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11-23-2006, 11:25 AM
| #41 |
| Rock Crawler  Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 597
|  It's a Roller!
I couldn't wait for bearings. I'm too impatient, especially after getting the shocks and tranny. I had to build the axles. So, I used the brass bushings. When the bearings show up, I could always tear them back down. No pics, cuz I'm sure they've been done to death. Of course I locked the diffs. I did it by flipping one of the bevel gears and locking it in-between the other two. Works tits! After assembling the axles, I went to work mounting them to the links. 1st, this is my idea of organized.....  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 That is every hardware bag, except the center diff, out of the TLT kit, plus all the leftover hardware from 3 High Lifts. Got screws? Yes, yes I do. I got a set of blackfoot axles, and used them in the rear. I need to get another set for the front. I used a 5x11 plastic bushing along with a 5x7x2(?) brass bushing to take up the slack. Perfect fit.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 I built a set of lockouts. I used the 5mm adjusters that are in the TLT kit along with the 3x23 threaded rod. I found out the rod was too long when one end came poking out the ball end of the adjuster. So, I cut a couple 3x20 screws' heads off and used those instead.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 They're attached to the knuckles with a 3x12 tapping screw and a washer, so it doesn't poke out underneath, and uses the TLT ball. At the axle is the same adjuster, but a Revo ball to match the one on the lower link. There's a little slop, but livable. The screws that hold the assembly together are cut down 3x30 tapping screws. I cut them down to approx. 16mm. The MSD link plates are attached to the axles with the stock 3x8 screw. Shocks.... I was up doing this at about midnight last night, so I didn't have the best judgement. At 1 o'clock in the morning, this looked good....  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 This morning, not so much. So I set out to fix it. First of all, it just plain looks ugly. Second, the adjuster rubbed the servo post in the front.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 It doesn't look bad in that pic, but once the suspension was articulated, they touched, hard. To fix the touch, I took the posts and sanded down the edge, using 150 grit sandpaper.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 At this point, they barely touch at full tilt, so I called it good. On to flipping the shocks. I used a longer screw than the one Kaetwo supplies for the uppers. I still used the spacer, but threaded on and tightened a 3mm nut to secure it. I had a piece of rubber tubing that I think came off the motor shaft of the High Lift. I cut it into 4 pieces to use as buffers on top. Then I put on the Evader shocks, follwed by a 3mm locknut.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 For the lowers I used the 4mm balls that were originally on top, along with 3x8 screws.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 I removed the stock Evader lower ends and replaced them with Tamiya 4mm ends. Then I popped the ball on, and mounted them to the standoffs, on the tall part, which I had also flipped around. A better view of that can be seen in the lockout pic above.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 If I wanted to, I could cut off the entire outside of the standoff, as the ball is supported entirely by the inside edge. Front, done.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Rear, done.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 After putting on the wheels and tires, I had to get the typical poser shot. Six inches, baby!  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Current belly clearance is 3 inches. I like. I have tons more pics if anyone wants something specific. Next, driveshafts. FYI: High Lift shafts won't work, too short. Last edited by Jeckler; 05-04-2012 at 08:38 PM. |
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11-23-2006, 11:45 AM
| #42 |
| I wanna be Dave  Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Happiness is a warm AK.
