RCCrawler Forums

customxprone1 · 02-19-2006, 03:22 PM

mk cool guys that helped a lil, thank ya much. Nice build btw!

crash · 02-20-2006, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by customxprone1

mk cool guys that helped a lil, thank ya much. Nice build btw!

No problem. If you have any more spacific questions you are more than happy to PM me..

FFRCJosh · 02-20-2006, 09:32 AM

That really is coming along, from the pages 1&2. Keep it up!

Josh

crash · 02-20-2006, 08:14 PM

Here is one of my first good OOOOPS

Was out playing at work and all of a sudden lost power to a rear tire

I need chromo's

crash · 02-20-2006, 08:18 PM

So I went ahead and drilled some new holes for the shocks and took some of the angle out of them and took the 2 2.75lb spring I had and put them kitty corner to help with the torque twist. Needless to say it helped but there is still a little there. I also took some of the verticle seperation out of the rears on the chassis side. Its slowly getting better.. I am ordering some more springs and some 40w shock oil so I will be experimenting a little more on that once I get the goods.

crash · 02-20-2006, 08:29 PM

One thing that was bugging me since I relocated the shocks the nose would lift (so would the rear when dropping off steep stuff) now since I had less shaft showing on the shocks(before when the shocks were canted steeper the shocks where pretty much fully extended at sitting hieght). So I figured it was time to do some limiting straps(I never ever expected I would take this damn thing this far

). So I went to home depot and got some 1/16 cable and got some of those crimp things (sorry I forget what they called) but I was having them break when I tried to crimp them down. So I took some crimp ends for wiring (16-18 guage)and modified them to crimp loops in the cable. Now from my experiance on the 1:1 stuff unless you are wanting to limit your shock extension you want to run the limiting stap right in the middle so you won't interupt your flex but will keep both shocks at the same time from extending.

I took the stock upper cross bars and tossed them. took some 1/4" material that I used for my links and center drilled them. I took one of the brass bushings that used to be on the stock cantalever and cut them to make a smaller bushing so the strap will stay centered on the chassis(loop isn't big enough to pop out of the grove). And on the axle side I looped the strap again and used the spacer in the center link backet . Worked great.

As you can see (sorry bad angle) when flexed the strap is not tight.

crash · 02-20-2006, 08:32 PM

I was amazed just HOW well it performs on climbs/drop offs.

Its very stable now and I can tell exactly what its going to do. Even on climbs when the strap is tight it doesn't inhibit the fronts ability to flex.

crash · 02-20-2006, 08:35 PM

I guess I was having a lil too much fun..

It cracked the yoke where one of the set screws are. So I went and drilled 2 new holes and tapped them for the 3mm set screws. I also went and notched a flat spot on the pinion to help the driveshaft stay put

I also ordered some traxxas steel yokes.

crash · 02-20-2006, 08:49 PM

Here are a couple pics of how the stampede tranny sits in the stock TLT chassis

As you can tell the mounting screws are basically centered on the chassis

You will also have to grind a little off the chassis for the spur gear.

And to make it fit between the chassis plates you will have to grind the tranny down on the oppisite side of the mounting screws.. Pretty simple really....

Yotakid89 · 02-20-2006, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crashfab

Find me one,lol... I looked but no luck..

Hit up EBAY. I dfound one that had crappy paint but good body, small hole in the roof for $20...theyre on there!

crash · 02-20-2006, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yotakid89

Hit up EBAY. I dfound one that had crappy paint but good body, small hole in the roof for $20...theyre on there!

