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Old 02-28-2007, 08:48 PM   #1
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Default Crawler Mock Up

My fully functional mock up of my crawler, i'm getting a new body, adding some Pahnard Bars (is that what you call them?), stripping the c channel and polishing it. Oh and cleaining up the wiring, and a new servo :P I got a lot to do, what do you think? Sorry for the really crappy pics

No I didn't steal a stop sign for metal






The body is just a hackjob to see how low I could get it



And the mandatory flex shots:


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Old 02-28-2007, 08:56 PM   #2
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uhhh the 1970's called- it wants its carpet back.

looks like a good start.
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Old 02-28-2007, 08:58 PM   #3
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That carpet is shaggy-delic babbyy.

Looks like a good start!
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Old 02-28-2007, 08:59 PM   #4
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not bad at all
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Old 02-28-2007, 09:08 PM   #5
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You think that carpet is bad you should see the stuff on the wall

Thanks guys, any suggestions?
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Old 02-28-2007, 09:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CustomFabber13
Thanks guys, any suggestions?
kill your decorator.
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Old 02-28-2007, 10:08 PM   #7
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Well, took it out for a little crawl (on my sub box) and the esc dies as soon as there is load on the wheels. Help?
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Old 02-28-2007, 10:10 PM   #8
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What esc? It may have some weird torque control deal!
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Old 02-28-2007, 10:12 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CustomFabber13
Well, took it out for a little crawl (on my sub box) and the esc dies as soon as there is load on the wheels. Help?
for starters.. give us the details on what you are running.

esc, battery, motor?

does anyone of the above get extremely warm or hot?
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Old 02-28-2007, 10:27 PM   #10
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ESC is a Duratrax Sprint, motor is a 65T lathe, and the batteries are 4 1200 mah AA's in a mini T holder. Nothing gets hot, but the staus light on the ESC goes out and it stops getting power. The servo still works, and it is getting a signal.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAMN7&P=C

That ESC, but the case was broken in a crash with my old evader. It is repaired with lexan and electrical tape, and worked fine in the Evader for almost 6 months until I stole it for the crawler
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Old 02-28-2007, 10:29 PM   #11
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You need a different pack for sure. That might be your problem!
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Old 02-28-2007, 10:34 PM   #12
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I guess thats only 5 volts isnt it? 1.25 per cell? I'll strap a stick pack on it sometime and giver a shot
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Old 02-28-2007, 10:35 PM   #13
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1.5 volts=one AA so
4x1.5= 6v.

What other packs you got?
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Old 02-28-2007, 11:44 PM   #14
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Just some 7.2 stick packs and a couple 6 cell mini T packs. And I always thought that AA nicads were 1.25 volts a pop and alkalines were 1.5?

I am going to make a stick pack mount, I got it all bent up tonight, just need to get it cut and bored this weekend. And a tranny brace/skid out of some puckboard (what hockey arena boards are made of) because when I ran it with the body off the tranny twisted about 1/2" or more.
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Old 03-01-2007, 07:45 AM   #15
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Oh I was thinking deposible AAs, not rechargeable. In that case im not sure I dont run em.
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Old 03-01-2007, 07:14 PM   #16
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Hey did u make that cane set up chassis or did u buy it because i bought two of the last tlt-1's at my hobby store and i want to build one of those chassis and a BMVII chassis?
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Old 03-01-2007, 08:23 PM   #17
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I built it out of a piece of steel c channel and a couple flat pieces of aluminium.
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Old 03-01-2007, 10:39 PM   #18
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Some new pics, I rearanged it for the stick pack and pics from my little test crawl.



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