Posts: 12,563
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Looks really good, glad to see that the shocks cleared the link mounts. Waiting on Max shafts myself! |
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11-23-2006, 11:59 AM
| #43 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Whales
Posts: 2,939
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Your one heck of a clean builder! Well done.  |
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11-23-2006, 11:59 AM
| #44 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 597
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Seems to work pretty good. If I had sanded more of the servo post, they wouldn't touch at all but, meh. And thanks, Kaetwo.  Here's what it looks like with my TXT-1's body. I still have the clear one, so I think that's what I'm gonna use for this.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Last edited by Jeckler; 05-04-2012 at 08:39 PM. |
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11-23-2006, 12:11 PM
| #45 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Provo
Posts: 1,868
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wow the txt body looks pretty good one there good work  |
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11-23-2006, 04:13 PM
| #46 |
| Quarry Creeper  Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: sacramento
Posts: 373
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looks awesome |
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11-24-2006, 06:42 PM
| #47 |
| Newbie Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: middle
Posts: 32
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sweet |
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12-02-2006, 06:20 PM
| #48 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 597
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Ok, I finally got some more parts in, but while I was waiting for them, I made some trays to hold the batteries and electronics, and provide some splash protection in case it gets run in water. First I made a template out of a piece of the box the TLT came in. I was planning on mounting them to the underside of the braces, so the slots are for the shocks.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Then I had to find something to use to make them. I thought about going down to Home Depot and getting some Lexan, but then remembered that we used to have some storage bins that had been broken (darn kids), but we still had the lids. I had my choice of purple, or blue. I chose blue. I used a scrolling saber saw to get the rough size, the scored it with a razor, then snapped it off. Nice and clean.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 I installed it using 3x8 tapping screws. Then to provide extra support, i drilled a hole and inserted a zip tie, and attached it around the frame. When flexed up, the shocks clear the tray.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Next I tackled the drive shafts. I used Maxx shafts. Part number 4951x for the shafts, and 4927 and 27x for the yokes. The place I ordered everything from only had one set of 27x yokes out of the 3 sets I ordered, and my LHS didn't have any X's, so I had to get the ones without. I honestly can't tell any difference between the two except for a couple had 3 braille dots, and one had 4. Yokes.... what a pain in the ***. First I had to sand them down. I tried using a cutoff wheel, and it literally exploded as soon as it touched the yoke. So, I did it by hand, starting with 100 grit (I was out of anything lower). Once I got close, I moved down to 150, and sanded in a figure 8 to keep it straight. Then I would test fit it on the trans (or axle, I had to do the same for all 4), to gain just enough clearance, without weakening it too much.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 On the spur side of the trans, I had to clearance it to fit the yoke. I used my rotary tool and who-knows-the-name-of-it tool.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 My bearings finally arrived from Walawala, so I took this time to tear them down and replace the bushings. At the same time, I used one shim behind the axle pinion. Because the shaft is so short, and I was going to drill it for the cross pin, I also left off the e-clip. For some reason I forgot pics of drilling, but this is how I did it. I took two 2x4's and clamped them together. Then I drilled a hole in between them with the appropriately sized bit. Once I took the clamps off, I had a perfect half circle in the wood. This trough is what I layed the shaft in for drilling. To mark the shaft, I simply put on the stock drive cup with setscrew before I took anything apart. It left a perfect countersink for the bit. I then reassembled the axles, and put the yoke on.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 I got another set of Blackfoot axles to put on the front end. In addition to being longer than the stock TLT-1 stubs, they also have more threaded area for the wheel nuts when using the RPM wheels. To start I drilled a hole in a piece of wood to hold the axle. I used a normal cutoff wheel in my drill press to cut the cups down. If they're not cut, you will NOT be turning. The axles are some super steel. I used up that wheel in 5 seconds, and I'm not exaggerating. So, I loaded up a heavy duty cutoff wheel and went to town. I was almost completely through the first axle when the wheel came off the shaft. At first I thought the wheel had broken like so many others before it, until I saw the screw head laying on the press. Uh oh. Luckily I had another shaft and screw, so continued. I made it about a quarter of the way through the second axles before I had to change wheels again. The gray stuff you see below is cutoff wheel material. That wheel should be about twice as big.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Then I had to bevel the ends. So using the same piece of wood, I chucked a 3/8 in. bit and beveled it. Some nice precision work here, huh?  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 On assembling the axles back on the truck, I found that the Maxx driveshafts were too long. What I did to fix that was to cut off a half inch from both male and female ends. I marked the female end a half inch in, and the male end one inch in. I slid the male end in to my mark, and cut where I marked on the female end, after placing the whole thing in the vice so I wouldn't lose a finger, plus it kept the male end from sliding out (a lot of bad jokes could come from making this statement, I'll leave them to your imagination). I also got an Integy 65t lathe motor. I soldered on 3 caps, and wires, then put in in.