Last one I treid to get went up to $60. But the down side I barely have enough time to even get this simple rig up and going.. But then again--collect parts for a future rig--hmmmmmmmm

WRXronald · 02-21-2006, 05:51 AM

Looks good on the rocks like that

body looks better with that little 'window' detailing you added.. if you don't care much how 'clean' it looks, then do like some others (myself included) and take a black sharpie and color in the windows areas... works 'ok' at least.

also--- looks like you could go fairly near to vertical with the shocks if you wanted just by drilling extra holes in the side plates. you'd probably have to give up a little shock travel i'm guessing.

i didn't quite follow about having 'max' shock extension at full ride height? i have my PTI setup for 1/2 shock travel at full ride height, thus allowing one side to extend equally to other side's compression when articulating--- not sure if that's the right setup, but it just seemed sensible to do it that way to me.

if i can conjure up the time this weekend, i'm going to try and make some 'ghetto' upper shock mounting plates, plop them on top of the chassis rails (PTI stock frame) and put the shocks as near to vertical travel as possible. i'm really curious to see how much a vertical shock setup will eliminate twist. i'm just hoping to eliminate 'some' of the twist and allow the chasiss/body of the rig to return to 'center' more effectively once all 4's settle to even ground. (hate it when it settles/leans in one direction or another after finding flat ground

).

i like that cable and crimp idea... mines much more ghetto looking with zip ties

, but essentially is the same idea/functionality-- it helped the setup ALOT!

keep with it... amazed to see it going over that set of rocks, very impressive! did you place it for photos or crawl it right up and over?

WRXronald · 02-21-2006, 08:02 AM

just realized as i'm searching towerhobbies for some sort of good upper shock mount plate to use--- when the tires articulate to full upward travel, they are going to run into the shock bodies at full travel aren't they... DAMN IT RATS!!!

that's gonna kill that idea. i'll have to just decrease the angle of mount like crashfab did, rather than go for complete vertical 90 degree mounting. torque twist is becoming quite the PITA lately. :?

next step... like crashfab mentioned, swap out to heavy oil or single hole pistons. hmm... another PITA.

FFRCJosh · 02-21-2006, 10:35 PM

WOW, another nice TLT build up, ouch on the shaft though

crash · 02-22-2006, 12:19 AM

When I was talking about "exposed" shaft at ride height I was refering to how the rig reacted when climbing. The less shaft you have the more the nose will lift on climbs(no matter how much anti squat from what I am finding out due to these rigs being so light) with no limiting straps because the shock is able to extend on climbs. But another issue you will have with the shock almost fully extended at ride height is you end up with a suspension that works mainly on compression. So really you want your shock close to the middle and run a limiting strap so the nose won't pick (which also causes what weigth is on the nose to shift to the rear--if you watch the 1:1 comp buggys you will see that run winch's to there diffs to transfer the weigth to the nose when climbing)..

Those pics were taken while driving

But I ordered 3 different spring rates/40w shock oil to play with this weekend. Plus I also ordereded 2 more sets of axle shafts

Thanks TLTjosh I am pretty happy how well its coming for my first ever rig. But then again I spent at least 6-7 hours just searching/reading.....

customxprone1 · 02-22-2006, 12:46 AM

very sweet rig....preety how mine is ending up. Thanks for all the info it helped a ton!

crash · 02-22-2006, 12:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by customxprone1

very sweet rig....preety how mine is ending up. Thanks for all the info it helped a ton!

Thanks... Found some usefull info----very cool

crash · 02-22-2006, 12:54 AM

Thanks rick for the brake fluid trick. I ended up letting it soak on the body for a couple hours and then rubbing it while wearing latex gloves then I washed it off with a good pressure faucet--worked like a champ.

crash · 02-22-2006, 12:57 AM

So once it was stripped of paint I decided to do a lil more cutting (got a new dremel set that made it a ton easier to work on the body). So I prepped it and this is how it turned out this time around---much much better

The one thing I don't like about this body is the fact of the winch being molded into the body. I would have loved to do something creative with the grill area but the winch is just in the damn way

customxprone1 · 02-22-2006, 01:04 AM

Good point on the grill/winch.....I think that just sold me on the bronco bod. Quick question for ya...Do you know if you fill a hole with JB, can it be drilled after drying? Basiclly I effed up and drillled my holes for my links on one side to low and am afraid after wheeling it that I will just rip them from the frame. Also where(mesurement wise) did you drill yours?

02-20-2006, 08:14 PM	#44
crash I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Gold Bar Posts: 2,832	Here is one of my first good OOOOPS Was out playing at work and all of a sudden lost power to a rear tire I need chromo's Last edited by crash; 01-14-2008 at 07:44 PM.

