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Old 10-28-2009, 05:00 PM   #1
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Default newb's second try-Tuber TLT

Glad I found this site!!
My first crawler didn't work out so good. Here we go again the only thing that's carring over are the TLT axles. And some rccrawler knowledge I've picked up reading here.
I just finished brazin up the chassis and this is what it looks like. I made the final lower links of steel and the uppers from aluminum. Steel slids better on rock. Its runnin a nitro stampede trans cause i want the brake to use as a drag brake. 55T lathe. 4x4x4
Any input welcome.


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Old 10-28-2009, 06:37 PM   #2
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AWESOME!

Cool to see someone else still buildin TLT's

Never heard of using a nitro trans in place of a drag brake, but who knows, might work, you'll have to keep us updated for sure

I'm hella diggin the front end of the tuber...
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Old 10-28-2009, 08:22 PM   #3
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Default newb's second try-Tuber TLT

Looks real good !-nice & straight too. My first tuber is a wall hanging now (barely run because I didn't' know about this site either-it didn't work so well) Learned ALOT reading/searching RCCrawler- I also love TLT's-Keep up the good work-
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Old 10-29-2009, 01:02 AM   #4
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Thanks guys. I got a little more of the layout in place. Definetly feelin better about this build.
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Old 10-29-2009, 10:29 AM   #5
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Nice job on the chassis!!
Like the rear shock mounts tucked in behind the side tube.

Going with sprung shocks or droop setup?

Nitro Pede tranny - so besides an ESC, you are running a servo that will apply the brake with your throttle in neutral??
Or a third channel applying the brake? Could prob do that with a radio that can mix ch1 and 2.
Will it run in reverse?

For strength eventually you'll want to go with alum knuckles and C's on the front axle.
After that, maybe MIPs on the front also.

Nice start!!

Last edited by sweli; 10-29-2009 at 10:34 AM.
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Old 10-29-2009, 01:16 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweli View Post
Nice job on the chassis!!
Going with sprung shocks or droop setup?
Nitro Pede tranny - so besides an ESC, you are running a servo that will apply the brake with your throttle in neutral??
Or a third channel applying the brake? Could prob do that with a radio that can mix ch1 and 2.
Will it run in reverse?
Nice start!!
It's a single speed trans so it will work in reverse. What's great about a manual drag brake is you set the pressure with a servo on the brake and you can throttle thru what the brake willl hold.....Makes for very precise drag, in my opinion it better than any esc drag brake cause it leaves no room for slip or error. The shocks are internally sprung,,,,not sure if it's stayin this way,,, still workin out some kinks. I discovered rc18T and mini t springs fit inside my shock bodies,, but i don't know if they have enough pressure. They hold it up now but I don't have everything in the chassis.
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Old 10-29-2009, 04:52 PM   #7
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So you are going to have a servo on the same ch as your ESC, powered with a Y harness?
Will it let off as the ESC begins to power or are you setting it to grab enough all the time to hold the wieght of the rig, then you power past the hold point to move??

I understand what you're wanting. I like my Novak Rooster Crawler ESC better then any of my others with Drag Brake.
The Novak has a "Hold Brake". The thing can flip you over on a downhill if you are not careful. Prob harder on the drivetrane, but it holds really well.
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Old 10-29-2009, 08:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweli View Post
So you are going to have a servo on the same ch as your ESC, powered with a Y harness?
Will it let off as the ESC begins to power or are you setting it to grab enough all the time to hold the wieght of the rig, then you power past the hold point to move??
I understand what you're wanting. I like my Novak Rooster Crawler ESC better then any of my others with Drag Brake.
The Novak has a "Hold Brake". The thing can flip you over on a downhill if you are not careful. Prob harder on the drivetrane, but it holds really well.
My plan is to use an airplane controller. I have a 4 channel Futaba Skysport lyin around so I think I'm gonna use left stick for drag brake and rear steer and the right for front steer and throttle. So the drag can have any kind of pressure I need by adjusting the left stick on the transmitter. I threw some tires on it tonight,, didn't get much time to tinker,,,but it seems to flex nice.

Last edited by Twisted Links; 10-29-2009 at 11:36 PM.
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:14 PM   #9
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Neat idea.
Curious how it works when you get it going.
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:56 PM   #10
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Lookin good

Like sweli said, you'll have to keep us posted on that tranny/radio setup!
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Old 10-31-2009, 05:41 PM   #11
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With the paint barely dry and the rig no where near complete I slapped it together for a test run to determine if a few ideas we gonna be good. First thing I noticed was the shocks seemed too soft,,I guess it's acting like a droop setup. We'll see what I can do about that. Next thing I noticed was how much better it crawled!! Way better than my first try. The gearing is at 5.73 which feels pretty nice. I'm runnin a 55T motor. Top speed around 3 MPH,,lol. I took my waterproof XL-5 from my slash awhile ago so I'm using that. I want the whole truck waterproof when it's done.
As for the manual drag brake/servo nitro trans setup...perfect! It's better than I thought it would be. It holds really strong when you lay into the little HS-55 servo. If you put like half pressure, U can sit near vertical and just lightly push the lathe motor past the brakes holding point. U can literally move a centimeter at a time. Another good thing i noticed is when I make a throttle mistake while the drag is engaged I don't pay for it as much. Anyone have any shock suggestions!
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:03 AM   #12
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Shock suggestions- ie what to do to the ones you have, or new ones?

Are you going for sprung or droop?
How does she sit in droop?

