for it with spares or upgrade to the RCP stuff.

I'd recommend starting with a 14T pinion on the R2.

For a 3S LiPo I'd go 2200mAh, 20C minimum. That's what I run and it works great.
For 2S LiPo I'd go 15C minimum.

Holmes Hobbies has some good ones.

I tried all of those fancy expensive aftermarket spools/R&Ps and broke them all. I keep coming back to the stock ring and pinion...

Yeah, some people have had good luck, some say they are not much of an improvement. I still use stock stuff myself and keep spares. A broken r/p cost me a good finish at the last scale comp though.

You guys shim your pinions right? Ever need shims on the ring gear/diff?

Yeah, I shim the pinion with those traxxas washers...

I have used shims on both the diff and the pinion. Not always, it just depends on what it takes to make it feel right.

The TLT diffs on Guido lasted 2 years on a 12lb rig with no slipper clutch (R2 tranny), and a 10T HH Puller runing on 7.2V/14.4V. So if you set them up well they will survive well.

Thanks for the replys guys "thumbsup" I have been rebuilding the axles with some alloy parts I found on fleabay, waiting on the motor and esc to arrive. I would have loved to buy the RCP stuff but their shipping costs are a bit much to Europe.

How are you guys locking the stock diff? Extra gears and JB? Do you have any opinion on open diffs on a rock racer, F/R?

Yep, I jam an additional spider gear inside and then fill it with JB Weld....never had an issue.

However, you dont want to remove one of the existing spider gears. I tried this a while back without JBWeld and ended up breaking the crosspin...

When I JB weld the diffs I don't use the extra gear, I just fill the area between the gear with JB weld. I actually use the putty or "Weld Stick" and not the liquid JB weld.
Make sure you grease up the splined end of the axle shafts and insert them in the diff while the JB weld dries. This ensures everything is lined up and the grease keeps the JB weld from sticking to the shafts and keeping them in there forever.

Personally I like both diffs locked for rock racing because it allows you to breeze through the techinal rock sections. I like to run rear steer to compensate for the loss in turning radius.
If you don't expect to see much technical rock and most of what you are going to do is high speed jumps, turns, and rocks that you can bounce across then an open diff would be better and save some breakage. It all depends on what you plan to do with it.

rcp all the way
 

Get with Brian & Noel at www.rcpcrawlers.com
those guys are the bomb. Fast shipping. Great customer service.

Good luck with your new venture. Set them up right, they will last. Don't worry when you break the shafts, stubs, kingpin tabs, That's all part of the fun, right."thumbsup"

I have been in contact with RCP, and the answers were fast and polite. Unfortunately, all their shipping options are express and that means about $35 just for cvd's. That is their choice and I respect that. It only means I have to come up with a big order to cover to shipping costs...

I ordered a bunch of pinions from the LHS, still waiting on the HH order to arrive. I set up some shocks on droop, I didn't have any short enough shocks. I will see how it runs and then get some.

I will be running locked diffs as that is how my axles came. Will see a LHS with a big tamiya stock for spare diffs and axle housings. This thing will be mostly for bashing off road and on the rocks. Cant wait to start to to put this thing together!

Shipping
 

[QUOTE=trainer;2014916]I have been in contact with RCP, and the answers were fast and polite. Unfortunately, all their shipping options are express and that means about $35 just for cvd's.

NO, they do have regular shipping, usps-$7.95-up, ups, a little more than usps, and yes they do offer express shipping.

You have multiple choices when it comes to checking out. Just ordered tlt axle shafts about three weeks ago, shipping was $6.95"thumbsup"

[QUOTE=scrounge;2015687]Not for overseas. To Europe the only choices are express. I verified this with Brian.