RCCrawler Forums

rockbender · 11-18-2006, 10:13 AM

? hum

Jeckler · 11-18-2006, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockbender

? hum

! mumble

Jeckler · 11-18-2006, 05:37 PM

Got a drill press yesterday. The basic 5-speeder was on sale at HF, but the next level up was in the same pile, and without asking, they gave it to me for the same price. It adds a keyless chuck and a light. The chuck is very smooth, and locks with no effort. The light isn't a 500watt halogen, but it does make it easer to see what's going on.
To keep from scratching the face of the Revolvers, I cut out part of the TLT box and laid it down on the deck.

By jeckler at 2012-05-04

I also bought a rotary tool assortment set. It came with the normal set of cutoff wheels, and also 3 heavy duty ones. That's what I used.

By jeckler at 2012-05-04

Cutting....

By jeckler at 2012-05-04

Done....

By jeckler at 2012-05-04

And clean...

By jeckler at 2012-05-04

I simply used my fingernail to pick off the melted plastic. I had to resort to a razor blade to get into the tights spots on the inside, and also used it to cut through the ribs. I wanted to keep as much of the rib intact so i could still use it. Plus I don't have to worry so much about centering the bead, it just falls into the right spot.
I seem to have forgotten to take any more pics after that, but it was a simple task to lay a bead of CA on the wheel, and drop the tire bead over it. Then I put them all face down on the bench, put a 2x4 on top then put two gallons of paint on top of that and left them to dry overnight. This morning I reinforced the ribs and called them done. These three are 1.5 inches wide.

Next up, links. Got 51" of 1/4 steel brake line tonight. Mock up starts tomorrow.

Rc EnthuSiasTs · 11-18-2006, 06:12 PM

if you dont mind me asking...how much was the drill press?
I would like to get one myself, but would like a cheap one!

codizzl · 11-18-2006, 06:14 PM

hey im makin my k2 build also infact it should be here today but the shocks u said u bought the evader bx front shocks, i want them to they look good the tc shocks are to small so where did u get'em??? can u plz pm me back thanxs

dezfan · 11-18-2006, 06:21 PM

Don't you love a drill press for narrowing wheels.

Jeckler · 11-18-2006, 07:43 PM

RC, the press was $40. Seems like a good deal. Keep in mind, that this press doesn't have a laser sight like some of the more expensive ones do, and the table is adjusted manually. On some of the nicer ones, there's a hand crank to raise and lower. On this one you loosen the lock and hope you don't smash a finger. Well, not quite, but it does take some patience for this kind of stuff.

codizzl, I bought them off eBay. IIRC, they're approx 80mm. I haven't received them yet, so don't know how well they work.

Dez, me likey!

Rc EnthuSiasTs · 11-18-2006, 07:45 PM

thanks for the info, yeah i figured it was probably cheaper quality, but hey it gets the job done

Jeckler · 11-19-2006, 12:12 PM

This morning I tackled links. I'm using 8-32 rod, and large Revo ends.
I want my wheelbase to be between 12" and 12.5". So I marked three places on my (greasy workbench), at 0,6 and 12.

By jeckler at 2012-05-04

Then I mounted up the ball ends to the axle and frame, and placed the frame at what I think my ride height is going to be with the shocks I bought (but haven't arrived yet). I marked the center point of the frame and squared it to the middle mark on the workbench

By jeckler at 2012-05-04

I placed the axle in the approximate spot and got a rough measurement for rod length. I started with the lowers. I threaded a couple nuts onto the rod, then made the cuts. I cleaned up the cuts, used some sandpaper, then used the nuts to clean up the cuts. After I threaded the ends on, I bolted it back on so i could see what adjustments were needed.

By jeckler at 2012-05-04

Yea, oops. I had flipped the frame over so that I could bolt it up, but forgot to do the same to the axle.
Ok, I fixed that and found that I was at 6.25", fully threaded. So that meant my wheelbase would be a minimum of 12.5". So I unthreaded the frame ends and cut .25" off the rods.
Reassembly went smooth, and I was then at 6.125 with some thread left, so I called it good.

