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Thread: Shiny SW2 not quite working yet

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Old 03-04-2006, 02:38 PM   #1
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Default Shiny SW2 not quite working yet

Hi All,
Well have been lurking for a time and then bit the bullet and ordered a chassis from Brad. Thanks Brad.
Anyway, build was fairly easy, once I had sourced the various parts here in Blighty, thanks to all the great posts from other SW2 owners.
Now I have noticed a trend, or maybe its a little game, in this forum as to who can be the fastest to tell the newbie where the search button is. So I have searched my heart out and still have a problem, which I hope you can help me with.
So here goes..

This is what I'm after:


However when I drive the fella over the fire guard, this what I get:


The t-max shocks just don't seem to be doing the job. The springs just seem too stiff.
Now here is what I have tryed:
(a) Bought the red springs (came with really stiff black ones) - helped a bit
(b) Layed the shocks down - Helped a bit, but I hated the clearance.
(c) Drained all shock oil out - This made things better, but still no cigar.
(d) Confirmed all ball joints in the shocks and suspension are working freely - confirmed.

Now I have seen people in this forum with these shocks and springs and they claim to be working fine. So where am I going wrong?

Here are a few more piccies of the setup (apologies for the bad quailty - only have my phone camera):








The current setup has shorter links at the front, but I have also run with a 50/50. I have also noticed looking at the photos that I had been fiddling with the shocks and the front link mount is not parallel to the ground. Ooops. Please ignore this (and the jumble of wires mess. I'll tidy that up when is working as I want it)

Whilst I'm here, how did those of you who narrowed the HPI spikes get on? If I wanted a narrower wheel than just cutting off the outside rim (i.e leaving just the inner), can you do the stampede wheel trick where the whole tyre rim can be cut off and inserted over the wheel (i.e making the bonding more easy)? Or is it just a case of cutting it off, cutting a band off the wheel and then 'somehow' managing to bond the rim back to the narrowed wheel? (I hope that makes sense).

Thanks for any help you can give me.

Dave.
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Old 03-04-2006, 02:44 PM   #2
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What Weight shock oil are in the shocks?
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Old 03-04-2006, 02:58 PM   #3
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Hi Coreyk,
In the pictures, there is no shock oil in there. I drained it all out to see whether a lighter oil would do the trick. It didn't!!!

Dave.
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Old 03-04-2006, 03:05 PM   #4
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i have been having this same problem...but i think it's my uper links....haven't fixed the problem yet
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Old 03-04-2006, 03:47 PM   #5
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Guys, shock oil does nothing to support the weight of the truck, or make it flex more.

Shock oil controls how fast, got that, HOW FAST (or slow) a shock compresses, and extends.

You need softer springs. My guess is you pushed the truck down to get the flex shot? So it can flex, but won't because WHY? Yes, the springs are too stiff.
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Old 03-04-2006, 03:51 PM   #6
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Sorry you're having the same problem, hopefully we can come up with a solution.

I was having another think, and was wondering if my problem is compounded by having a narrow stance. I have no wideners, which i guess would cause more leverage at the shock in this situation. I have seen some people running with their shocks mounted further in towards the centre of the axle. I will try this tommorrow to see if I get a better result.

I will also try the stock TLT shocks, as the springs are less stiff.

Dave.
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Old 03-04-2006, 03:57 PM   #7
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How much clearance is under the chassis skid, looks to be over 3"? I'd lower it a little and lay the shocks back more. If not, then you will need softer springs, at least for the front shocks. I've seen guys run the red springs in the rear, and it seemed to work good. I run Losi white buggy springs in front on my SW2.

Losi white springs part # LOSA5147
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Old 03-04-2006, 04:00 PM   #8
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Hi EeePee,
Thanks for the reply. I did just press the back down to get the flex shot and I think you are correct that I need some lighter springs (I keep reading about Losi whites, which I guess are lighter than T-max reds?).

I was just wondering why I am seeing rigs out there with the max shocks with the red springs, that are working just fine.

