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Thread: Johnson420's 2.2 Comp Rig

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Old 09-22-2006, 04:29 PM   #21
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what time are you going sunday?
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Old 09-22-2006, 04:53 PM   #22
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Aaron did you shim the diffs? If not you may want to do this. We've been seeing a big number of blown ring and pinions lately. The one in my new rig only lasted 2 days at the nationals and about an hour after that.
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Old 09-22-2006, 05:16 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Del Monte
what time are you going sunday?
10:00am Sunday


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockpiledriver
Aaron did you shim the diffs? If not you may want to do this. We've been seeing a big number of blown ring and pinions lately. The one in my new rig only lasted 2 days at the nationals and about an hour after that.
Not yet..... but now I am, Thanks Brian
Is this what I wanna use to shim the ring and pinion
Traxxas Fiber Washers 5x8mm part # 1985
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJJ88&P=ML
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Old 09-22-2006, 07:16 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockpiledriver
Are you guys brothers?
no just old punk rock bros from high school days,who both love rc world.how about thoes traxisdrive yocks,still need the motor 65 turn maybe this weekend if poss.
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Old 09-22-2006, 07:22 PM   #25
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Yep, mine blew out about 5 min after Brians on the same rockpile.
Just got the parts to fix it. Ohh and by the way that brushless motor is sick!!!!
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Old 09-22-2006, 07:32 PM   #26
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Nice Job Aaron, looking forward in competing with that machine
What about the shimming? Where exactly do they go?
Whats Up Twisted420
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Old 09-22-2006, 07:59 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnson420
Trans: AE Stealth with welded Traxxas Stub Axle Rear Street Sport #4253
Got any pics of that set up? Which stealth is it? Original, B2/B3, or B4?
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Old 09-22-2006, 08:01 PM   #28
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looks great, aaron! i have the TLT shocks on my SW2 rig as well. they seem to work fine.

my pop will be running in 2.2 at mt. baldy..........with a VW body!
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Old 09-25-2006, 09:59 PM   #29
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Looking forward to competing with you ALL this weekend

Here's a few picture's from Sunday at The Spot

Quote:
Originally Posted by rockwerks
also grind the lips off the bottoms of those tlt axle housings.... It will make a world of difference on not getting hung up
Axle's are shaved now, Thanks


Quote:
Originally Posted by LIKES2CRAWL
Nice looking rig, now go roll it a couple times so it looks like it's getting used.
How's this for a start


Quote:
Originally Posted by clodstall
nice rig. you said you made it on the first try. what the back side of that or the side you can see in the pics? good clean job.
Rock profile, The guys that have tried to climb it understand


Quote:
Originally Posted by KRAWLR4life
Nice Job Aaron, looking forward in competing with that machine What about the shimming? Where exactly do they go?
*edit* Changed Shimming
Now
One shim to push the ring gear towards the pinion

I had it setup
One shim behind the pinion inside the axle to push the pinion gear towards ring gear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RivBlueNoma
Got any pics of that set up? Which stealth is it? Original, B2/B3, or B4?
Tranny is a Stealth B3
Bender View

Top View

Last edited by Johnson420; 09-27-2006 at 09:34 PM.
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Old 09-25-2006, 10:39 PM   #30
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Few questions about the street sport output...

-did you cut the shaft off ?
-How are/do you change driveshaft ? If and when it breaks or need to joint ? To me it seem like a pain in the @ss to change since you welded the street sport output yoke to sleath output yokes.
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:35 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric113
Few questions about the street sport output...

-did you cut the shaft off ?
-How are/do you change driveshaft ? If and when it breaks or need to joint ? To me it seem like a pain in the @ss to change since you welded the street sport output yoke to sleath output yokes.
If I understand what your asking

The shafts are cut just short enough to fit inside the outdrives, one outdrive is deeper than the other.

The DRIVE SHAFTS just snap on and off the steel outputs on both sides.
And since all the output yokes are steel they shouldn't break.

If I did need to open up the stealth for some reason, I would need to grind off the two little spot welds. no biggie
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Old 09-26-2006, 01:05 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnson420

Rock profile, The guys that have tried to climb it understand

psh... I climbed both sides this afternoon
rig looks great though, I can't wait to compete against it.

also, is it just me, or are you running the moab's backwards?
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Old 10-14-2006, 12:30 PM   #33
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Well I had my 1st break

I was going up steep incline with the rear hopping when my lousy tac welds broke free on the rear tranny output.



While I had it taken apart I took some pictures of the Stealth Tranny Mount for Bender's SW2 chassis using existing tranny holes.
Mount is a 2" X 3" 1/4 inch Aluminum plate with few hole drilled.




The new tac welds should hold fine now.
Added some black paint to help prevent rust on the welds.

Other than that little break, I'm very impressed with what it can climb.
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Old 10-14-2006, 08:56 PM   #34
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Just an FYI, thats not a B3 Stealth, thats an original Stealth tranny from an old gold tub RC10.
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Old 10-14-2006, 11:13 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RivBlueNoma
Just an FYI, thats not a B3 Stealth, thats an original Stealth tranny from an old gold tub RC10.
Thats not the tranny I had in my Gold Tub RC10.....
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Old 10-15-2006, 12:16 AM   #36
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thats that rock no one could get up with their supers. thas why i like tlts
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Old 10-15-2006, 01:05 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnson420
Looking forward to competing with you ALL this weekend

Here's a few picture's from Sunday at The Spot




How's this for a start





*edit* Changed Shimming
Now
One shim to push the ring gear towards the pinion

I had it setup
One shim behind the pinion inside the axle to push the pinion gear towards ring gear.


Tranny is a Stealth B3
Bender View

Top View
Looking good, did I miss somewhere the part # for the shims to shim the R&P in the axles?
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Old 10-15-2006, 01:56 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by run2jeepn
Thats not the tranny I had in my Gold Tub RC10.....
Well then you must have had the original 6 gear tranny in yours then. Because Ive had several gold tubs with that stealth tranny, still have one here.
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Old 10-15-2006, 06:06 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LIKES2CRAWL
Looking good, did I miss somewhere the part # for the shims to shim the R&P in the axles?
Post #23 has the part # I used.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RivBlueNoma
Just an FYI, thats not a B3 Stealth, thats an original Stealth tranny from an old gold tub RC10.
When I bought the tranny the guy said B3/T3 Stealth.
I replaced the case with Associated Stealth Tranny Case #6565
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2859&P=7

Quote:
Originally Posted by supercrawlerfreak
thats that rock no one could get up with their supers. thas why i like tlts
That ROCK is always fun.... It's one of those you have to conquer every time your out at the Spot.
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Old 10-15-2006, 07:18 PM   #40
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I didn't use those Fiber shims you gave us a link to in post #23 but I did use shims from disc brakes for a bicycle. They are the same width (.5mm) as the ones you posted. I started out using 1 shim per pinion gear and actually stripped out the rear ring and pinion after a while. I ended up putting 3 shims in per pinion (1.5mm of shimmage) and it seems a little tight, 2 shims per axle would be best. I just wanted the extra insurance that I wouldn't trash another ring and pinion
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