For internal droop, I use local hardware springs under the pistons.
I have not done internal sprung suspensions.

You can do both to hold the suspension in a middle position while on a flat. But you will loose some shock travel as the compressed spring takes up room internally.

A lot of people run Integy MSR10 shocks. $$. They come with internal springs. Different rates I belive.
PIMPNROCKS has some for sale. Silver and blue. $45 and $40.
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Old 11-01-2009, 07:08 PM   #13
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I'm kinda tryin to use the ones I have, keep costs down I've been using parts I have lyin around. I have springs in the shock tube on top of the piston,, is that right? They don't seem to be stiff enough but I can try other rates. Is there any benefit to one or the other?(droop or not) I'm finishing up the lower links tonight and hope to have it back together and trying some external progressive rate springs I have.
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Old 11-02-2009, 12:35 PM   #14
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I have springs in the shock tube on top of the piston,, is that right?

it depends on what type of droop your going for but usualy the springs go on the shaft under the piston other wise your shock will unload when you start to climb depending on what weight oil you are useing i use a heavier spring in my left rear shock just to counter act torque twist when climbing but i use a lighter spring in the other 3 shocks as far as a benifit to droop vrs. sprung i would say imo droop helps keep cg lower but is a bit harder to tune than sprung i would try both ways but just keep in mind if you built your links with the shocks in a droop setup then if you put springs on them the springs will shorten your wheelbase a bit

Last edited by frsttimer; 11-02-2009 at 12:40 PM.
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Old 11-03-2009, 12:09 AM   #15
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I have springs in the shock tube on top of the piston,, is that right?
it depends on what type of droop your going for but usualy the springs go on the shaft under the piston other wise your shock will unload when you start to climb depending on what weight oil you are useing i use a heavier spring in my left rear shock just to counter act torque twist when climbing but i use a lighter spring in the other 3 shocks as far as a benifit to droop vrs. sprung i would say imo droop helps keep cg lower but is a bit harder to tune than sprung i would try both ways but just keep in mind if you built your links with the shocks in a droop setup then if you put springs on them the springs will shorten your wheelbase a bit
I set the links by allowing the diff to fall as far as the shocks shaft would allow, which is also how I determined where to mount the shocks. I tried to let the diff fall as far as the driveshaft angle would allow without putting to much stress on the shaft joint. With that said it sounds like I might be able to go either way? If I undersstood u correctly. I had some outer progressive rate springs and threw those on after finishing up the steel lower links. I also did as u said and sprung the left rear spring alittle more and I see what you mean about it not torque'in over,,,,thanks. I found a set MIR 2.2 beadlocks and Panther Cougar Rock crawler tires for 46.00 shipped on the net....Tires are super soft, very nice.. I had my friend cut me some hub extenders on the CNC machine at work to go with these wheels too(adding 40mm width. So as it stands this build is going much better. With these shocks and springs what weight oil should I start out with?

12.5" WB
11" wide
3.25" center clearance
Nitro pede trans w/manual drag brake
Traxxas slider driveshafts,,,,(punishers coming soon)
Traxxas waterproof xl-5
55T lathe
5.73 gear ratio
HS645MG steering servos
Ofna buggy rears shocks rc10gt fronts
Traxxas progressive rate springs
3/16 brazed brake line chassis
2 cell lipo
Futaba Skysport radio (truck uses 4 channels)
Independent front and rear steering

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Old 11-09-2009, 12:03 AM   #16
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Nice job on your chassis, your rig looks great.

For shock oil a lot of guys are running 70wt with losi shocks and white springs. That keeps things from movin to fast on a 6.5lb rig. But I have seen some running 35-50wt, so i guess it depends on how fast you want your suspension to react and how big the holes are in your shock pistons.
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Old 11-11-2009, 04:14 PM   #17
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Nice job on your chassis, your rig looks great.
For shock oil a lot of guys are running 70wt with losi shocks and white springs. That keeps things from movin to fast on a 6.5lb rig. But I have seen some running 35-50wt, so i guess it depends on how fast you want your suspension to react and how big the holes are in your shock pistons.
Hey thanks for the info and the props. so I don't want the shocks to react quickly? The rear steer seems to like the stiffer outside progressive springs(there soft until fully compressed) I think I'll try a heavier oil now. It has 30wt at the moment. I guess nothing is written in stone and it can be a bit of trial and error.
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Old 11-11-2009, 06:45 PM   #18
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Yeah, it is definitely a trial and error on oil weights. Good thing a bottle of oil goes a long ways and is cheap. Its not that you dont want the shocks to react quickly, just for comp purposes I run a thicker oil cause it helps make my suspension a little more predictable for creeping along sidehills and it slows down my torque twist a little bit. Maybe go up to a 50wt and see how you like it. Good luck with testing.

Everett
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Old 11-11-2009, 07:36 PM   #19
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Nice rig man,,,i like the trans set up ,,good idea,,way to think outside the box...now just to be clear,,your brakes hold both trans outputs right?
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Old 11-12-2009, 02:52 PM   #20
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Nice rig man,,,i like the trans set up ,,good idea,,way to think outside the box...now just to be clear,,your brakes hold both trans outputs right?
Thanks,,, I think I just like to be different. I started an Ofna Buggy to crawler conversion thread in the maxx crawler section too,,,never saw one and had the clapped out buggy lyin around so i said why not and am very surprised how it's comin along. Like minded you might appreciate it.
As for the trans brake, as I like to call it, yes it stops both diffs from turning. I've been doin alot of testing with it and I have to say it works nice.
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