RCCrawler Forums

gopher · 12-12-2006, 08:15 PM

Stock TLT...

I want to build a crawler obviously, but it will be slow going. I definately want to stretch it first and have a graupner 600 right now for a motor.

I figured I could do my own stretch kit for around $15-20? so that won't be included in the $60

should I go lathe motor? tires/wheels? I'm not really sure. The servo is a weak airtronics that comes standard with the blazer setup. I would just like something to run for now, crawl in spring

Unless you think for $60 I could really make it worth while.

ToyotaKing88 · 12-12-2006, 08:22 PM

what esc are you running if it is a good one go with a motor try an axiom 55t

gopher · 12-12-2006, 09:04 PM

hrm... it isn't all that good, but good enough

BL-Racer or somethign like that. My parents got me the tlt kit from ultimate hobbies with an airtronics rx/tx/esc/servo to get started. I know the servo is weak, but good to mess around with.

I figure in spring I'll drop $40 for a better servo (will never be able to spend >100 on the real nice ones).

I am so unsure, some of the steps seem like you should do em at same time...

pede tranny + driveshafts (obvious) and longer links?

I guess I can make my own links and do the rollpin thing to do a quick extension?

twisted · 12-12-2006, 10:10 PM

i would do some searching for used items. you gonna need a pede tranny and they run rite around 50-60. less for a used one on ebay. stock tranny is a no go. bearings,chassis.list is endless.

roadblock · 12-12-2006, 10:15 PM

wheels and tires & lathe OR used pede and lathe then stretch it out.

i'd go with the used pede and lathe u can usually find a lathe and pede cheaper if u look around and by it off someone also dont forget the LHS ;)

dont forget u can get a few bucks for extra tlt parts on ebay

gasshead · 12-13-2006, 04:40 AM

you can get a pede from bbyracing, they charge 45 and they are new...if you only have 65 bucks, i would get the trans, driveshafts, and a better servo...you can mod the stock chassis to run the pede trans. you can upgrade to a better chassis and tires, ect. as you get money, it dont take alot of money to have a capable crawler...in the neighbor hood of 150 to 250 bucks will get the bare minimum to have a good copmeter at the comps

emaxxjeremy · 12-13-2006, 05:18 AM

ya you could find a 645 or similar used for under $20 probably

gopher · 12-13-2006, 07:32 AM

thanks for all the input all!

ya, I won't be in competitions for some time, our club has only really started them and mainly meet just to run, of course, I haven't gone to anything yet since I don't have a crawler.

I will most likely just be driving over toy obstacles in the house that my son will set-up

(3yr old) for awhile.

Big Mike · 12-13-2006, 08:14 AM

You have 60 bucks to drop on top of a stock TLT, is that what you mean?
Spend it on 1/4" aluminum rod or tubing, long set screws, permanent loc-tite, maybe some beefier rod ends.
I had not had an rc car for about 15 years until I stumbled across a crawler for sale on Ebay, seeing that led me to Googling "rc rock crawler" and that led me here. In no time I knew I had to build one. Being on a budget I went with a TLT. Made my own links to stretch the wheelbase keeping the stock link points. Moved the shocks to the axle and ditched the canti's. By sheer luck found some dogbones (RST) that fit my new configuration. Started driving it, and was impressed with what it could do.
But that is the point where you have to be careful. That's when I started noticing things that were hampering the performance, and started wanting to change things. Like moving the lower link mounts off of the bottom of the axle, etc. And unfortunately, changing things usually means spending money.
The stock wheels and tires just blow, they got ditched for some RC4WD beadlocks and HPI Geolanders.
Stock shocks don't cut it, and there are no replacement springs available, so they got swapped for 4 blue anodized Hot Bodies T/E Maxx units. That started me buying every blue anodized nut and bolt I could lay my hands on. Now my chassis is loaded with them.
Regular old plastic-geared low-torque servos just don't make the nut for serious crawling. I blew up a pair of Futaba 2003's in short order, nessecitating a purchase of a pair of JR Racing Z590M's. 85 oz. and metal gears should get me by for a while until I can afford some robot servos.
The better you make things look and perform, the more the sickness will overwhelm you. Be careful!

