Test out your CVD's this weekend? Share the results.

[Fox]

I got my CVD's in the mail on Saturday and installed them last night.

I took them out for a battery pack or two and didn't break anything... I did have one of the nuts back out that holds the wheel on but other than that everything worked fine. I guess they do what they are supposed to do.. I can't say I am all that happy with the price though.

I have a few photos of the install i will post up soon.

Anyone else love or hate them?

[scuzzy51]

is there a big steering difference??

[Cloak]

Originally Posted by scuzzy51

is there a big steering difference??

I have to say of all things about them, I was disappointed with the steering. I might have to recheck and regrind down some metal, but all things being exactly equal, my ground down cups gave me more turning than the CVDs. I was very suprised to have lost steering on my tuber after the change over.

Edit: I just looked at it again and one thing that was limiting my steering is that the cross bar was hitting the pumpkin in the front. I changed that and I'm back to the steering I had before. I'm still thinking I'm going to grind down the metal knuckles and see if I can get more steering out of it. Right now that's probably what is causing me to not have more range of motion.

[Krawler Freak]

Quote:
Originally Posted by scuzzy51
is there a big steering difference??

Originally Posted by Cloak

I have to say of all things about them, I was disappointed with the steering. I might have to recheck and regrind down some metal, but all things being exactly equal, my ground down cups gave me more turning than the CVDs. I was very suprised to have lost steering on my tuber after the change over.

Scuzzy51 I have a set of CVD's and cant have anything but good to say about them, they are stronger, tougher, and give me tons of steering, in order to optimize their steering potential you have to grind away at the stop one the outside of the axle and then they really shine in performance.

[RXcrawler]

I had the cups ground down as much as possible with out the dogbone poping out of them while turning. Installed the CVD's and now have a TON more steering. No comparison.

[Wrecker]

Originally Posted by Cloak

I have to say of all things about them, I was disappointed with the steering. I might have to recheck and regrind down some metal, but all things being exactly equal, my ground down cups gave me more turning than the CVDs. I was very suprised to have lost steering on my tuber after the change over.

Edit: I just looked at it again and one thing that was limiting my steering is that the cross bar was hitting the pumpkin in the front. I changed that and I'm back to the steering I had before. I'm still thinking I'm going to grind down the metal knuckles and see if I can get more steering out of it. Right now that's probably what is causing me to not have more range of motion.

You should definitely be getting more steering. We compared Tmyjeepers cvd's to my extremely ground cups and axles (dogbones are actually coming out of the cups) this weekend and the cvd's whooped my arse. We both drove in a complete circle and the cvd's overall diameter that it turned in was probably 18" smaller than the diameter of the circle I drove in. Very noticeably sharper turning for sure.

[Cloak]

Originally Posted by wrecker

You should definitely be getting more steering. We compared Tmyjeepers cvd's to my extremely ground cups and axles (dogbones are actually coming out of the cups) this weekend and the cvd's whooped my arse. We both drove in a complete circle and the cvd's overall diameter that it turned in was probably 15-18" smaller than the diameter of the circle I drove in. Very noticeably sharper turning for sure.

That's what I was thinking should be the case, given previous pictures I've seen. Before (pre-cvds) I was physically unable to get any more turning radius out of my truck. I had ground down the entire sideways "t" and some of the plastic arms. I put the truck together and didn't notice an increase in turning.

Therefore I went ahead and tore it all down again and put my metal axle Cs. I'm seeing even less turning now (physical limitation of the metal on metal contact, not the cvds). I will probably take a grinding bit to the inside of the metal knuckles to try and get back the turning.

Hrm, now as I type this up, I'm going to have to check which hole I have my front linkage in. I might be on the inside, which would explain some of the lack or turning right now.

Edit: Ok, went out and did some grinding and also sure enough, the inside hole is what I used before. Now that it is on the outside it is getting more swing than what I had before. Infact I might have to go and use wideners because of it now.

[Rckcrwlr]

I gained about a 1/2" more steering left and right. They are bulletproof too. Locked front right tire.




Old days it would have snapped. Now I will see where the next weak point is.

Thanks Brian

[Rockpiledriver]

Thanks guys!

As has been pointed out in this thread, in order to see the full steering potential of these some serious grinding is necessary. You will need to grind both the housings, and the knuckles. You will also need to run a stock, un-sleeved TLT tierod or the equivalent, and be sure it is in the outer set of holes in the knuckle.

[Cloak]

Originally Posted by Rockpiledriver

Thanks guys!

As has been pointed out in this thread, in order to see the full steering potential of these some serious grinding is necessary. You will need to grind both the housings, and the knuckles. You will also need to run a stock, un-sleeved TLT tierod or the equivalent, and be sure it is in the outer set of holes in the knuckle.

If you do sleeve it, you can put spacers so it goes above the front of the pumpkin.

[EeePee]

A ton more steering throw.

Ground down the plastic knuckle, some of the plastic axle, and used the stock tie rod, and bent it a little bit and used a longer servo horn. Then max out the steering rate, and then set the EPAs on the radio. Tons more throw.

And it looks funny going around corners on concrete as sharp as it can. Has a nice lockered up bounce to it.

[Thorsteenster]

LOL, good god, front and rear cvd 4ws must be some on the dime type turns!

[Cole82]

Originally Posted by EeePee

A ton more steering throw.

Ground down the plastic knuckle, some of the plastic axle, and used the stock tie rod, and bent it a little bit and used a longer servo horn. Then max out the steering rate, and then set the EPAs on the radio. Tons more throw.

And it looks funny going around corners on concrete as sharp as it can. Has a nice lockered up bounce to it.

That must be the only clean corner in your house.
Honestly that's only slightly more than ground. I'll still buy them for the strength though.

........Inspired TORSION STICK...........

[EeePee]

Actually, that's the cleanest corner in your mom's house!

Will your knuckle go this far?

[Cole82]

Originally Posted by EeePee

Actually, that's the cleanest corner in your mom's house!

Will your knuckle go this far?

Yes, mine hits the case in the exact same spot.
I'll post a pic if I can find that damn SD card. It must have left it in your mom's bedroom.

[EeePee]

Well then I'll have to make mine go farther.

[Rockpiledriver]

Originally Posted by EeePee

Will your knuckle go this far?

Not without the inner axle itself getting into the slot in the wheel axle causing binding and ultimately breakage. Also, when you turn a stocker that far one of the cross pins on the inner is completely outside of the cup at 2 points during rotation, leaving only 1/2 of the pin driving the wheel. As if the stockers were not weak enough.

[Cole82]

I found it. Here I snapped a couple quik pics.
You have to rebevel the cup. You can't just grind the end off.

You can't go any further than what I have on mine. The knuckle arm hits the bearing. I ground the plastic axle away. Now the arm hit's the bearing. The only way to go further is to get different knuckles made.

[Cole82]

Originally Posted by Rockpiledriver

Not without the inner axle itself getting into the slot in the wheel axle causing binding and ultimately breakage. Also, when you turn a stocker that far one of the cross pins on the inner is completely outside of the cup at 2 points during rotation, leaving only 1/2 of the pin driving the wheel. As if the stockers were not weak enough.

The pin only comes half way out of the cup. It never fully comes out. So you still have both pins driving the cup.That means you ground to much off.

[EeePee]

Mine's way farther!

Look where my screw holding the tierod is compared to the axle housing, compared to yours. I'm laying the knuckle right on the ground up axle.

You suck at turning!