02-20-2006, 08:18 PM	#45
crash I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Gold Bar Posts: 2,832	So I went ahead and drilled some new holes for the shocks and took some of the angle out of them and took the 2 2.75lb spring I had and put them kitty corner to help with the torque twist. Needless to say it helped but there is still a little there. I also took some of the verticle seperation out of the rears on the chassis side. Its slowly getting better.. I am ordering some more springs and some 40w shock oil so I will be experimenting a little more on that once I get the goods. Last edited by crash; 01-14-2008 at 07:44 PM.

02-20-2006, 08:29 PM	#46
crash I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Gold Bar Posts: 2,832	One thing that was bugging me since I relocated the shocks the nose would lift (so would the rear when dropping off steep stuff) now since I had less shaft showing on the shocks(before when the shocks were canted steeper the shocks where pretty much fully extended at sitting hieght). So I figured it was time to do some limiting straps(I never ever expected I would take this damn thing this far ). So I went to home depot and got some 1/16 cable and got some of those crimp things (sorry I forget what they called) but I was having them break when I tried to crimp them down. So I took some crimp ends for wiring (16-18 guage)and modified them to crimp loops in the cable. Now from my experiance on the 1:1 stuff unless you are wanting to limit your shock extension you want to run the limiting stap right in the middle so you won't interupt your flex but will keep both shocks at the same time from extending. I took the stock upper cross bars and tossed them. took some 1/4" material that I used for my links and center drilled them. I took one of the brass bushings that used to be on the stock cantalever and cut them to make a smaller bushing so the strap will stay centered on the chassis(loop isn't big enough to pop out of the grove). And on the axle side I looped the strap again and used the spacer in the center link backet . Worked great. As you can see (sorry bad angle) when flexed the strap is not tight. Last edited by crash; 01-14-2008 at 07:44 PM.

02-20-2006, 08:32 PM	#47
crash I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Gold Bar Posts: 2,832	I was amazed just HOW well it performs on climbs/drop offs. Its very stable now and I can tell exactly what its going to do. Even on climbs when the strap is tight it doesn't inhibit the fronts ability to flex. Last edited by crash; 01-14-2008 at 07:45 PM.

02-20-2006, 08:35 PM	#48
crash I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Gold Bar Posts: 2,832	I guess I was having a lil too much fun.. It cracked the yoke where one of the set screws are. So I went and drilled 2 new holes and tapped them for the 3mm set screws. I also went and notched a flat spot on the pinion to help the driveshaft stay put I also ordered some traxxas steel yokes. Last edited by crash; 01-14-2008 at 07:45 PM.

02-19-2006, 03:22 PM	#41
customxprone1 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Escondido Posts: 154	mk cool guys that helped a lil, thank ya much. Nice build btw!

02-20-2006, 09:32 AM	#43
FFRCJosh Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: over there Posts: 264	That really is coming along, from the pages 1&2. Keep it up! Josh

02-20-2006, 08:49 PM	#49
crash I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Gold Bar Posts: 2,832	Here are a couple pics of how the stampede tranny sits in the stock TLT chassis As you can tell the mounting screws are basically centered on the chassis You will also have to grind a little off the chassis for the spur gear. And to make it fit between the chassis plates you will have to grind the tranny down on the oppisite side of the mounting screws.. Pretty simple really.... Last edited by crash; 01-14-2008 at 07:45 PM.