Big Mike · 12-13-2006, 08:50 AM

It's easy to make new links and stretch your wheelbase, the problem is matching driveshafts to the new configuration. You can try to make things the proper length for an off-the-shelf dogbone, but my opinion is that it's easier to come up with a suspension config. that works first, then match a custom dogbone to it.
I've changed my suspension 3 times now, every time the driveshaft "shrinkage" during suspension articulation was only like 1/8"-3/16". So I've stuck with the stock drive cups and dogbones and have'nt tried to set up sliders yet.
This is how I made my last set of dogbones when I altered my suspension last time around:

When you are press-fitting them together, you just have to be careful about not pressing the assembly too far together. Length is critical - too short and it will fall out, too long and it will make your suspension bind up. Once the thread lock has dried hard, you can take them to the grinder and carefully taper the aluminum to meet the dogbone shaft for maximum clearance.
I've been running dogbones made like this for a couple weeks now w/ no issues...

gopher · 12-13-2006, 09:23 AM

thanks for the drawing, I will definately look into that, I would make the dogbones first and then adjust the links to match

I went to bbyracing and saw they have the pede tranny and integy motor for a total of $70... I could probably sneak that through

, but I'm sure I would need more to make it all work

Big Mike · 12-13-2006, 11:22 AM

No way dude - make your links first, then make the dogbones to match.
That way you are making 4 links first and only having to make 1 dogbone to match - vs. making 1 dogbone first, then having to match 4 link lengths to match that.
If you make the dogbones last you only have 1 critical measurement, vs. at least 2 if not 4 critical measurements by doing the links last, see what I mean?

gopher · 12-13-2006, 01:17 PM

ah, guess I figured they would all be "critical" since I need to make sure all four top are the same and all four bottom are the same (50/50 stance)?

SammyXp · 12-13-2006, 02:47 PM

Dude, if you still have the stock tires - that would be the very first thing I would do! $30 for tires. $10-$15 for wheels. $20 or so to stretch it. $2 for a 3" long 3/16" roll pin to stretch your stock dogbones. The stock tranny is weak, but for climbing over obstacles in the hosue for your 3 year old - it will be find for a while. I ran the stock belt drive trans and extended dogbones for a long time until I started doing more aggressive crawling.

Here's a pic of a drive shaft extended with the roll pin. Just cut the driveshaft in half, hammer each end into the roll pin, and presto - custom length driveshaft. The picture shows a stealth trans, but the dogbones work with the stock trans just as easily.

gopher · 12-13-2006, 06:57 PM

thanks for the comment sammy, I agree, I have heard a lot, I guess the only thing I am truly worried about wheels and tires is the servo can only push 50oz I think.

I really like your build and I was looking at that to do a lot of things! I love the chassis you did using the shock towers... and i'll definately use threaded rod and the covers you used (not sure what color yet!)

will the threaded rod and covers really cost around $20?

If this would have been my own $150 to start, it wouldn't have been the airtronics setup, but I know I couldn't get my parents to buy anything used

and really, for a start up rx/tx/esc/servo, I figured it was a good deal

BrandO · 12-13-2006, 07:29 PM

For a servo go to Ebay. Do a search for mg995. It is a Tower pro servo. They work good with plenty of torque. And you can not beat the price. I would buy from someone in the USA. Otherwise you are going to wait for a while to get it.

12-12-2006, 08:15 PM	#1
gopher Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: the creek Posts: 396	$60 to spend... Stock TLT... I want to build a crawler obviously, but it will be slow going. I definately want to stretch it first and have a graupner 600 right now for a motor. I figured I could do my own stretch kit for around $15-20? so that won't be included in the $60 should I go lathe motor? tires/wheels? I'm not really sure. The servo is a weak airtronics that comes standard with the blazer setup. I would just like something to run for now, crawl in spring Unless you think for $60 I could really make it worth while.