By jeckler at 2012-05-04

To bolt the lowers at the frame end I used one of the spacers that come with the TLT kit, to have it a little cleaner than a bunch of washers. I was even able to use the stock Revo balls.

By jeckler at 2012-05-04
At the axle end I did it similar to the build sheet, with a notable exception; The build sheet calls for the lower link to mount to the face of the axle, and the uppers mount under the shock mount. Since I am traingulating the uppers, I used the spot under the shock mount for the lowers.

By jeckler at 2012-05-04

Now on to the uppers.
The principle is the same, I had to determine what I wanted my pinion angle to be (and hence, caster). Wheelbase was pretty much already determined by the lowers, and won't fluctuate much if at all depending on uppers.
I did better this time, and only had to cut once.
At the axle end, I used the stock TLT mount attached to the MSD mounts with 3x6 bolts and extra acorn nuts left over from my High Lifts. To attach the ends to the mount, I used 3x10 screws and flange nuts.

By jeckler at 2012-05-04
The frame end was 3x15 screws, 3mm washers, and standard nuts.

By jeckler at 2012-05-04

After a minor adjustment, it was done.

By jeckler at 2012-05-04

Jeckler · 11-19-2006, 02:21 PM

Ok, now we get to sleeve the links. I started by removing them all from the frame, after I built the other 4. I measured and sleeved each one individually. I did it this way in case there was a small discrepancy between the length each link. I measured each one anyway, and my uppers are 94m eye to eye, and the lowers are 127mm.
The brake line is 1/4", steel. I got it from Autozone.
To get the brake line ready, I cut off one end that was pre-flared. The other end I put in the vice so it wouldn't spin when I was using the cutter. I then held up each link and used a razor blade to score it where I wanted to cut. You can't see the mark in this pic beause I can't hold the link, make the mark and take the picture at the same time. Use your imagination.

By jeckler at 2012-05-04
Then I lined up the cutter, tightened it, spun it, tightened, spun it, etc...

By jeckler at 2012-05-04

Then I was left with this.

By jeckler at 2012-05-04

A little sandpaper to clean up the ends is all that's needed. I then unthreaded one end, slid the brake line on, and put the rod end back on. I repeated the process 7 more times, then came inside for some Motrin, because my hands hurt like a biatch. But, they're done.

By jeckler at 2012-05-04

Now, I get to wait for the mail some more.

Rc EnthuSiasTs · 11-19-2006, 06:16 PM

Great job on the links, they look awesome!

JeremyH · 11-19-2006, 06:24 PM

Nice build!

...and that is a good BR album...

dieselfuel · 11-19-2006, 06:33 PM

great job man!! im hittin the LHS tomorrow for some parts and mine will begin very shortly.

kaetwo · 11-19-2006, 08:51 PM

Well done on the links. I love the black look.

dezfan · 11-19-2006, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaetwo

Well done on the links. I love the black look.

Then you'll love mine!

Looking good Jeckler!

Jeckler · 11-22-2006, 03:45 PM

Thanks guys. It's Gettin' There.

Yesterday was almost a disaster. I was tracking the transmission and shocks and the online tracking said that it was undeliverable as addressed, and was being sent back. The last scan was the day before.
I hopped in the car and drove down to my PO. The guy said things like that usually get sent back right away, but he'd look. After dissapearing around the corner for a few minutes, he came back, and he had the package, with NSS handwritten on it. He showed it to me and asked what was wrong with the address because he couldn't see anything, and I said "nothing". It even had the correct +4 code on it. He wanted to show it to someone, so he went and made a photocopy, then sent me on my way.
I got home and tore into it.