Dave.
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Old 03-04-2006, 04:06 PM   #9
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Wow, I can't keep up with you guys.

Hi Brad,
In the picture I have 3.5" clearance. I have tryed laying the shocks down more and it did help a little. I think I shall order me some Losi whites. Thanks for the part no!!
How did you narrow your spikes, Brad?

Dave.
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Old 03-04-2006, 04:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lurker
Hi EeePee,
Thanks for the reply. I did just press the back down to get the flex shot and I think you are correct that I need some lighter springs (I keep reading about Losi whites, which I guess are lighter than T-max reds?).

I was just wondering why I am seeing rigs out there with the max shocks with the red springs, that are working just fine.

Dave.
Well it all depends on your setup. Before you get different springs, lay your shocks down more. In other words, move the shock back a few holes on the chassis. The further the shok is layed down, the easier it is to compress.

ok scratch that.

You might want to go with the softer springs then.
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Old 03-04-2006, 04:11 PM   #11
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I sectioned my wheels on a lathe, then glued the 2 halves back together.

You could try adding a little weight to the wheels too, it'll help your rig flex. I run 3" of clearance on my 2.2 rig, 3.5" is high for a 2.2 crawler. If you lower the stance it'll put your upper links flat, that will help it flex more too.

Here's a pic of my wheels before and after narrowing.
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Old 03-04-2006, 04:21 PM   #12
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Wheel weights. Now I can see how that will make a difference!!!

Thanks for the picture. I shall be dremelling away tomorrow.

Dave.
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Old 03-04-2006, 06:33 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lurker

I was just wondering why I am seeing rigs out there with the max shocks with the red springs, that are working just fine.

Dave.
I have the reds on the front of mine with some stiffer ones on the back... They flex fine, my shocks are layed down more though. For the spike wheels I just hack off the inner and outter bead. Puts the wheel at like 1 1/2" easier then cutting a section out and glueing
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Old 03-04-2006, 10:33 PM   #14
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I had a similar problem with mine, my upper mount on the shock was binding when it would flex.
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Old 03-04-2006, 10:52 PM   #15
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I have my shocks laying down more than I normally would and I have the stock reds all around and it flexes fine here is a shot EMPTY no motor,ESC,or reciever
it was placed on 3 stock TLT tires on their sides
a poser shot but under its own weight none the less!!

I was tring to see if I was going to have to trim the fender flairs off the truck for a clearence purposes the right rear JUST barely lifted off the ground

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Old 03-05-2006, 06:30 AM   #16
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Lurker: Something has to be binding, you might want to loosen your screws a bit at a time to find out where.
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Old 03-05-2006, 08:50 AM   #17
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I use the same holes (3rd from the end) on the shock mounts, but I used losi whites in front. You might want to play around with your upper link mounts too. I placed mine on those six holes above where yours are.

Hey Bender, whats the part # on those wheels?

Last edited by crawl_tis; 03-05-2006 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 03-05-2006, 09:35 AM   #18
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Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. I have some things to try now (when my son has gone to bed!!).

I shall post up the results.

Dave.
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Old 03-05-2006, 03:13 PM   #19
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I have an answer. Can you spot it?


There was binding on the lower shock. It was as stiff as a ..... well stiff thing.

The answer was a lock nut to hold it in place rather than tightening it right down with a normal nut. This way I could leave it quite loose.

I still need some Losi whites as it is not quite as I want it, but I'm happy now

Oh, and whilst I'm at it, I also managed to widen my stance slightly by using a hex from the little bag of hexes that came with the HPI spikes (amazing what you find in the stuff you just toss aside). I had to slightly dremel the hole out on the pin end to go over the unthreaded part of axle.

I'll post the a picture of the finished SW2 when I have sprayed up the body.

Thanks for your help,
Dave.
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Old 03-05-2006, 05:54 PM   #20
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You could probably also put a little washer in there but yeah, that sounds good that it works well. Glad that fixed it.
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