12-13-2006, 08:50 AM	#10
Big Mike I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Martinsburg WV Posts: 2,781	It's easy to make new links and stretch your wheelbase, the problem is matching driveshafts to the new configuration. You can try to make things the proper length for an off-the-shelf dogbone, but my opinion is that it's easier to come up with a suspension config. that works first, then match a custom dogbone to it. I've changed my suspension 3 times now, every time the driveshaft "shrinkage" during suspension articulation was only like 1/8"-3/16". So I've stuck with the stock drive cups and dogbones and have'nt tried to set up sliders yet. This is how I made my last set of dogbones when I altered my suspension last time around: When you are press-fitting them together, you just have to be careful about not pressing the assembly too far together. Length is critical - too short and it will fall out, too long and it will make your suspension bind up. Once the thread lock has dried hard, you can take them to the grinder and carefully taper the aluminum to meet the dogbone shaft for maximum clearance. I've been running dogbones made like this for a couple weeks now w/ no issues... Last edited by Big Mike; 12-13-2006 at 08:54 AM.

12-12-2006, 08:22 PM	#2
ToyotaKing88 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Tennessee Posts: 160	what esc are you running if it is a good one go with a motor try an axiom 55t

12-12-2006, 09:04 PM	#3
gopher Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: the creek Posts: 396	hrm... it isn't all that good, but good enough BL-Racer or somethign like that. My parents got me the tlt kit from ultimate hobbies with an airtronics rx/tx/esc/servo to get started. I know the servo is weak, but good to mess around with. I figure in spring I'll drop $40 for a better servo (will never be able to spend >100 on the real nice ones). I am so unsure, some of the steps seem like you should do em at same time... pede tranny + driveshafts (obvious) and longer links? I guess I can make my own links and do the rollpin thing to do a quick extension?

12-12-2006, 10:10 PM	#4
twisted I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 2,386	i would do some searching for used items. you gonna need a pede tranny and they run rite around 50-60. less for a used one on ebay. stock tranny is a no go. bearings,chassis.list is endless.

12-12-2006, 10:15 PM	#5
roadblock Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: SW Charlotte Posts: 137	wheels and tires & lathe OR used pede and lathe then stretch it out. i'd go with the used pede and lathe u can usually find a lathe and pede cheaper if u look around and by it off someone also dont forget the LHS ;) dont forget u can get a few bucks for extra tlt parts on ebay

12-13-2006, 04:40 AM	#6
gasshead Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: High Point Posts: 188	you can get a pede from bbyracing, they charge 45 and they are new...if you only have 65 bucks, i would get the trans, driveshafts, and a better servo...you can mod the stock chassis to run the pede trans. you can upgrade to a better chassis and tires, ect. as you get money, it dont take alot of money to have a capable crawler...in the neighbor hood of 150 to 250 bucks will get the bare minimum to have a good copmeter at the comps

12-13-2006, 05:18 AM	#7
emaxxjeremy RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: HELL..... Posts: 1,576	ya you could find a 645 or similar used for under $20 probably

12-13-2006, 07:32 AM	#8
gopher Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: the creek Posts: 396	thanks for all the input all! ya, I won't be in competitions for some time, our club has only really started them and mainly meet just to run, of course, I haven't gone to anything yet since I don't have a crawler. I will most likely just be driving over toy obstacles in the house that my son will set-up (3yr old) for awhile.

