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Old 06-28-2005, 11:06 AM   #61
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i run the all t's with my tsc-10 and have no problem with rub.
I also run the ofna off set wheels so that might help.
I also noticed that he runs wheel spacers so there should be no trouble.
I began with a set a claw dawgs then pullers now all'ts and they seem to work the best.

Could we get more articulation with a link mount over the servo then either run a 3 or 4 link thats triangulated from narrow at the axle and wide at the chassis?

Been planning on building the link mount just have'nt got around to it.
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Old 06-28-2005, 12:22 PM   #62
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Good to hear the All-T's can work. I don't know if a over the servo link mount would help with articulation. I know that 86ss1 has a link setup like that. Try contacting him about how its setup or search for his posts here and you could score some pics I am sure.

I actually just stopped running my TSC-10.... for... cough, reasons I got a little something up my sleeve.
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Old 06-28-2005, 01:00 PM   #63
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I do have the wheel wideners and I have not modified my axels for more steering soooo I think I could run those without breaking anything... I really like the way they look and it looks like they have a ton of grip.

PWT could you tell me what links you had designed the chassis to use. my wheelbase is 13.5" right now and if I went to the inside holes it would be 13" still. and my links are as short as I can make them.

what do you think the impact would be if I drilled more holes that were further in to the center of the cahssis to get my links to make a 12" wheel base?

I don;t have my truck with me so I cannot look right now
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Old 06-28-2005, 01:44 PM   #64
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I don't know if you could drill further back unless you're willing to hack up bits of the stampede tranny. I don't think you'd lose any strength in the frame, its just the pede tranny getting in the way, so you'd have to cut the wings that the rustler suspension arms attach to.

The links should be the 96/106 traxxas tmaxx links. When I measured mine they were 106 and 116 eyelet to eyelet.
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Old 06-28-2005, 02:59 PM   #65
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Thanks PWT :-)

I'll just order those links


how many TSC guys have whooped BULU dudes?
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Old 09-01-2006, 01:38 PM   #66
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UPDATE

I am now running an RBX chassis that 1beatjeep and his son helped me setup. I am also running a Outrunner Brushless motor from John Holmes RC called "the Revolver" coupled to a Mamba 25 ESC.

I will post pics on Tuesday. Man my machine has gone through quite a few revisions.
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Old 09-01-2006, 01:49 PM   #67
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Talking pics

these pics are before the Revolver install

http://holmeshobbies.com/home.php







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Old 09-01-2006, 02:17 PM   #68
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Well, I'm significantly surprised over the progress, at first it seemed like you were a bit stubborn to change anything on your high rise Tamiya crawler, but it seems like now you've got down what works and doesn't.

Toss that radioshack battery, that won't get you anywhere.

Questions:
Wheelbase right now? looks short or 50/50 maybe?
I was under the impression/ have tried it before, that you simply cannot run dual servos[645MG] off of an XRS with 6-7 cells. How are you doing this?
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Old 09-01-2006, 02:23 PM   #69
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Thanks USA.

yeah it has been a journey. I have learned a TON about crawling since I have first posted. lots of people have really helped me a long the way.

LOL yeah RadioShack battery has been gone for a long time now hehe.

wheel base is 60/40, I will have to measure it tonight..

LOL yeah I dunno,, the XRS worked fine with dual servos and a 6S pack. although I did not like the throttle resolution. hehe I now have a Holmes Hobbies Revolver in it with a Mamba 25 esc.
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Old 09-11-2006, 01:52 PM   #70
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ok I am having very bad binding issues and need some advice

the stock steering knuckles are causing a serious load for the motor. when I remove the lower pivot screws the bind goes away and everything is super smooth, when I put the 2nd pivot screw in it cause a sever side load on the axle.

it obviously is that the holes in the knuckes are not straight or something because with only 1 picot screw in it is fine but it takes some force to be applied just to get the 2nd hole to line up so the 2nd screw can be installed... this is very weird, I tried the knuckles on all 4 corners swaping them no change,

My first idea was to ditch them and go with alloy knuckles
I cannot find any,, do they exist ?

option 2: drill out axeld knuckel through holes to larger diameter.. this will work but also make it sloppy.

any ideas ? has this been talked about before and just burried in Forum never never land ?
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Old 09-11-2006, 05:27 PM   #71
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I think it has come a long way too - great work so far.

Last edited by JakeSpeed; 09-11-2006 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 09-11-2006, 05:37 PM   #72
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When I first built my TLT this happened, but switching them left to right cured it.
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Old 09-12-2006, 12:13 AM   #73
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[quote=SuperDave420]ok I am having very bad binding issues and need some advice

My first idea was to ditch them and go with alloy knuckles
I cannot find any,, do they exist ?


ok just my 2 pennys but get rid of the stock knuckles and get the alloy ones there still around just gotta search 4'um but i had the same thing happen to mines and that was the cure night and day differance btw sweet truck
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Old 09-12-2006, 08:44 AM   #74
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ok cool,

I'll go with alloy knuckles, I did try swaping them left and right, no help. It may be that I have 4 left knuckles. dunno.


I am using a 1/10 sclae dodge dakota body. it is a 60/40 wheel base

and I am now running the Holmes Hobbies Revolver Brushless outrunner/mamba 25 combo. the extra drag currently in the axles is overheating and shutting the mamba down.. :-(

Thanks for the coments about the progress, this is a learning experience for me as my specialty is RC helicopters, I have about 22 of them and also am designing some for E-copter.com. this Crawling stuff is a lot of fun and I am glad I got into it.

I felt it would be good to have a long single thread so that the progress form newb to compitant crawler can be seen.

David
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Old 09-12-2006, 07:01 PM   #75
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truck is looking good.
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Old 11-06-2006, 02:29 PM   #76
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Thumbs up 95% completed form 56K--no way

Well here it is in all it's glory/.

the Beadlockers are from a Friend of 1beatjeep. not sure who it is or how much they cost. but they are sweeet. machined offset so no wideners anymore are needed. I do realise I need to put some foams in the tires now that I have the weight of the truck on them.... tires collapse too much.

this Revolver had MAD TORQUE. I need a brace for the tranny to motor to fight the flex as I now have a slipper-eliminator kit installed and have lost 2 gears.

is there a brace on the market I can buy for the motor-tranny ? to keep it from flexing the gear mesh ?

notice the new C-hubs :-) another thing from a friend of 1beetjeep.

anyway here are the pics, this thing crawls over everything I can throw at it. now my Rig is set, I just need to practice me driving skills. lolol

So a lot of credit goes to 1beetjeep and his son for all their help transforming my lil rig.








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Old 11-06-2006, 02:33 PM   #77
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Looks purdy!
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Old 11-06-2006, 06:28 PM   #78
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Looks real nice! Body looks sweet clear, are you going to paint it or leave it as is?
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Old 11-07-2006, 09:34 AM   #79
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Thanks :-) yep gonna leave the body clear, I like it that way.

I want to put some lights on it next.
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Old 11-07-2006, 09:49 AM   #80
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i like the clear body, looks sweet. I would recomend running the slipper clutch with the revolver, that motor is always going to break something before it gives up. At least with the slipper it will start to slip just before something breaks or strips out and you can keep on crawling instead of constantly fixing something.
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