02-21-2006, 05:51 AM	#52
WRXronald Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Nebiru, OuterSpace Posts: 500	... Looks good on the rocks like that body looks better with that little 'window' detailing you added.. if you don't care much how 'clean' it looks, then do like some others (myself included) and take a black sharpie and color in the windows areas... works 'ok' at least. also--- looks like you could go fairly near to vertical with the shocks if you wanted just by drilling extra holes in the side plates. you'd probably have to give up a little shock travel i'm guessing. i didn't quite follow about having 'max' shock extension at full ride height? i have my PTI setup for 1/2 shock travel at full ride height, thus allowing one side to extend equally to other side's compression when articulating--- not sure if that's the right setup, but it just seemed sensible to do it that way to me. if i can conjure up the time this weekend, i'm going to try and make some 'ghetto' upper shock mounting plates, plop them on top of the chassis rails (PTI stock frame) and put the shocks as near to vertical travel as possible. i'm really curious to see how much a vertical shock setup will eliminate twist. i'm just hoping to eliminate 'some' of the twist and allow the chasiss/body of the rig to return to 'center' more effectively once all 4's settle to even ground. (hate it when it settles/leans in one direction or another after finding flat ground ). i like that cable and crimp idea... mines much more ghetto looking with zip ties , but essentially is the same idea/functionality-- it helped the setup ALOT! keep with it... amazed to see it going over that set of rocks, very impressive! did you place it for photos or crawl it right up and over? Last edited by WRXronald; 02-21-2006 at 05:54 AM.

02-21-2006, 08:02 AM	#53
WRXronald Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Nebiru, OuterSpace Posts: 500	Uh oh... just realized as i'm searching towerhobbies for some sort of good upper shock mount plate to use--- when the tires articulate to full upward travel, they are going to run into the shock bodies at full travel aren't they... DAMN IT RATS!!! that's gonna kill that idea. i'll have to just decrease the angle of mount like crashfab did, rather than go for complete vertical 90 degree mounting. torque twist is becoming quite the PITA lately. :? next step... like crashfab mentioned, swap out to heavy oil or single hole pistons. hmm... another PITA.

02-21-2006, 10:35 PM	#54
FFRCJosh Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: over there Posts: 264	WOW, another nice TLT build up, ouch on the shaft though

02-22-2006, 12:19 AM	#55
crash I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Gold Bar Posts: 2,832	When I was talking about "exposed" shaft at ride height I was refering to how the rig reacted when climbing. The less shaft you have the more the nose will lift on climbs(no matter how much anti squat from what I am finding out due to these rigs being so light) with no limiting straps because the shock is able to extend on climbs. But another issue you will have with the shock almost fully extended at ride height is you end up with a suspension that works mainly on compression. So really you want your shock close to the middle and run a limiting strap so the nose won't pick (which also causes what weigth is on the nose to shift to the rear--if you watch the 1:1 comp buggys you will see that run winch's to there diffs to transfer the weigth to the nose when climbing).. Those pics were taken while driving But I ordered 3 different spring rates/40w shock oil to play with this weekend. Plus I also ordereded 2 more sets of axle shafts Thanks TLTjosh I am pretty happy how well its coming for my first ever rig. But then again I spent at least 6-7 hours just searching/reading.....

02-22-2006, 12:46 AM	#56
customxprone1 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Escondido Posts: 154	very sweet rig....preety how mine is ending up. Thanks for all the info it helped a ton!

02-22-2006, 12:54 AM	#58
crash I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Gold Bar Posts: 2,832	Thanks rick for the brake fluid trick. I ended up letting it soak on the body for a couple hours and then rubbing it while wearing latex gloves then I washed it off with a good pressure faucet--worked like a champ. Last edited by crash; 01-14-2008 at 07:46 PM.

02-22-2006, 12:57 AM	#59
crash I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Gold Bar Posts: 2,832	So once it was stripped of paint I decided to do a lil more cutting (got a new dremel set that made it a ton easier to work on the body). So I prepped it and this is how it turned out this time around---much much better The one thing I don't like about this body is the fact of the winch being molded into the body. I would have loved to do something creative with the grill area but the winch is just in the damn way Last edited by crash; 01-14-2008 at 07:46 PM.

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02-22-2006, 01:04 AM	#60
customxprone1 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Escondido Posts: 154	Good point on the grill/winch.....I think that just sold me on the bronco bod. Quick question for ya...Do you know if you fill a hole with JB, can it be drilled after drying? Basiclly I effed up and drillled my holes for my links on one side to low and am afraid after wheeling it that I will just rip them from the frame. Also where(mesurement wise) did you drill yours?

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