12-13-2006, 08:14 AM	#9
Big Mike I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Martinsburg WV Posts: 2,781	You have 60 bucks to drop on top of a stock TLT, is that what you mean? Spend it on 1/4" aluminum rod or tubing, long set screws, permanent loc-tite, maybe some beefier rod ends. I had not had an rc car for about 15 years until I stumbled across a crawler for sale on Ebay, seeing that led me to Googling "rc rock crawler" and that led me here. In no time I knew I had to build one. Being on a budget I went with a TLT. Made my own links to stretch the wheelbase keeping the stock link points. Moved the shocks to the axle and ditched the canti's. By sheer luck found some dogbones (RST) that fit my new configuration. Started driving it, and was impressed with what it could do. But that is the point where you have to be careful. That's when I started noticing things that were hampering the performance, and started wanting to change things. Like moving the lower link mounts off of the bottom of the axle, etc. And unfortunately, changing things usually means spending money. The stock wheels and tires just blow, they got ditched for some RC4WD beadlocks and HPI Geolanders. Stock shocks don't cut it, and there are no replacement springs available, so they got swapped for 4 blue anodized Hot Bodies T/E Maxx units. That started me buying every blue anodized nut and bolt I could lay my hands on. Now my chassis is loaded with them. Regular old plastic-geared low-torque servos just don't make the nut for serious crawling. I blew up a pair of Futaba 2003's in short order, nessecitating a purchase of a pair of JR Racing Z590M's. 85 oz. and metal gears should get me by for a while until I can afford some robot servos. The better you make things look and perform, the more the sickness will overwhelm you. Be careful!

12-13-2006, 09:23 AM	#11
gopher Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: the creek Posts: 396	thanks for the drawing, I will definately look into that, I would make the dogbones first and then adjust the links to match I went to bbyracing and saw they have the pede tranny and integy motor for a total of $70... I could probably sneak that through , but I'm sure I would need more to make it all work

12-13-2006, 11:22 AM	#12
Big Mike I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Martinsburg WV Posts: 2,781	No way dude - make your links first, then make the dogbones to match. That way you are making 4 links first and only having to make 1 dogbone to match - vs. making 1 dogbone first, then having to match 4 link lengths to match that. If you make the dogbones last you only have 1 critical measurement, vs. at least 2 if not 4 critical measurements by doing the links last, see what I mean?

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12-13-2006, 01:17 PM	#13
gopher Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: the creek Posts: 396	ah, guess I figured they would all be "critical" since I need to make sure all four top are the same and all four bottom are the same (50/50 stance)?

12-13-2006, 02:47 PM	#14
SammyXp Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Winston-Salem Posts: 200	Dude, if you still have the stock tires - that would be the very first thing I would do! $30 for tires. $10-$15 for wheels. $20 or so to stretch it. $2 for a 3" long 3/16" roll pin to stretch your stock dogbones. The stock tranny is weak, but for climbing over obstacles in the hosue for your 3 year old - it will be find for a while. I ran the stock belt drive trans and extended dogbones for a long time until I started doing more aggressive crawling. Here's a pic of a drive shaft extended with the roll pin. Just cut the driveshaft in half, hammer each end into the roll pin, and presto - custom length driveshaft. The picture shows a stealth trans, but the dogbones work with the stock trans just as easily.

12-13-2006, 06:57 PM	#15
gopher Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: the creek Posts: 396	thanks for the comment sammy, I agree, I have heard a lot, I guess the only thing I am truly worried about wheels and tires is the servo can only push 50oz I think. I really like your build and I was looking at that to do a lot of things! I love the chassis you did using the shock towers... and i'll definately use threaded rod and the covers you used (not sure what color yet!) will the threaded rod and covers really cost around $20? If this would have been my own $150 to start, it wouldn't have been the airtronics setup, but I know I couldn't get my parents to buy anything used and really, for a start up rx/tx/esc/servo, I figured it was a good deal

12-13-2006, 07:29 PM	#16
BrandO Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 560	For a servo go to Ebay. Do a search for mg995. It is a Tower pro servo. They work good with plenty of torque. And you can not beat the price. I would buy from someone in the USA. Otherwise you are going to wait for a while to get it.

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