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 I found the motor was hitting the upper link mount screw. So I took the washer off the nut side, and put it along with two more on the head side to bring it away from the motor. In looking back, I could probably accomplish the same thing by leaving the washers off all together and simply using a shorter screw. I might try that if I ever take the motor back out, as I can't get a wrench on the nut now without doing so.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 I'm running an 87/18 combo right now, so it'll only get better. Speaking of which, here's how close the 87t spur comes to hitting the yoke.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 I don't think I'll be using the stock gear cover without some mods of its own. Finally, I made some heavy duty steering links. These are deceptively simple. The only thing I had to come up with was brake line, and I had some laying around from when I was redoing the brakes on my '68 VW. Like the 4-link, I simply measured the distance between the ends, and used a tubing cutter. I also mounted a 645MG servo, and used a Du-Bro Heavy Duty arm (expensive, but it's all they had. I got 8 I think all together). To assemble it, I used the stock links, but instead of the 4mm ends, I used 6mm, so that I could use 3mm screws and nuts. I also mounted the long link on top. I put a 3mm nut in between the long and short link on the knuckle, to bring the short link more parallel to the long and in line with the servo arm.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 The body has been sent off for painting by JIA. I can't wait to get it back. After that, all it will need is a radio and ESC. It's Gettin' There. Last edited by Jeckler; 05-04-2012 at 08:46 PM. |
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12-02-2006, 06:22 PM
| #49 |
| I wanna be Dave   Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 2,489
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Looks great, Wanna put some maxx yokes on bevel shafts, I screwed up my yokes/bevel shafts! |
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12-02-2006, 06:25 PM
| #50 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 597
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If you wanna send me me some shafts, I'll drill them for you. Just gotta find some first. You could be the guinea pig for an experiement though. The bevel shafts from a High Lift look like they'd fit in the TLT axles. The plus side to this is that it's at least 2-3mm longer, so the yoke wouldn't have to be shaved down so much. |
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12-02-2006, 06:31 PM
| #51 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Happiness is a warm AK.
Posts: 12,563
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Jeckler, I shaved my yokes down on the axle side, I just used the side of wheel on my bench grinder. Works very well. Your build is looking great! This damn snow storm shut down UPS here so I'm stuck w/o parts again!  |
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12-02-2006, 06:49 PM
| #52 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Provo
Posts: 1,868
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wow dude looks clean |
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12-02-2006, 07:48 PM
| #53 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 2,489
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I got the yokes on, just getting the trans mounted and its done WOOT!
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12-02-2006, 07:51 PM
| #54 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Happiness is a warm AK.
Posts: 12,563
| Quote:
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12-02-2006, 07:52 PM
| #55 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 2,489
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I know!
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12-02-2006, 07:55 PM
| #56 | ||
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 597
| Quote:
 Quote:
I've been waiting for parts for about a week. The bearings took 3 weeks to get here from Hong Kong. The other stuff actually came pretty quick, I just procrastinate when it comes to ordering it all. Clod, got any pics of your build? | ||
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12-03-2006, 02:56 PM
| #57 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 597
| It's Alive!
I stole the radio out of my daughter's Wild Willy II. It's a Futaba AM system with a MC230CR ESC. It's slow. I swapped out the 87t (4.83:1) spur for the 78t (4.33:1) and it does better. I may try up to a 21t pinion too (3.71:1). Lots of twist as well. I preloaded the left rear and it seemed to help a little. I'll have to figure out the Duratrax's spring rate and find something stiffer. They're white, so if someone knows the rates, post up. Overall, it seems to do pretty good. The only thing I have to compare it with is my TXT, and that's thing's a pig. I think I'm gonna have a custom pack made up that will sit flat in the front tray, right behind the body post. Then the ESC will be moved up to the brace currently occipied by the stick pack.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Last edited by Jeckler; 05-04-2012 at 08:47 PM. |
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12-03-2006, 03:24 PM
| #58 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Happiness is a warm AK.
Posts: 12,563
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It's looks good. The Duratrax white springs are very light. Try a green in the left rear w/ some heavier oil. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAMV2&P=7 |
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01-06-2007, 05:07 PM
| #59 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 597
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It's finally done. Jason sent me an awesome body, that I detailed today. Bumpers are HPI Savages. Running gear is a TQ-3 radio, Tekin Rebel2 ESC, 645MG servo w/nylon arm, 65t lathe and 6 cell pack. Here's some pics.  By jeckler at 2012-05-04  By jeckler at 2012-05-04  By jeckler at 2012-05-04  By jeckler at 2012-05-04  By jeckler at 2012-05-04 Last edited by Jeckler; 05-04-2012 at 08:48 PM. |
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01-06-2007, 05:19 PM
| #60 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: One Legend.
Posts: 2,134
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Not a single pic outside or showing it flex with that new snazzy body... Dissapointing I tell ya'... :-P |
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