RCCrawler Forums - The "Real" TLT-Stick

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I have made a torque twist stopper and articulation control rod, a steel rod on the right side, opposite the shock. This can be adjustable for desired stopping position and use it instead of using shock at the most stretch position to stop the twist. Really help and very strong.

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l1..._Stick024a.jpg

Hey, nice rig.

I almost went to Bangkok & Pattaya, but I went to Moab instead.:lol:

Damn! I am utterly impressed with your work and your english. 8)

but havent you lost the true advantage of a stick which is ground clearance?

I wanna know how much it cost you to get parts to Bangkok.

Wow, looks great. Nice build. I like the body looks good.

The body looks cool and fits the chassis perfectly. Nice work on this truck.

I am digging that body. Nice.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ColquittCustom405

I wanna know how much it cost you to get parts to Bangkok.

Shipping from US to Bangkok is around $35 with EMS. Every part in this car are from local here.

Axle from my old TLT-1
Dyna Blaster Tranny (used) from my friend $17.50
Main chassis tube, cut, welded and polished $5.00
Aluminum sheet 2 sq.ft. for gearbox cage $7.50
Aluminum rod for links, 15 feet long, $3.80

Cheap?

Motor, ESC, Receiver and servo from LHS

Nice job on your truck.

I have been thinking on other ways to improve on it. One person talked about the perpose of a stick is to gain ground clearance. So the lower links and the drive shafts have to go. Yes I know the drive shafts are needed but they can be relocated. If you were to get two right angle gears like the Dremel attachment. Or somthing simular.
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...b/90dremrl.jpg
On the output side make a coupler to attach it to the pinion shaft on your axle. Also it would need a plate to attached to the axle so it does not spin. On the input side is where you can attach a tube for the stick chassis, the drive shaft would be on the inside of the tube. the tranny can be mounted upside down so the driveshafts are on the top. The tube would need to have a "bridge" in the center to connect the two tubes together. On the bridge the tranny could be mounted too.
Now back to the axles. Now that the right angle gears are mounted to the axles, they are going to need to be modified. The pinion gear shaft should be facing up. So now the wheels turn up and down not left and right. To fix this the axle tubes need to be cut, turned 90 degrees and glued toghether.
There is shock mounting and a few other samll things too. But that shoud get a good torsion stick and ground clearance.

Any questions feel free to ask.

Steve

Great idea, Steve. I've never think about angle gear like this before. This weekend I'll go to hardware market in Bangkok and look for something like your recommendaion. Thanks. Will update what I find for gearing on Monday.

One thing I forgot to mention is on the input part of the right angle gear you might want to make some sort of a swivel joint for articulation. Also a T-maxx diff could be used that is locked and get a 2.86:1 reduction as well. It might be cheaper to use and to modify. How to use it would be to connect one outut of the maxx diff to the input of your axle and the input to the output of your tranny. Hope this helps.

Steve

Damn that right there done it for me. Thats body looks killer on there.