09-18-2006, 09:34 PM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 427
| Socket to Ya, Front Dig
I thought either rear steer or front dig. Rear steer got ruled out right away as I've never flet I needed it more than 2 times. SO dig it was. Here's how I did it.... Rear Driveshaft setup: I thought of a different way to lock-out the locking sleeve other than everyone elses way with a jungle gym of linkages. Use a socket and hex. I used a 14mm Savage hex drilled out to 7/16" to fit the Pede Female shaft. Then drilled and tapped opposite sides of the hex and threaded in set screws to keep the hex from spinning on the shaft. The socket is a 14mm, 12-point, 3/8" drive socket. Perfect size to fit over the driveshafts. 12-point was chosen for obvious reasons....more chances to grab the hex. Then I brazed a drop down bar with a nut brazed to the end of that. Driveshaft "Open/Locked" Front Dig Engaged: Drive shaft closed, 4wd engaged: Completely Installed: the engagement of the hex doesn't need to be all the way in the socket, just enough to grab it. This helps it release easier when trying to engage 4wd. |
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09-18-2006, 09:38 PM | #2 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA
Posts: 11,196
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Very smart idea. I like how you get the rear tires to lock.
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09-18-2006, 10:39 PM | #3 |
Trying to have Fun Again Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: In your fridge stealing a beer
Posts: 2,923
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Great Idea but how does the slide connect with the top to make a whole drive shaft? It look's like you cut off the spline's.
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09-18-2006, 10:41 PM | #4 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 2,489
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no look closer at the second pic, and I think you might need some more grab on the male shaft because there is only like .4" to .5" and might strip if a shock came unmounted because of pulling the axle down further; an idea.
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09-18-2006, 11:27 PM | #5 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Saginaw
Posts: 1,721
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Nice work, very creative. I also like the way you lock out the rear during the dig. Very cool |
09-19-2006, 12:33 AM | #6 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: dallas
Posts: 866
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good design. i like it ,I wonder how long the metal hex will stay on the slip shaft with only 2 set screws? can you find a plastic hex that you could ca on?
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09-19-2006, 04:10 AM | #7 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA
Posts: 11,196
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09-19-2006, 06:48 AM | #8 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 427
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You don't need much spline engagement to have 4wd. Plus with the angle (or lack there of) of my rear drive shaft it doesn't really telescope in/out at all. So when it's engages it's in and not moving. I just chamfered the splines to help it engage easier. Plus you have to remember you need to have that Locking Sleeve disengage from the splined drive shaft before it engages into the locking ring or then you have big problems the hexs' set screws are countersunk into the drive shaft. The set screws aren't just sitting on top of the shaft hoping to grab the plastic. They're thread down into that portion. I did have it happen when I didn't drill the holes. I was thinking plastic would be too weak for the locking hex and get deformed, causing bad engagement eventually. |
09-19-2006, 07:31 AM | #9 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: salunga
Posts: 717
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very cool idea!!! well done. I just got mine up and running myself, just got a few bugs to work out.
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09-19-2006, 07:38 AM | #10 |
Dirt Addict Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Stumblin' thru the parking lot of an invisible 7-Eleven
Posts: 1,053
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Nice setup....cool to see another method. Jay |
09-19-2006, 07:42 AM | #11 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: FLAGSTAFF
Posts: 3,728
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way to think outside of the box! nice work!
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09-19-2006, 08:06 AM | #12 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Santa Clara
Posts: 1,456
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VERY nice job man. Very nice. Now you will be unstopable at the comps. As if you weren't before, this will just drop your points that much more. I look foward to seeing it at Niles. -Sam |
09-19-2006, 12:33 PM | #13 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Trussville, AL
Posts: 1,762
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very creative and nice use things. is that a micro servo? how well does it work and stay in place on the links?
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09-19-2006, 01:28 PM | #14 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: $t. Helen$, OR
Posts: 1,082
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That is the sickest dig system.. NICE!!!
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09-19-2006, 02:56 PM | #15 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 427
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Yep it's a Hitec HS-60 Micro servo. The little black tabs are made for a 1/4" O.D. (which my links are) and when I tightened the mounting screws down, it's solid. |
09-19-2006, 03:15 PM | #16 |
Powered by Awesome Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 3,622
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An idea worth copying!!!!! Great mod!
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09-22-2006, 06:58 AM | #17 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Thailand
Posts: 7
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Clever idea. I suggest you to use a REVO bone, it's stronger than in pic. |
09-22-2006, 07:07 AM | #18 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Thailand
Posts: 7
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09-22-2006, 09:22 AM | #19 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 2,206
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Stronger, sure. But you also run into the issue of fitting it next to your spur, depending on the tranny. What are you using for the locking sleeve? Obviously that has to rotate, I'm just not sure what fits that female end exactly. |
09-22-2006, 09:52 AM | #20 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 427
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I've never had a problem with the Pede's. Revo is just too huge. Plus I would need to use a 17mm hex or larger. Everything would be gigantic and waaay overkill. the locking sleeve is a female pede slider. The locking sleeve does not rotate independently from the main driveline to the pinion. Those two are always meshed. The shift fork allows the drivline to spin without taking the linkage around with it. Just like a manual transmission. I'm actually refining this right now using Jato drivelines and a better servo. Will post it up in a day or so. Never used Jato's but the engagement seems smoother, just hope they are as strong and the pedes'. |
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