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Thread: EP's K2-3S **New chassis**

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Old 08-22-2006, 03:30 PM   #61
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Nice work. Did you paint a new body? or remove the flat black on the front grill?
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Old 08-22-2006, 03:41 PM   #62
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Thanks Mike. Tool rules.

In love with accelerating, thanks, and I used brake fluid to get rid of the flat black.
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Old 08-27-2006, 12:30 AM   #63
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I took this thing to the TSC comp today. I'll admit it, I didn't really expect too much only because it's really low, a little wide in the skidplate area and we were going to run on a crapload of boulders. The ones that'll make that center hang up real good. First course I was at -3, negative 3 points. I was pretty damn happy about that. Only a couple reverses, and progress points netted me in the negatives. Second course the right rear hex went bye bye, and it became a truck that liked to pivot on that right rear. Then the front right stripped out too, making it more or less a left burn truck. Or dig, or whatever. It sucked, I pointed out, ended up in 4th.

I blame the brushless Revolver.
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Old 08-27-2006, 12:32 AM   #64
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get metal hexes, and get alum rims! haha!
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Old 08-27-2006, 01:44 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClodCrawlin
get metal hexes, and get alum rims! haha!
Or get these, you won't strip these wheels! I practically have to beat my
G-made widners into these wheels the hex is so tight.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZS52&P=0
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Old 08-27-2006, 02:04 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RXcrawler
Or get these, you won't strip these wheels! I practically have to beat my
G-made widners into these wheels the hex is so tight.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZS52&P=0
I too are running those wheels with my Gmade widners and have had no problems with them.
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Old 08-28-2006, 07:20 PM   #67
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Well, I appreciate the links, and the ideas. I'm working on getting RD400's beadlocks.

Here's the drag brake in action... kinda...
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Old 09-09-2006, 04:49 PM   #68
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After the last TSC comp the hexes in the wheels were toast. So are the ones in my other wheels. It's the Revolver motor, it's just got too much power!!

Anyways, I went to Gerame (RD400) and purchased a set of his beadlocks. Nice work Gerame, they look great. New Mashers too. You don't realize how worn tires are until you size em up to new ones.

Weird how the paint looks orange in the sunlight through the camera.
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Old 09-16-2006, 10:48 AM   #69
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I wasn't too sure the Airtronics servo was getting what it could going through the Mamba's BEC. Since I run 5 cells, I went with a direct connection.
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Old 09-16-2006, 11:01 AM   #70
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very nice, did you runa nitro regulator for that?
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Old 09-16-2006, 11:17 AM   #71
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I like your suspension upgrade. I figured that the stock setup would cause problems, since there was next to no triangluation. Did your mashers bolt down well to your rd400 BL's? I will be running the same setup very soon on my TLT.
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Old 09-16-2006, 12:15 PM   #72
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wow nice review and work on this truck , this is the thread i have been searching to start my scale rig, since i also bought the last kaetwo s type , now i will read this thread a couple of times to get familiarized with the chassis and should start my build sometime next week ,as soon as my tlt axles show up , EeePee thanks for making my build so much easier with this great write up .
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Old 09-16-2006, 12:16 PM   #73
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Looks good. How is your servo performance now that it's direct linked?
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:42 AM   #74
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Hey thanks guys, this truck is definately coming around. It works better then it ever has.

Unimogger, I don't have a servo regulator, the positive and negative from the servo go right to the battery. Actually the wires go to the Deans plug from the Mamba. So 6 volts or more when the battery is freshly charged, and whatever amount of amps the battery can put out. And LIKES2CRAWL, it works very well. It definately woke the servo up big time. I can't find the voltage rating of the Mamba, but it's only a 1.5A BEC.

I changed over from a 12 tooth to a 16 tooth pinion for a little more wheelspeed. The Revolver isn't even phased, it's a powerhouse. Yesterday it shattered my plastic front yoke. Split it right down the middle. So now a metal one has been put on.

Dittohead, actually when the truck was new, the suspension set up worked pretty good. It was when everything had been thoroughly beat did problems start to happen. My RD400 beadlocks didn't clamp down hard enough on the Mashers. Before sanding the face of them, just for the heck of it I wanted to try rubber cementing the bead on, and so far they've held up. If a bead does ever pop off, I'm sanding the faces, I only run Mashers anyways. And using glue on a beadlock wheel defeats the purpose really.
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Old 09-17-2006, 03:52 PM   #75
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EP- Great looking truck. I had to order a chassis after see yours. Now alls I need is the motor. Where did you get it?
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Old 09-17-2006, 05:42 PM   #76
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Thanks bruiserin dude, I got the motor from a vendor here, JRH at www.HolmesHobbies.com
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Old 09-25-2006, 04:17 AM   #77
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I lie. I need a few more things. What size links are you running? Also on your RD beadlocks are you running them with air holes or not?
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Old 09-26-2006, 06:20 PM   #78
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Post 18 had the part numbers for the links.

EP's K2-3S **New chassis**

I don't have air holes in the beadlocks, but they need them. They're way too bouncy.
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Old 10-14-2006, 06:57 AM   #79
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Lil' updiggity on this one. It's been a solid truck for the most part. The plastic yokes I have on the tranny side of the driveshafts are acting like a fuse, and I've popped 3 of them. For $4 a pair, I think I'm happy with that. They're easy to replace, and cheap.

Instead of the wheel's hex rounding out, the actual hex is stripping, which is fine by me.

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Old 10-14-2006, 08:27 AM   #80
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i have the same set-up as you and ive done the same thing.......
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