By jeckler at 2012-05-04
I locked the diff with 5 minute epoxy. When they say 5 minutes, they mean it. By the time I got the diff cover back on, I could tell it was hardening. By the time the case was buttoned back up, I couldn't turn it. I wasn't going to handle a greasy tranny and take pics at the same time, sorry.
However, I did get a couple pics of what I had to do to get in in the chassis.
First, I cut off the hingepin mounts....

By jeckler at 2012-05-04
Then I had to cut off and flatten the bottom screw area, and notch the area where the tranny sits by the links.

By jeckler at 2012-05-04
Finally, I mounted it in the frame. Tight fit.

By jeckler at 2012-05-04

Still waiting for bearings, then I can do up the axles and figure out how to mount the shocks.

EeePee · 11-22-2006, 05:47 PM

Indeed a tight fit for the tranny. On my shorty I hacked most of the plastic surrounding the motor off. With my brushless Revolver I've had it skip a tooth only once, so it seems to still be pretty strong without that plastic.

Here's a pic: EP's K2-3S **New chassis**

No point really, maybe just to show off that sweet spinning CF Revolver can.

dezfan · 11-22-2006, 06:01 PM

Jeckler, have you tried to mount your shocks w/ Mogers link mounts?

I couldn't get my shocks to clear them.

I'm using the 3S so maybe the 3L will be differant!

It's looking sweet. Good luck!

Jeckler · 11-22-2006, 07:23 PM

I'm using the new ones....
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40071

From my initial mock-up, it's a tight fit between the standoffs and the mount, but they both fit where they're supposed to. I may have to shave the mount a little bit so that the screw head will clear in the forward position, but I haven't gotten that far yet.

dezfan · 11-22-2006, 07:29 PM

Yeah, I had the same ones, just the powder coated version.

I hope they work for you!

They ones in my pic are the ones I ordered after I realized that Mogers weren't going to work.

I ordered them from David @ Xtreme RC.

11-18-2006, 05:37 PM	#23
Jeckler Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX Posts: 597	Got a drill press yesterday. The basic 5-speeder was on sale at HF, but the next level up was in the same pile, and without asking, they gave it to me for the same price. It adds a keyless chuck and a light. The chuck is very smooth, and locks with no effort. The light isn't a 500watt halogen, but it does make it easer to see what's going on. To keep from scratching the face of the Revolvers, I cut out part of the TLT box and laid it down on the deck. By jeckler at 2012-05-04 I also bought a rotary tool assortment set. It came with the normal set of cutoff wheels, and also 3 heavy duty ones. That's what I used. By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Cutting.... By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Done.... By jeckler at 2012-05-04 And clean... By jeckler at 2012-05-04 I simply used my fingernail to pick off the melted plastic. I had to resort to a razor blade to get into the tights spots on the inside, and also used it to cut through the ribs. I wanted to keep as much of the rib intact so i could still use it. Plus I don't have to worry so much about centering the bead, it just falls into the right spot. I seem to have forgotten to take any more pics after that, but it was a simple task to lay a bead of CA on the wheel, and drop the tire bead over it. Then I put them all face down on the bench, put a 2x4 on top then put two gallons of paint on top of that and left them to dry overnight. This morning I reinforced the ribs and called them done. These three are 1.5 inches wide. Next up, links. Got 51" of 1/4 steel brake line tonight. Mock up starts tomorrow. Last edited by Jeckler; 05-04-2012 at 08:17 PM.

11-18-2006, 06:14 PM	#25
codizzl Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: port angeles Posts: 165	k2-3l hey im makin my k2 build also infact it should be here today but the shocks u said u bought the evader bx front shocks, i want them to they look good the tc shocks are to small so where did u get'em??? can u plz pm me back thanxs

