TLT: Shibee

[Nylintjunkie]

yea i made one from the stock:




it crawled good after moving the battery to above the servo, BUT i orded my SW2 tonight so cant wait to get it and do some real crawling:-P

[RockRevolver]

yea Im looking into one of the more scale chassis Ive seen on this site, there arent to many builds on them so Ima keep it to myself till I get it built But jus as a tease Im going to be running shocks with springs in the front and shocks w/o springs in the rear

[RockRevolver]

ok question time! I was looking on how to widen the wheelbase to run the mashers. Who here is running the Super Blackfoot axels and are they eanough to clear the rustler rims? If someone could get back to me soon that would be great!

Thanks,
-RR

[RockRevolver]

::cough, bump cough::

will someone please respond to me so I can get this show on the road Id like to only make one purchase and get it rite then have to send them back if they would even let me return those I dont know.

thanks!
-RR

[SammyXp]

I'm running Super Blackfoot axles, but I've got Moabs on Duratrax Overdrive ST wheels. Clears the shocks even when mounted to the outside position of my links. (you can sorta see it in this pic.)

I went a long way with both the stock chassis and the stock shocks. Lock the diffs, work on links, wheelbase, triangulation, etc. Then get a fancy chassis and bigger shocks.

[RockRevolver]

well I came acrost a 1:1 car delema that cost me almost $400...my rc build money:-( so now Im stuck playn with the stock stuff for awhile. but its not that bad I guess cause now I get to get the full feel for the TLT

[RockRevolver]

I changed up some links and shock mounts.. Ill take pics in the morning!

[RockRevolver]

while Im looking for the cable I made a purchase...2 purchases today!

from towerhobbies I picked up...
-Traxxas Yokes Countersink Grub Screw BE 2
-Integy Matrix Pro Lathe Motor 55T Single 1
-DuraTrax IntelliSpeed Auto-Sport Forward ESC 1

and to help the project move along I picked up a Tobee Craft Wide Tread Kit for $25 off ebay so now I have time to dremel out the locked Stampede ranny and get her mounted before all the goodies come in!

Ill definately take pics of the build up!

-RR

[AkCrash]

This is for the guys on a budget who aren't going to do comps: If you want to try making your own chassis but dont want to deal with or dont have the tools to do aluminum, plexiglass or lexan works really well as a way to get the fit and placement of everyhting right. When I modded my TLT for an emaxx tranny, I did not want to cut up the stock plates; incase I screwed up on hole placement or what not. I have run mine quite a bit with the plexi plates and have yet to break it.

Just becareful when drilling holes, go slow and dont push the drill to hard, or the plexi can crack and splinter. Cuts real easy with a hack saw to.

[RockRevolver]

I took my axels off and moved the bottom mount to the back sides of the axels and mounted maxx links on them. Then I removed all the hardware off and mounted the shocks dirrectly over the axels. My order from tower came in today also. For the tranny. Ill be swapping it over to my Rustler tranny that I started to hack up this morning to get it ready to be mounted. All that is left is for me is to take out the old tranny, drill new holes for the Rustler tranny to bolt up, put in my electronics and Im on my way! Ill try to get pics tonight.

[RockRevolver]

as to the last post I really need some help with the link angles on my 4link suspension. I have everything else besides that esc that I guess is in the mail but I really need your help guys! if anyone can show/tell me the angles for good articulation that would be great!

thanks,
-RR

[JeremyH]

Originally Posted by RockRevolver

as to the last post I really need some help with the link angles on my 4link suspension. I have everything else besides that esc that I guess is in the mail but I really need your help guys! if anyone can show/tell me the angles for good articulation that would be great!

thanks,
-RR

Post a picture of your current setup (if it is different from those at the beginning of this thread).

[RockRevolver]

Here are some pics!





yes I will be in the 2.2 ;D ;D ;D




I put shocks in the back for sability. I was going for a tortion rig but then decided that shocks in the back would be able to hold up the weight of the batt pack. I kept the shocks off in the front to allow for better articulation and play to crawl over the rocks!

This is a starting point for me and Ima work off that. I need to get more links off tower. I havent ordered them yet so Im using what I got in the house for starters and then Ill be working up from there. I found that keeping one link on the bottom of the axel helps alot in eleaviating front and back twist. So I kept it there and I ghetto rigged some links outa spare parts from the tlt kit and Ima try it out. tweak it, and then try again. This is the testing stage lol. Ill keep yall updated on my progress
O and Im working on a 3rd channel for the front axel to raise and lower it but most of all to limit the play. This is just a bare frame to work off of. ;D


Let me know what ya think!!
-RR

[run2jeepn]

^^^^^^There is so much wrong with that. I have no clue where to start. I hope no one try's to copy your set up.

[MattH]

Originally Posted by run2jeepn

^^^^^^There is so much wrong with that. I have no clue where to start. I hope no one try's to copy your set up.

Wow, that was a helpful post. I think he said he's building ...

a trail truck

(aka rock crawler and basher), and he said ...

This is a starting point for me and Ima work off that

and ...

Im using what I got in the house for starters

and ...

This is the testing stage lol.

I don't think this is an attempt at comp rig or a hardcore crawler. I think he's having some fun, experimenting and working his way towards a more serious build. I think he knows it's just thrown together when he said it was ...

ghetto rigged

but good job helping the guy out.

[mrwonderful]

Well said.

[Ace138]

First, I would lay the pede down. You will have to do more cutting on the chassis, but it will be worth it. If your not sure about where to cut ask J.H to send you some pics of his stock mod chassis.

Second, I would made a skid for the belly of the chassis. Once you get your chassis done I would then move to the susp.

Third , I would lay the chassis up on CDs cases and move the axles to desired wheel base, somewhere around 12-12.5" (mine is at 12"). Move link backets like in the "FAQ: TLT-1 to TLT-Crawler ***NEWBIES READ!!!***" thread. Then either make your own links or buy Tmaxx turnbuckles.

This should get you going in the right direction. Also use the search button on the forum when you get stuck. Good luck

[EeePee]

Originally Posted by MattH

Wow, that was a helpful post.

As was yours.

[RockRevolver]

Matt thanks for backing me up we all know he can be a dick sometimes

I have a new chassis on the way and some new tires n such so Im sure this will get interesting over the next few weeks

[MattH]

Originally Posted by EeePee

As was yours.

I agree. Thank you.

Originally Posted by RockRevolver

Matt thanks for backing me up

No problem. I think it's sometimes better to build a rig up the way you're doing yours. First, you learn a lot by experiementing and seeing first hand what works and what doesn't. Second, you won't end up dumping a whole load of cash at once. I believe you'll find that the key element is center of gravity (CG). I have found that having a low CG is much more valuable than huge amounts of suspension articulation. A good example would be S-Dog's (aka Scott's) build. It's simple, inexpensive to build and has a really low CG. It works very well in our neck of the woods.