11-19-2006, 12:12 PM	#29
Jeckler Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX Posts: 597	Links! This morning I tackled links. I'm using 8-32 rod, and large Revo ends. I want my wheelbase to be between 12" and 12.5". So I marked three places on my (greasy workbench), at 0,6 and 12. By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Then I mounted up the ball ends to the axle and frame, and placed the frame at what I think my ride height is going to be with the shocks I bought (but haven't arrived yet). I marked the center point of the frame and squared it to the middle mark on the workbench By jeckler at 2012-05-04 I placed the axle in the approximate spot and got a rough measurement for rod length. I started with the lowers. I threaded a couple nuts onto the rod, then made the cuts. I cleaned up the cuts, used some sandpaper, then used the nuts to clean up the cuts. After I threaded the ends on, I bolted it back on so i could see what adjustments were needed. By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Yea, oops. I had flipped the frame over so that I could bolt it up, but forgot to do the same to the axle. Ok, I fixed that and found that I was at 6.25", fully threaded. So that meant my wheelbase would be a minimum of 12.5". So I unthreaded the frame ends and cut .25" off the rods. Reassembly went smooth, and I was then at 6.125 with some thread left, so I called it good. By jeckler at 2012-05-04 To bolt the lowers at the frame end I used one of the spacers that come with the TLT kit, to have it a little cleaner than a bunch of washers. I was even able to use the stock Revo balls. By jeckler at 2012-05-04 At the axle end I did it similar to the build sheet, with a notable exception; The build sheet calls for the lower link to mount to the face of the axle, and the uppers mount under the shock mount. Since I am traingulating the uppers, I used the spot under the shock mount for the lowers. By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Now on to the uppers. The principle is the same, I had to determine what I wanted my pinion angle to be (and hence, caster). Wheelbase was pretty much already determined by the lowers, and won't fluctuate much if at all depending on uppers. I did better this time, and only had to cut once. At the axle end, I used the stock TLT mount attached to the MSD mounts with 3x6 bolts and extra acorn nuts left over from my High Lifts. To attach the ends to the mount, I used 3x10 screws and flange nuts. By jeckler at 2012-05-04 The frame end was 3x15 screws, 3mm washers, and standard nuts. By jeckler at 2012-05-04 After a minor adjustment, it was done. By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Last edited by Jeckler; 05-04-2012 at 08:53 PM.

11-19-2006, 02:21 PM	#30
Jeckler Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX Posts: 597	Sleeves! Ok, now we get to sleeve the links. I started by removing them all from the frame, after I built the other 4. I measured and sleeved each one individually. I did it this way in case there was a small discrepancy between the length each link. I measured each one anyway, and my uppers are 94m eye to eye, and the lowers are 127mm. The brake line is 1/4", steel. I got it from Autozone. To get the brake line ready, I cut off one end that was pre-flared. The other end I put in the vice so it wouldn't spin when I was using the cutter. I then held up each link and used a razor blade to score it where I wanted to cut. You can't see the mark in this pic beause I can't hold the link, make the mark and take the picture at the same time. Use your imagination. By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Then I lined up the cutter, tightened it, spun it, tightened, spun it, etc... By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Then I was left with this. By jeckler at 2012-05-04 A little sandpaper to clean up the ends is all that's needed. I then unthreaded one end, slid the brake line on, and put the rod end back on. I repeated the process 7 more times, then came inside for some Motrin, because my hands hurt like a biatch. But, they're done. By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Now, I get to wait for the mail some more. Last edited by Jeckler; 05-04-2012 at 08:26 PM.

11-19-2006, 08:51 PM	#34
kaetwo I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Whales Posts: 2,939	Nice... Well done on the links. I love the black look.

11-18-2006, 10:13 AM	#21
rockbender Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Acton Posts: 176	? hum

11-18-2006, 06:12 PM	#24
Rc EnthuSiasTs Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Santa Rosa Posts: 566	if you dont mind me asking...how much was the drill press? I would like to get one myself, but would like a cheap one!

11-18-2006, 06:21 PM	#26
dezfan I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Happiness is a warm AK. Posts: 12,563	Don't you love a drill press for narrowing wheels.

11-18-2006, 07:43 PM	#27
Jeckler Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX Posts: 597	RC, the press was $40. Seems like a good deal. Keep in mind, that this press doesn't have a laser sight like some of the more expensive ones do, and the table is adjusted manually. On some of the nicer ones, there's a hand crank to raise and lower. On this one you loosen the lock and hope you don't smash a finger. Well, not quite, but it does take some patience for this kind of stuff. codizzl, I bought them off eBay. IIRC, they're approx 80mm. I haven't received them yet, so don't know how well they work. Dez, me likey!

11-18-2006, 07:45 PM	#28
Rc EnthuSiasTs Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Santa Rosa Posts: 566	thanks for the info, yeah i figured it was probably cheaper quality, but hey it gets the job done

11-19-2006, 06:16 PM	#31
Rc EnthuSiasTs Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Santa Rosa Posts: 566	Great job on the links, they look awesome!

11-19-2006, 06:24 PM	#32
JeremyH I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 16,952	Nice build! ...and that is a good BR album...

11-19-2006, 06:33 PM	#33
dieselfuel I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Henderson/Las Vegas, NV Posts: 5,032	great job man!! im hittin the LHS tomorrow for some parts and mine will begin very shortly.

11-22-2006, 03:45 PM	#36
Jeckler Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX Posts: 597	Thanks guys. It's Gettin' There. Yesterday was almost a disaster. I was tracking the transmission and shocks and the online tracking said that it was undeliverable as addressed, and was being sent back. The last scan was the day before. I hopped in the car and drove down to my PO. The guy said things like that usually get sent back right away, but he'd look. After dissapearing around the corner for a few minutes, he came back, and he had the package, with NSS handwritten on it. He showed it to me and asked what was wrong with the address because he couldn't see anything, and I said "nothing". It even had the correct +4 code on it. He wanted to show it to someone, so he went and made a photocopy, then sent me on my way. I got home and tore into it. By jeckler at 2012-05-04 I locked the diff with 5 minute epoxy. When they say 5 minutes, they mean it. By the time I got the diff cover back on, I could tell it was hardening. By the time the case was buttoned back up, I couldn't turn it. I wasn't going to handle a greasy tranny and take pics at the same time, sorry. However, I did get a couple pics of what I had to do to get in in the chassis. First, I cut off the hingepin mounts.... By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Then I had to cut off and flatten the bottom screw area, and notch the area where the tranny sits by the links. By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Finally, I mounted it in the frame. Tight fit. By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Still waiting for bearings, then I can do up the axles and figure out how to mount the shocks. Last edited by Jeckler; 05-04-2012 at 08:28 PM.

11-22-2006, 05:47 PM	#37
EeePee MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 18,928	Indeed a tight fit for the tranny. On my shorty I hacked most of the plastic surrounding the motor off. With my brushless Revolver I've had it skip a tooth only once, so it seems to still be pretty strong without that plastic. Here's a pic: EP's K2-3S New chassis No point really, maybe just to show off that sweet spinning CF Revolver can.

Sponsored Links

11-22-2006, 06:01 PM	#38
dezfan I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Happiness is a warm AK. Posts: 12,563	Jeckler, have you tried to mount your shocks w/ Mogers link mounts? I couldn't get my shocks to clear them. I'm using the 3S so maybe the 3L will be differant! It's looking sweet. Good luck! Attached Images

11-22-2006, 07:23 PM	#39
Jeckler Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX Posts: 597	I'm using the new ones.... http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40071 From my initial mock-up, it's a tight fit between the standoffs and the mount, but they both fit where they're supposed to. I may have to shave the mount a little bit so that the screw head will clear in the forward position, but I haven't gotten that far yet.

11-22-2006, 07:29 PM	#40
dezfan I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Happiness is a warm AK. Posts: 12,563	Yeah, I had the same ones, just the powder coated version. I hope they work for you! They ones in my pic are the ones I ordered after I realized that Mogers weren't going to work. I ordered them from David @ Xtreme RC.

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